A new mountainbike that is at least slightly useful for mountainbiking, will cost more than 300€. I would say it starts around 1000€.
If you only plan to ride in the city or unpaved dirt roads then any normal bike will work. Anything more wild will quickly destroy a 300€ MTB. (spokes and rims snap; brakes are too weak; heavy weight; cranks, seat post, handlebars or even frame can break)
Basically all brands sells bikes in all price and quality ranges.
There are 3 or 4 relevant producers of components and frames mostly come from a handful of factories too.
Cheap bikes tend to have lots of flashy features that appear impressive but none of it is good quality. For example cheap suspensions are heavy, develop play/wiggle and are non-serviceable. Adjusting cheap no-name brakes or shifting is frustrating.
With that budget I suggest to look at used bikes. You can get a nice mountainbike from 1980s to 2000s plus replacement parts for that price.
Certain models and brands are more sought after by collectors because they are considered "classics" so you would basically pay for the name.
Giant bikes are imo good quality but without the cult-factor that drives up the price. If you want to avoid fixing a bike yourself then some shops also sell fixed-up old bikes. In Germany there exists "bicycle flea markets" where people sell their bicycles and the organizers provide some experts that buyers can talk to. Maybe that exists in France too?
All three situations do happen.
In this case I believe it was this automatic check: https://www.lfs.net/forum/thread/106757
I think the authors do get a note about it so they can update/fix their mods.
I thought about these situations too, when I first tried a stick shifter. There is no good way to program it because it is a hardware limitation: The shifter can not "hold" the stick in position like in a real car.
The alternative would be that virtual stick and real stick go out of sync.
I do not like that either. Fanatec does the same thing, their shifter only works when connected to a wheel-base. Depending which wheel you use, you need the right adapter.
The Logitech shifter can be used stand-alone with a small Arduino project:
If you copy the URLs directly into browser then it says: "This content is no longer available."
The pictures were linked to discord but are no longer hosted there.
Discord is not reliable for image hosting, just attach to forum directly.
Shifting into neutral does not strictly require clutch.
The only maybe relevant tool I know of is Dxtweak.
It is popular for tweaking game controllers, setting deadzones etc. No idea if it is useful for this particular problem.
I think Track Editor is not planned anytime soon or at all.
There was a screenshot that showed the editor but with an explanation that it is only usable for internal use.
I do not remember any posts about dynamic weather or rain.
Day/Night cycle is planned but iirc no weather.
By my reading, LFS is currently developed in two separate versions.
One version with the big changes, and one version that we are currently playing. Both get developed in parallel.
Sometimes changes from the "new" version seem to bleed over into the "public" version, for example the moving subojects. (pop-up headlights etc) or changes to dust effect. However the big plan is to combine into one version.
That version includes changes like:
-new tire physics
-new graphics systems:
--less stutter, especially in VR, by better syncing physics and graphics updates at 1000Hz (or something like that)
--day/night, dynamic lights
-new objects (signs with editable letters, more chalk marks, curbs etc)
Other updates in progress are:
-overhaul existing tracks
-larger area for South City
-two new tracks (Airfield Racetrack & Testing Ground)
-higher resolution for analog input
With the new animation system, is it possible to have the cardan shaft spin depending on engine RPM?
It is quite visible in that truck so might be a good experiment.
In the Finished Skins subforum, the posts do not have the REACT button. (to add smilies) https://www.lfs.net/forum/67-Finished-skins
As far as I looked, it is only missing in that forum.
I went from mouse to Logitech Momo (240°) to G27 and had similar problems to adjust. Always it seemed too slow to steer, at first.
With the G27 I used what degrees whatever numbers it showed in pit menu, it is different between cars.
I downloaded some "Figure 8" layout with cones from the forum and just slowly drove around that to get used to the feel. That seemed to help. Eventually I noticed that actually it was not necessary to turn the wheel quite as fast and much as I thought. Afterall in a real car one can not go lock-to-lock in one second either.
Also try with default cars first. Some mod cars have bit weird FFB because their suspensions are whacky.
Do real race cars purposely use clutches with more narrow bite points? Maybe for faster gear changes?
I have very briefly driven two "race cars", prepared for slalom by friends of a friend. (cars purely for track usage, with rollcages and all that)
One was a Ford Kadett C and the other a BMW. We all had some difficulty when slowly rolling to the start line. Very bumpy or even stalling.
Animation No 2 is more visible but I think the brushes do not move like that in real life?
As far as I have see, the arms only move to better follow the gutter or to get around obstacles.
Maybe there is an extra wiggle-mode if a specific spot needs to be cleaned (like oil spill or glass?) but I have never seen a sweeper operate like that.
But it looks funny so both animations are okay for me.
Maybe some colore elements like this would make the rotation even more visible?
The front pillars of the cockpit seem quite thick.
Usually in such vehicles they are as thin as possible to provide best visibility, also to the sides. (Compare to Flame's picture)
I looked at aftermarket pit limiters that I found in random shops on the internet.
None of those mentioned the use of brakes, all just limit throttle position or engine RPM.
For professional motorsport I found nothing clear in any rules, however several websites say something like "The limiter only prevents the car accelerating beyond that speed once it's already below it."
I think tweaking the control loop does not solve this.
The car can only slown down at a certain rate from friction etc.
If the acceleration from a slope or wind (or spinning tires suddenly gaining grip) exceeds that rate then there is nothing that the system can do, no matter how fast or soon it closes the throttle.
Only a larger safety margin would help for some situations. (limit to 78km/h instead of 79.xx or whatever)
If the downward slope is long and steep enough then some vehicles might always exceed the speed limit.
random fun fact from F1 rulebook:
With some cars in LFS it is popular to adjust the 1st gear ratio so that it will reach a topspeed just under the speed limit. (79.9 km/h)
According to real life F1 rules that trick would be illegal.