nope, didn't work . Its a general problem with the throttle, not just LFS.

Hi all! well, unfortunately, my throttle started spiking today . As I press the pedal halfway, it starts going nuts. I've tried reinstalling the drivers, recalibrating the wheel in LFS, tried it in other sims but the problem is still there. I wanted to ask if there is any way I can fix this?

Thanks!

I've attached a replay with the problem.

Mods, please delete this thread. I've found the correct term for my problem.

*bump* please! anyone? I'm seriously worried that theres something wrong with the pedal

Hi all! well, I have a problem with my pedals . I have this weird problem where at a certain point, the throttle keeps flickering. With the brakes and clutch held at the same point, they don't flicker but the throttle does. I use the throttle very smoothly so I don't stomp it so can anyone tell me how to fix this?

I've tried recalibrating it, restarting my PC, disconnecting the wheel and reconnecting it and tried it in rFactor, all the same still .

I'm using a G25.

I've attached a replay with the problem.

Personality test.

"Ah Red, you said Ferrari, and this is someone that you really love. (is this your partner !!!)"

LOL! so true

Air stewardess? hmm... . Well, if it allows me to get up and close with one of them, why the hell not?

R.I.P Ayrton & Roland. I miss you both very much .

My condolences to their families and friends.

I think I found the problem. NkP doesn't record replays that are only 2 laps long (2 laps over 1 run that is) so I've added a bit more fuel to allow me to do 3 laps and it worked. My replay time is 0.05 off my PB but I'm happy with it

Just out of interest, does anybody here get an illegal operation error when you click setup in the game menu? because everytime I click on it, it gives me an error

Last edited by Leprekaun, Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:26.

Right, if there is to be one thing that truly ticks me off about this is the bloody replay system! I just got a PB twice (1:43.164 and just now 1:42.993) but when I click to Save last replay, it records just most of my outlap and thats it . Any trick to this?

@Moose: Where'd you get the Toyota skin btw?

About the 7th-1st gear thing, F1 cars had engine brake aids in 06 and 07 to prevent the wheels from locking but along with TC, it was banned this year so if Stefano is basing his F1 car on 08, theres certainly something new there .

Well, at the end of the day, none of us can determine which is the most realistic F1 simulator since none of us has driven an F1 car in real life but what I'm saying is try to shift down from 7th to 1st very quickly in NkP (the SingTel sim) and watch how the car reacts, do you call that a realistic slide? If the car responds the way it does when that happens, then you can pretty much know how Stefano thinks an F1 car handles and most probably, most of the other things in the physics are wrong.

Perhaps, until now, to be fair to the LFS devs, the BF1 is probably the most realistic as its placed between being a snappy and predictable car which F1 cars these days seem to be but even a crazy sim like F1 07 could've got it right

Hi all! well, I was just interested to see what you guys do to convert a hotlap/quali set to a race set. Personally, I have very limited setup knowledge so I tend to only change tyre compound (R2s -> R3s), make the pressures a little higher and add between +1 - +1.5 on camber. I was told that softening suspension can help out a lot but for me, they never made a difference , the tyre temp was still the same with a worse handling car .

So what parts of the car do you adjust to make it more suited for a long distance race?

Yeah, I want to start experimenting with the diff. I've noticed that a lot of Storm_Cloud's setups have that power thing you're talking about but more like the revs lock for a bit and then it slides. I think using a looser coast setting will most likely give me the results I'm lookin for.

Quote from Jertje :

I couldn't find this on the forums, so I'll just make a new thread on what to get me for my birthday ():

http://www.amalgamcollection.c ... ist_type=&list_value=

For that price, do you reckon it's actually carbon fibre?

Could it be converted into replacing a PC steering wheel? . Would be seriously cool to have something like for a wheel . Personally, I would prefer the Ferrari but having a Mclaren one is better than nothing

Quote from The Moose :

Oh, the irony.

come on, you got to admit that MMG F1 2007's physics are definitely better than that of NkPro .

Well, played it today for a bit. Got a 1:45.861 if thats any good.

Have to say, physics are appalling and theres no feeling from the brakes. They basically start to properly function when you have the brake pedal at 80%-90%. Second thing is that if you shift down like mad from 7th to 2nd, the rears don't lock AT ALL but once you go to 1st, it decides to lock and then when it does, its not exactly an instant spin, no, it just does a tiny skid which is completely controllable.

Was considering buying NkPro soon but after trying out this, its disastrous!. I'll just wait for someone to convert it to rFactor and play MMG F1 2007 with it

Team Name: Dynamic Racing
Car Number: 16
Drivers:
T. Mohamed (leprekaun) IRL
C. Fox (dj-fluxsa) IRL
J. Simek (Kdovi) CZE
I. Metcalfe (STROBE) GBR

Last edited by Leprekaun, Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:33.

Thanks for the tips guys! . Also, a special thanks to Bob for VHPA as I was able to grasp where the most understeer exists and tweak it. The odd thing is that my anti roll bar settings were 55 Rear and 80.2 Front. This would obviously cause some sort of understeer due to the front being stiffer than the rear (corner entry) but thing is, I kept bringing it down till, according to the graph of understeer/oversteer, I got it to neutral which is 55 Rear and 36.2 Front but even though that the suspension settings are set to neutral, the tyres and downforce set to slight understeer, I actually felt oversteer in the setup, not neutral or slight understeer so found that a bit odd.

In the end, with the new front ARB, I did get the fronts and rears balanced but the car is very pointy and the car skids quite easily in T2. Even though this corner is flat out, when I'm doing around 260 Kmh and then I start to lose the rear end, its seriously scary. I haven't spun once and was able to bring the car back. I then found a way to only turn a little bit as not to amplify the effect of the Front ARB but still, feels edgy.

I suppose increasing +1 rear wing or softer rear ARB would help a lot but thing is, I love the way it handles in all the other corners but its just T2 where it gets a bit hairy.

The safest option as you said is most probably just live with the understeer for a while till you can get in the tyre cooling zone but I just hate understeer, really do but if its for the best interest of my race then I'll do it.

Hi all! well, I've been going nuts about how the FO8 fries the fronts whilst the rears are just below opt. temp (Using R3s, fronts reach up to 105-110 and rears 95-100). Basically, theres always a difference of about 5-10 degrees between the fronts and the rears. I've noticed that a lot of people mix compounds (R3s Front, R2s Rear / R4s Front, R3s Rear) but I'm kind of hoping to avoid that and just use R3s all over or just for the sake of sticking with the same tyre grip for fronts and rears to have the temps balanced.

I've tried softening the car in general (softening spring stiffness by 10 N/ms, Dampers by 1 and Roll bars by 10)... that didn't work. I then left the suspension settings as they were except for the front end in which I softened in general (front spring stiffness -10, Dampers -1, Roll bars -10) but still, the bloody thing won't get it!

I can be open to the idea that maybe I'm asking too much of the car but this is a rare case for me as when I drive the other single seaters or other cars in general, I can easily adjust the setup or don't even have to sometimes to keep the fronts and rears at a balanced temp.

So what can I do to make it so that either the fronts are slightly cooler than the rears or both at optimum?

Thanks!

NOTE: I'm using Unknown's Westhill set at Westhill.

For me, definitely FZR because of the inconsistency of the balance of grip. It pitches forward and back a lot more than the other 2 so I find it difficult to balance the car properly between entering a corner and exiting. With the XRR or FXR, I can easily throttle steer it out but with most setups that I've driven with the FZR is that it seems the idea is to go into the corners fast to maximise front end grip when its pitched forward and then wait patiently to put in throttle input.

Although, that said, there have been setups which defy this logic but only a bit, the car still pitches back and forth quite a lot but Jet's BL1 set (Patch X) is quite good.

Quote from Hankstar :

Think this is sto0pid, check his other posts. Entertaining reading

No thanks, I like saving my time for racing

Quote from Jordan2007 :

My Mum hates dogs.. Im mostly getting it for me

Not that I'm going to bother suggesting a hiding spot for a dog because frankly, I see this post utterly ridicolous but I'm compelled to say that thats not a nice thing to do. If your mum hates dogs, get her something that she likes and that'll she use.

It was going to be 4 stages? oh man! , why did Scawen change it to 3?

I have a serious complex problem with odd numbers when it comes to game development