Cheers Luke but about the motherboard, I noticed that the Phenom II isn't listed as one of the supported processors so should I go for a different one?

Hey fellas! I need a bit of help. I've decided to get a new PC as I don't actually have one where I live but the problem is, I'm pretty ignorant of the stuff out there. I know that the 3 main priorities in a gaming PC are processor, graphics card and ram but since my other PC which I used to have is quite old, I haven't really been up to date with the stuff in the market. I'd be looking to get something proper as I'd like to run some of the heavy duty sims on high graphics at silk smooth frame rate. The kind of sims I'd be playing would ofcourse be LFS, SimBin sims, rFactor and iRacing.

I know that out of those games, iRacing is probably the best game to look at in terms of a benchmark but thing is, they're not too specific about the specifications required plus, you can't trust them ofcourse :mad: but I would be looking to run that with a full grid at a pretty good frame rate. So like I said, I'd like some advice on what to get? In terms of manufacturers, I'll be going AMD and nVidia. I don't need a hard drive as I brought that from my other PC but I would need a motherboard for sure as I have nothing upgrade to. I'll be going for a desktop machine too as I'm not really fond of laptops plus the fact that I'll be using the PC for gaming only really.

So, what do you guys advise? In terms of budget, I don't really have one as I'm not spending my own cash at the moment but maybe give me some figures. Thanks

Here is my own personal intrepretation of how a Impreza WRX would sound for the RB4

Cheers majod! . Its a shame that they only have up to the 06 cars but its pretty cool still

Hi all! I've recently reinstalled RBR. I know the RSRBR09 mod is meant to be brilliant but something thats frustrating me is that unfortunately, I don't have a big hard drive so I don't have 15 GBs to install it but really, what I'm really interested in the mod is the cars or more specifically, the WRC 2008 cars. I've searched all over the net for them but they don't seem to have been released separately so would anyone know where to find them? Thanks.

I'm always in support of progress of physics. Content is nice but considering many of the unreal looking WRs, physics would have to get an update so great stuff Scawen on reworking the tyre model. I know that you said that through beta testing, a lot of the testers felt that when the setups were set to the realistic values found in the real car, they felt a huge improvement in realism which is great but I wanted to ask if there are any plans on improving other aspects of the physics engine like suspension or more importantly, aerodynamics or is the main focus of the next patch only on tyre physics?

Can someone help me out here? I've extracted the folder into the engine folder but whenever I click to load the pack and put in Team Inferno or Team Inferno 2009 Soundpack, I keep getting an error like No files in soundpack or something like that so how do I fix this?

Hi all! I'm not sure if its just me having this problem or what but its very strange. Whenever I try to login to RSC now, I get to the page where it says "thank you for logging in, you will automatically be redirected" but when I get to the main forum page, I'm not logged in. It can't be cookies since I can login everywhere else so would anyone know how to solve this problem?

so has anyone found a way to modify the cylinder arrangement?

Hi all! I know this problem is quite common with the Logitech wheels but its happening to my MS Sidewinder wheel. Basically, there would be little blips of throttle or brake when I'm not even pressing them and also when I press them a bit, they don't remain at a constant level but go up a bit and down a bit. Would anyone know how I can fix this problem? Thanks.

Would there be any updates to involve engine type? and include turbochargers?

Hi all! I wanted to join in on this competition but its not too late . I'd still be interested in getting the tool used so that I can create some of my own personal designs. So would anyone know where I can get it? its not on Heidfeld's website now. Thanks.

Hi all! I've been thinking for a good while now which is better. I'm talking about pure speed so nothing to do with fuel conservation. A friend of mine often supports the idea of short shifting while I tend to do the opposite. We'd often disuss which is better.

An advantage of short shifting is that it helps with traction but for the obvious reason of being in lower revs in the next gear, the car wouldn't be close to the optimum revs (max power revs) which is why I prefer to avoid it as much as possible. After years and years of driving, I'm happy to say that my throttle modulation is quite smooth so I can drive in a lower gear without spinning the wheels. I'm aware that it takes some concentration to ensure that the amount of throttle applied is maximising the tyre grip without spinning which would depend on the smoothness of the engine (snappy or smooth powerband), how much grip the tyres produce and downforce. Short shifting would ensure all these factors are relatively maximised but at the cost of slightly worse acceleration but if short shifting is applied, it could be said that you build up your speed smoothly without interruption while if you used a lower gear, the build up of speed would be interrupted by the gear shift.

So, technically, which is the best option?

Hi all! This question has been on my mind for some time now. Anyway, to give the basic idea, if say the car's springs are set at 90F and 110R in Neuton meters. If say I want to stiffen the front to 120 and then calculate the ratio between the original settings (90/110= 0.82 or front is 82% of the rear) so then I divide 120 by 0.82 to give me 146 for the rear stiffness. Is this a plausible method to maintaining the handling characteristics of the setup but would obviously amplify the setup's understeer/oversteer tendency.

I know a major factor of setup is also feeling but the general rule is to make the car stiffer to get faster lap times. Also, does this method of calculation apply to other parts of setup (downforce, dampers and (maybe) camber and toe). Thanks.

Yeah, thanks, I tried that which got many of my games working again but a certain number of them aren't , even though they're in near perfect condition. Very strange.

Hi all! I've decided to get the ole beast up and running again so did some research to what the problem could be. It seems like the laser calibration issue, however, I want to avoid that because I don't want to risk the laser getting too close to the disc, resulting in damaging it.

Anyway, I found a guy who sells new lasers for it so I thought of just replacing it but problem is, I can't find any guides as to how to remove it, only laser calibration. My only other alternative is to send it to a local console repair shop but that would cost me €45 (35 repair and 10 p&p) when I can get the laser for around €20 and just do it myself. So, can anyone tell me how to replace it or lead me to a place with those instructions? Thanks. I'd really appreciate it.

Lads, can we avoid talking about the whole console war? Thanks.

Thank you for your comment dustin. Well, would anyone here know if I can copy saves to a different profile? I tried doing it but it wouldn't allow me, some error like can't transfer from profile to profile any way round that at least? And if that isn't possible, what device would you recommend so that I can transfer my profile and saves to my PC

Hi all! I just bought a memory unit today only to find that its functionality is very limited.

Basically, the only thing I can do is move, can't copy, my gamer profile and I can copy saves but they're useless without a gamer profile linked to them so would anyone here know a way round it?

Well, there are three minor scratches or lines. Unfortunately, the seller doesn't accept returns so I can't return it. I sent him a message to ask if I could at least get a replacement but no response.

The reason why I'm only suspicious is because I remember about 3 or 4 months ago, I bought Soul Calibur IV from GameStop and when I looked at the disc, I noticed a few marks or scratches on the disc so I took it back to play it safe and asked for a replacement which they gave me. The guy told me it was strange because he said it was brand new.

If there is nothing wrong with it in that I can play through campaign without getting a disc error then I'd be ok but it may take me some time to complete so I have this uncertainty in the back of my head that I'll find out by next month or something that there is something wrong with it but by then, my case would be very weak.

To be honest, I'm 50/50 about this one. I've always loved the CM games, even if, as Dan said, they're not realistic, they can be fun. I rented out grid a few months ago and it wasn't realistic but it was fun.

I'll always prefer sims over arcade racers but at the end of the day, if CM doesn't make it realistic, there is always someone else who can do it right (modding community) and hate me all you want but I quite liked the 2007 F1 mod (last one I played before being computerless) for rFactor. Physics were good. And as for rally games, RBR is the daddy easily and there is the RSRBR 09 mod which I believe has the 08 cars and (maybe, can't remember) 09 cars.

With modding, there are always those like us, who are purely striving to make/find the perfect sim without any business strings attached to ruin it.

Last edited by Leprekaun, Sat 25 Apr 2009, 02:11.

Hi all! I need some help with something.

I bought the limited edition of Halo 3 last week on eBay. It was claimed to be brand new and factory sealed and game price checked out to be normal. Anyway, eventually, I got it a couple days ago.

It was sealed and everything but my first suspicion was when the xbox sealed certificate was below the seal on the metal box (not even on the outer cover) but I thought thats just how they did it. So, I open the box, found the disc loose so thought maybe that was because of the airmail or something but then I look at the art book containing the different alien species and find that the adhesive cover of it seems to have air pockets or something so then I got really worried that I'd been tricked in that it wasn't brand new. Anyway, I thought that maybe it was a cause of bad storage (was in the heat for a while or something) but the thing that got me really suspicious was the back of the disc.

I don't know if they could be defined as scratches or not because under dim light, you can't see anything, only when I put it up against a lamp or something. I thought maybe my 360 messed with it a bit so I checked my other games, some of which I've owned for 6 months and there wasn't a single mark on them. The game still works, loads up fine and everything but I just wanted to ask if anyone could tell me if its a normal occurence that sometimes, new games have marks on them.

Because if it isn't normal, I'll get eBay involved to sort it out.

Thanks.

Yeah, SD brought up a lot of good points, especially the one about knowing your car's capabilities and also, understanding how the car works under the setup you're using. Your setup might induce entry understeer but it may allow for a faster exit because you wouldn't fear sliding the car on throttle application (only applies to RWD or 4WD cars) on exit so logically, your strength would lie at the exit of the corner so you would insure going through the corner neatly to allow you to charge ahead of the driver ahead on the straight after.

For an oversteery setup, you would have to reverse the logic and overtake on entry because your strong point would be better turn in.

Although, something which can be applied to both styles is locking out the inside line. With an understeery setup, you might have to make an extra slow entry speed to insure you're right on the inside of the corner and then fly out and with an oversteery setup, you'd be able to go in at a faster speed but have to deal with the car gently (smooth throttle and steering input) at the exit to prevent your car from sliding and giving your opponent an opportunity to pull off a switch back (dive to the inside) on you and regain his position which can also occur if you understeer off on entry.

Personally, I prefer my car to oversteer as I can work with it better and get better lap times and in this scenarion, I think I'd prefer it as well because if you slide the car at the exit, its less likely that your opponent would be able to pass because if you slide, it would turn the car more to the inside and your car would be in a more angled position in relation to the road increasing the amount of space that your car has taken up.

Last edited by Leprekaun, Sat 25 Apr 2009, 00:10.

yeah, its a joke what some games shops offer for games (few months ago, tried to sell my original copy of Forza 2 cuz I found the limited edition and best offer was like 2 or 3 Euros! when they were selling preowned copies for 20 selling it for 10x the money they'd give me. If I were you, I'd sell it in the local dealer or something, its smarter business wise because you can ask for a higher asking price because there shouldn't be many other sellers doing the same trick where they may be willing to sell their stuff really cheap, thus making you look like the cheeky expensive seller.

well, the main trick to being a fair driver is to put 2 things in your head anticipation and consideration. If you apply those 2 things when racing with someone, you'll be sure to be to have good close racing. Really, its just plain and common sense, play nice.

If you're on the inside of the upcoming corner while you're on a straight and there's another guy alongside you going into the corner, be considerate and leave the outside for your opponent. In order to keep your car to the inside, you'd obviously have to drive slower than you usually would round the corner so instead of braking at the 100m board, brake a little bit before (105-110m) to ensure that you can bring the car down to a lower speed thus allowing you to keep the car to the inside.

Its basic physics, the faster you go, the harder you're pushing the car = less suspension travel and higher tyre friction (which all lead to less grip increasing the chance of going off your line or the track)