getting some arm muscles helps too

Quote from reetp :

Try increasing the sound delay thingie.

Btw. you should get a new PC / more RAM. Athlon 2500+ is like P4 1500.

wow, great comparison

illepall

I also feel something weird in my clutch pedal, but honestly, I don't notice it while driving (more important things on my head).
And you will probably void your warranty if you open it, but the pedal set is so easy to open up and close that they'll never notice it (as long as you use a brain when opening (they have a surprise for stupid people under the carpet thingy)).

Never seen that before, would be fun if you maked a video of it.

What also helps heel and toe is having the thottle pedal further away, and the brake pedal closer (towards you), so when you look from the side you can see a difference of at least 1 cm between the pedals. I modded my g25 pedals like this and I'm only 2 tenths slower then my pb (which I did with the sequential setup).
The only problem I have is the speed of my downshifts, so most of the time I'm downshifting more then 1 gear (like going from 6th to 4th). Threshold breaking is also a big problem

Quote from der_jackal :

Not really...it's just something they do, I wish I had tivo'd some of last year's American LeMans series. They showed a full lap of MidOhio with a Porsche driver doing the same thing, and they gave a really great explanation of why he was doing it in some areas where loading the suspension wasn't really required (which is why you would normally do it on a long straight. Big bump you tend to trail brake to load the suspension so you keep the car settled *g*).

Easiest way to think of it is; The pads and pistons are vibrated, shoved and pushed around while racing. The pads in those V8 Supercars "float" in the caliper so they can be changed on the fly (required in some races) and as such they can be pushed back farther from the rotor face or move around just ever so slightly to where they aren't "true" to the rotor face.

What that technique does is just pushes the pistons in the caliper lightly forward, seats the pads to give maximum coverage and ensures the whole braking system is primed to work as they need it.

Thanks for the great explanation, I finally got it now

btw, some curiosity, do the braking lights light up because of this?

Quote from der_jackal :

Yup, there's a light tap just prior to entering the braking zone, but it is to make sure the pads are snug and close to the rotor surface.

Still dont really understand. Does this maneuver have a name, so I can google it or something?

Quote from der_jackal :

When all else fails a little video will help guide you.

Sorry I don't have Mark Skaife doing it around Bathurst...so you have to settle for Todd Kelly
http://www.audiworld.members.w ... Panorama_lap_footwell.wmv

Nice vid, but why does he tap the brake on the straights? Is it to get the brakes warmed up a bit?
He has quite some thottle travel btw

I'd love to use the smokemod, but when I run smokemod.exe and after that I run LFS, smokemod.exe goes to 100% and tries to hang my computer. Is this a known bug, or did i do something stupid?

Quote from Hyperactive :

Not really: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=1840

Thanks for the link, that chair looks awesome. Never thought it could be so simple, just getting a chair and welding it on a old office chair, or even putting it on wood.
I'll surely go to a scrapyard and get a nice seat for myself. This together with the pedal mod is gonna be awesome. Only thing left to mod is the gear shifter

hey turbodad, great work there. Im planning the same thing so I'd really like to know the angle of the pedals and the distances of the pedals. Are they based on a car, or is this your personal preference?
Last but not least, how is the driving? Less cramp? Better heel & toe? And when you drive in conedodgers do you drive without any driving aids?

Sorry for the amount of questions, just curious

I also had the sidewinder for about 8 years, and I found out it sucked after i got my g25
Everything of the g25 is better, except the noise (ms ff wheel was way more quiet)

I think it is a little bit on the soft side. The throttle may have been a little stiffer as well. But, if you can't drive with it because it's too stiff, get some more feet muscle, or eat more doritos so gravity helps you

Is there any news about this mod? Or has anyone made a similar mod?

I'm thinking of making this one, but it's kinda hard to guess the sizes and angles, so if someone has the data required, please post

Last edited by mikey_G, Mon 11 Dec 2006, 14:18.

Just finished watching it, great race and great commentating.
LFS is quite the flight simulator

btw sidi, what is a nylon ball and where do i actually get those?

A league wouldnt be such a bad idea, but I think it would involve alot of crashes in hairpins because of the heel and toe required for braking
But i do gradually get better at it. I usually practice on cops and robbers servers btw.

Quote from Sawyer :

So what exactly is used for the 900 hardlocks? Cuz my locks sound like they gonna brake anytime soon. When the autocalibration on start kicks in it goes first right which sounds like hitting rubber then it goes all the way left and sound like hitting plastic stuff which isnt really tight. Just hope it wont wreck on me on its own.

It is basically a plastic square on the steering axe hitting an other plastic thing inside the wheel. It's not really a great way to stop movement, but i never hit the 900 degrees lock in normal driving so i dont really care about it.

I agree. Our minds have been ruined by microsoft, logitech and other plastic crap wheels. When I got this wheel I was seriously doubting myself if I should keep it because of the braking pedal, noisy steer and the cheap feeling gear thingie. But I kept it and i'm very happy with it. I only still suck with heel & toe. Whenever I have to do that I'm starting to make funny movements and weird faces....
btw, real race cars have even heavier pedals, so be glad logitech didnt put a heavier spring in.

sidi, could you also make a small video or something? I'm really interested how your modded shifter looks and sounds.

Well, I'm happy you guys found the cause of the noise. I think i just gonna return this g25 and hope I get a better one which doesn;t make a lot of noise, and if that one still makes noise i'll just wait for a new revision.

Well, it's still a good wheel, but I just don't like the noise it's making. My 8 year old MS sidewinder ffb is like 10 times more quiet.
I also dont really know what to do, do you guys think I should return it?

Quote from Shotglass :

i figured if you dont get to the cogwheel you cant tighten the screws on the motors either ?
anyway if you dare to open the gears plase dont forget to take pictures of it i would be interested in seeing what exactly is wrong with those noisy wheels

ive got a suspicion it the anti backlash thats causing it; maybe too much preload on the cogs springs

Well, I'm not gonna open that area because it would require that I have to unscrew everything in the steering wheel. Another reason is that I've had this wheel for only 24 hours and it's the first wheel I've ever opened

Maybe SatCP knows the answer, he probably opened every part in the wheel (well, that's the feeling I get if I see his photographs ).

Thanks for those pictures sidi, Removing the steering wheel is a pretty scary thing to do, especially when it's brandnew

I just finished disassembling the steeringwheel, but everything is solid in there. I think the noise is coming from where the engines get their input (according to my mac translator; the cog wheel), but I can't really get there (I also dont want to).

I guess i just have to use less wheel turn and something to damp out the vibrations my wheel is giving to my wooden desk. So if someone has some advise about which material to use, please do tell

and thanks SatCP and sidi for helping out a nervous n00b

Thanks SatCP. btw, I love the g25 stuff your doing in the GoT forum

Quote from sidi :

Like i said elsewhere mine was making a slightly louder noise turning to the right but last night it got the same treatment as the shifter and pedals and i ripped it apart,i gave the screws that hold the motors on an extra tweak and also the 6-8 (my memory is shit) screws on the plate the motors bolt to,i then noticed the motors had some kind of cover over them like a heatsink and the righthand side one was abit loose so i took that off and compressed it abit and popped it back on,as of today no more dif in noise levels turning left or right maybe it's all a coincidence but like i say noise seems to have gone for now.

Hi, I also have some noise problems with my g25 (and I just received it...), so i tried to dismantle it but didnt really succeed.
I took out all the screws on the bottom and now the top cover is loose, but the steering axe is prohibiting me now. So i thought lets remove the steering wheel, removed the screws took a look inside there and i see the wires for the wheel buttons (and it does look a little bit scary to disassemble the stuff there).
What do I do now? Do I really have to disconnect everything there, or is there an easier way?