Well GTs are made using road car chassis' and engines. That's what i mean. LMPs have a full carbon fibre tub, body work, engine, all specificaly made for endurance racing. More and more nowadays for Le Mans. That's what i meant.

I agree that the GTRs are quite simmilar to JGTCs since they are turbo powered (well, XRR and FXR). DIdn't know about the 575, so only the MC12 races from the FIAT group now? And what's happening fith FIA GT? There are no TV broadcasts, they run on obscure, never before heard for racetracks. It's going more and more downhill or what? And a Le Mans Series? That exists too? Where do they race?

Well not 5 lap races buy sprint races non-the-less. And GTRs are endurance cars IMO. The big ones at least. UFR and XFR are more of a WTCC like car used for sprint races.

EDIT: but yes, the LMPs are way different to GTRs. The latter are based on production chassis and engines, other parts are more or less swapped out, LMPs are made for racing from the ground up. But they are ALL meant for endurance racing. DBR9s, 575s, Corvettes and stuff like that are used mainly in the ALMS, Le Mans and GTR (if that series still exists).

Well for some reason i seem kinda strange for driving cars on PC in my class... Maybe you americans are mroe tolerant to doing things virtually.

On topic, after a session of LFS, the wheel offcentred to the right everytime, it ended up somewhere from 5 to 10° to the right. And i couldn't get it into 5th smoothly sometimes, as i said before. Otherwise it was fun. I was all sucky, but still In a month or so i think i would've gotten used to this. I can understeer now. Stopping the understeer is a problem and it ussually rockets me the other way, out of the corner and into a wall in SO.

there are drivers for the centering problem. I cans end them to you or drop a mail to fanatec, you'll get them in minutes. That is if you're using the USB key drivers now. And remember to uninstall the old drivers first.

Kamkor did you mount it properly? Open the levers, put the fastening thingie up to the table, screw it up and lever it into place? It' still too flimy, the wheel cna be flexed downwards (not upwards, since the base prevents that) but the + is it can be mounted and unmounted in a second.

Quote from spankmeyer :

'Racecars shouldn't be confined to racetracks.'

I agree! Now BMW please send me one to keep on my driveway.

QFT! Though i'd be happy with a black, ordinary M3... :>

And i was told Quadro or FireGL GPUs are only usefull for people modeling huge buildings with complete enviromets. If you're not making huge and detailed models an ordinary card should (apparently) be fine. And there's not much betterthan a 860 in a laptop. There are 8800s but i think it's a stupid idea to put that much horsepower into a laptop. Smarter to get a desktop then. And cheaper.

Quote from _ak :

Actually RR3 is running with BF1/WE1 combo at the moment

I'd rather see GP2 car to fill the gap between FO8 and BF1 and something between FOX and FO8

And a car for inbetween all of those (so additioanl 4 cars). Why not mroe tintops? A formula is just a formula (yes, i hate openwheelers :P)

I almost completely agree with bash0r's PROs and CONs. Just not with the shifter cable being too short. It depends. THe way it's mounted now is a con for me since not everybody uses a straight desk - i have my desk spread over 2 walls with the monitor in the corner. The shifter just barely fits on the straight part. Luckely i have this table, a few years back i had a complete radius. I don't have any driver problems though since i am on XP. And i also agree with the 540 setting via the LCD: And if it's possible to make a real stop via the FFB where the rotation should stop. ATM it's very easy to go past that.

Sidi 360 is okay, IMO 270 isn't needed. And the bar way is the only way to mount the shifter. Unless you put 2 bolts through the holes and make a custom mount. I'd REALLY like to see 2 ways to mount the shifter - the current (since it's usefull for the PS3 guys that use it on the lap, can't imagine lots of people doing that though) and somethign simmilar to the G25 way, with it's own clamp. And separate shifters are nice but kinda bad too. Now i'd have to change the shifter everytime i want to drive the GTRs in LFS (FXR or XRR; they have sequential ticks and buttons suck :P)

EDIT: it seems the centrespring thingie is always on. I have to enable, apply, disable and apply it to really disable it. But when i close the driver control pannel, it's back.

Last edited by Primoz, Fri 8 Feb 2008, 16:50.

bash0r none of the 4 links works (hotlinking).

I hope there will be great battles between this and the GT2 Vantage

That is true...

EDIT: can we open the pedals/wheel up and have a look at the insides? Or are there any pics out there to scratch the itch?

The title says it all! Debuting in ALMS in 2009. I think this will pwn the E46 M3 GTR hard. Looks wise, i don't know, IMO the E46 is still one of the best looking cars made by BMW, the GTR included. This one isn't bad on the other hand though :P

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112448

Quote from ArrAssAdor :

The PU foam which is under the pedal is actually a little bit too high. We can cut it a bit to give the pedals more travel and make it softer as well.

Sorry for all those driver problems! We will make a new version available tomorrow which should fix the issues.

I think making the pedal have a longer travel would be better. Even with a pressure sensitive wheel it wouldn't be perfect because in a real car you have a direct feedback from the braking force. Here you just can't know. Well, it's all a case of geting used to it, as you also must get used to have a certain amount of travel.

My shifter is generally okay, it just tends to get stuck sometimes ging from 4th to 5th. Releasing it to the central position and shifting to 5th works then.

Oh, the LED display says bar over here. Is that normal? (it's bar or the setup)

niels calibrate it from -7 to 0, press a button, it jumps to 8 and then after calibrating back to -7 again? I just got this problem too.

Don't mind my driver rant, i uninstalled the drivers via Add/Remove Components, installed them (the new ones) and it's all okay. The old style with the calibration settings.

Nils what kind of problems do you have? i don't exactly understand. DO as i did - uninstall and reinstall the drivers.

Okay, spent the afternoon with the wheel. I have mxed feelings. It's very well made, but as it was mentioned, the gearshift mounts are less than perfect (way less). The caps get trapped inside the wheel and shifter and are not sturdy enough. THe wheel was off-centre a lot (in both ways, changing with each turn), but i got new drivers, just did a reboot and i'm about to test. The brake is weird, yes, it's still an axis but it's very short. mimics a real car better but it really needs to get used to. THe FFB is so damn strong it's unbelievable. Took the wheel right out of my hands a few times. And it's very quiet ('neatly' pointed out by my father, who sleeps under me). THe wheel itself is quite big (compared to the MOMO), but the whole wheel (the FFB motor housing) is so damn small, it's also unbelieavable. The wireless pedals didn't work (there's a table in between), plugging it in did the trick. Empty batteries? THere are loads of buttons but they don't feel as good. The 8 on the 9 and 3 o'clock pillars are good, could be better, but the 'paddle shifter' buttons could have more feedback (more of a click). The D-pad is like jelly, the start and select buttons are also quite simmilar but better. I can only compare the shifter to the Punto i drive and it's quite hard. I should get a G25 somewhere to do a real comaprison. And now i am off to test the new drivers.

Their look is totaly different, gone is the wheel, gone are the degree settings, which is a shame, but there is a calibrate function. Will see how it works.

EDIT: well the new drivers fixed the centering issue but the buttons were ALL changed and the clutch pedal is now all weird. Full depressed it gives about 90% pressed, the same if it fully pressed in and it goes 'over the top' when pressing it. TO 100% then to 0% and back up to 90%.

Last edited by Primoz, Thu 7 Feb 2008, 19:32.

I was just dropped wiht a large, brown box. Camera in hand (actually sitting on the desk besides me) and the box opener in the other (well, again, the same...), and i'm about to attack the box!!

And why would you want a map?? The track name is written in the server list. After a year in LFS you should know the most well known tracks by heart.

There were many ideas, for a big engined (V12 6 litre) FR, MR, a turbo FZ50 (AWD), all with ~600 bhp, quick as hell. That would be GT1, the current cars could be GT2s, make the UFR and XFRs maybe even a bit slower or a bit fastr (in the latter case, that would be GT3) and add some cars, add an LMP or two, make ~50ish raceable slots and enjoy the mayhem in a MoE race.

Quote from Bandit77 :

Wow, baaaaaad guess, really bad guess.

MX-5?

XFG is sometimes faster too. SO5 being one of those cases.

Quote from h3adbang3r :

I'm using the 169.28 drivers, I got the force AA to work on them. The 171.16 driver was way too unstable for me, I would get random BSOD's, especially in LFS.

How? I'm on .21s (XP) and don't have any AA. TDU wouldn't react too, even though it was set to 4x from inside the game!!

SOme of us WANT the virtual wheel and arms, anybody thought of that??

Quote from rjm1982 :

Actually, most race cars DON'T have smooth underbodies...they did for a bit, then they realized that's a terrible idea...remember the Mercedies and the other (Porsche, Jag? ... i forget) lifting off on a straight piece of track and doing backwards flips?

Open wheel cars still use smooth bottom plates, but thats's because the car's arent shaped like normal cars...which have a profile similar to a wing...and a smooth bottom promotes more airflow under the car, meaning air under is moving much faster than the air over the car...which is what gives a wing lift...all you have to do at that point it give it a positive angle of incidence (lift the nose just a bit) and you have a flying car...

I think a modeled version would be great...and would look nice...doesnt have to be super detailed (think something like the bottom of a hot-wheels car) ... but just make it look like something more than absolute black...

Don't tell me, do you mean the difuser? And racing cars still have pretty flat underbodies. At least the LMPs do (And the CLK-GTRs were LMPs). They on the other hand have 2 difusers, one ebhind the front and one behind the rear axle.