So true but you also don't get what is advertised. The so called high grade 91 octane causes detonation issues in my 944 with a factory tune. The regular 85 octane is so bad that you can't run it anything above 8.5:1 compression without retarding the ignition timing to damn near nothing. Already busted a piston on my motorcycle because of it (single nozzle pumps cause major problems).
The worst I have had is some jackass in a minivan parked against the rubber pads on the brush guard on my truck and there was a little truck parked about 3 inches away from my rear bumper.
I put the transfer case into 4 wheel low and put the trans in low, let out the clutch and pushed that POS Toyota minivan out of the way. It did not take much effort, did not hurt my truck at all, and I felt so much better after doing it.
I have so far turned down a few (at least 3) great looking (and sober) girls that wanted to "hook up". I even knew each of them for at least a few months before.
Point being is that some of us want a little more than a **** buddy.
I think the worst time I had with a girl was when I went to one of those stupid ass high school dance things (the one and only I ever went to) and started dancing with a girl that I kind of liked. At the end of the song, I turned around only to find a leather boot traveling a full swing at my nuts from a girl that I said no to dancing with a few minutes earlier. This was about six years ago and I have never danced with anyone since.
I'd say that is the case for most cars but others just have an ultra piss-poor factory tune to begin with. I drove my Porsche 944 for about two years before I just plain gave up and pulled out the laptop, emulator, and the reprogrammable chips.
The car pulled way harder starting about 1200rpm sooner and just kept on pulling hard way past where the factory had the limiter. Oh yeah and the first half of the pedal actually did something. I ended up putting it back to the factory tune because I had issues which ended up being junk in my injectors and fuel rail.
All I can say is that I hate the factory tune and I am putting it back to the way I had it first thing tomorrow morning. It has been 3 days and it is pissing me off.
I swear Porsche spent the time to enlarge the engine to 2.7 liters and up the compression to 11:1, use bigger valves and intake, and then decided to use the tune from the 2.5.
I was chasing one of those in my 944 the other day and the idiot completely lost it. I guess those S2000's are faster than I thought (unless you get an idiot driving it) because I had one hell of a work out keeping up
Been playing around with this thing. Not everything is back on it but it looks good considering how bad it looked after sitting at my sister's place for a year.
My car has nearly 400,000 km. It gets a boot full till the tach reads way off the scale (at about the 7800 mark) a couple times a week, any higher and I start getting valve float. Runs better than any other N/A 944 I have ever been in.
My 6.5 diesel truck meets the solid limiter at 3750 every single time I drive it. I hate that limiter with a passion, cuts in right as the real power starts to come in. I am going to attack the CPU with my laptop one day.
As long as the oil is up to temp and you are not low on oil, you will be fine.
Too bad my car came from the factory with some good set of Brembo brakes, already bought the K&N, and I spent money finding the wider offset rims for the rear...
Monroe sells jack $#!% for my car.
Have to find some bigger sway bars though... 27mm front is okay but the 18mm rear is useless.
I see all sorts of stuff where I live.
R33 Skyline about once a month, Ferrari 288 once a week, tons of 360 Spyders, Corvette ZR1, Viper GTS, Porsche 928 GTS every single day, the occasional Lamborghini, a Lotus Esprit V8, and crap loads of Porsche 911's. My 944 was parked between two Audi R8 V10's a few weeks ago, stupid me forgot my camera.
The one thing I have not seen in a very long time is an Aston Martin.
Damn, I need to stop racing and just have fun with my stuff. This is after about 4 months of racing. This is nothing compared to what my MT2 racing shell looks like after a year. JB weld and safety wire FTW. https://sites.google.com/site/ ... height=1200&width=900
Yeah, it is fine post break-in though.
This is my third handle, this has been the strongest one out of the three but it still broke. https://sites.google.com/site/ ... height=1200&width=900
The rope is tied around the broken half of the handle because the rope pulled through and took part of the handle off.
Truck was dirty in the picture, I was having fun in grass until the pull start rope broke.
Twin steel disc brake setup works too, Front end of the truck stopped, the back end came up and nailed the tree and bent my cooling head.
Save yourself the trouble and go for an O.S. They cost a little up front but cost less in the long run and they last forever. Incredible torque too.
The picco's are kind of a pain to get to run right and they are absolutely evil to start. I am on my third pull-start handle (oh yes, it kicks back and it hurts like hell) and third one-way bearing. It has broken two roto-start back plates and one shaft.
Damn this thread.... I had my RC stuff packed and has been there for over a year, now I am spending my money and playing with it again. I have no idea where my T-Maxx or my RS4 went though.
I got my HPI Savage going again... Remembering why I picked the Picco .27, the damn front end of the truck will not stay down.
I had to mill the head due to corrosion on a engine that already started at 11:1. You forgot to mention that you have to also advance ignition timing because the ethanol burns a lot slower.
Fuel additives do not work.
When you are running flat out with injectors that are maxed into a system that fires all 4 injectors at the same time, that normally was not designed for use at 7800rpm it ends up smelling like burning alcohol.
I am happy with ethanol, no more detonation, tons more power, the smell does not give me a migraine (Hatch seal leaks and the fumes suck in every once in a while), and I still get 24mpg.
Back on topic....
I have been looking into getting a Mercedes diesel wagon for a very long time but I do not want an automatic. What do they use to do a manual swap on a W123 300TD? I found one for sale for $900 that will not stay running (Injector related) and am considering it if I can put a manual in it.
My diesel truck is a 5-speed manual hooked to a 6.5L turbo diesel (worst injection system I have ever seen). Running a biodiesel blend.
Oh trust me, speed limits are not an issue with an old 2-stroke 50cc bike. Well, that is after I have my way with it
Too bad you can't get away with riding something really old with a larger displacement. Insurance is cheap for me because I don't have anything newer than 1978.
I have a 1973 TX500 for a street bike which is more than enough for a commuter and so you don't have to hear something screaming trying to keep up the pace. Poor thing is still going after 92,000kms and the rings and rod bearings are due for their first replacement.
I am just lazy and have my 120mm test gauge laying on my passenger floor . They have their purposes, I learned my truck was only pushing 3psi so I bumped it up to 12 with a better wastegate actuator. Brought it back to what It was supposed to be.
What's funny about that statement is that I am actually working on doing this to my 1981 XT500 because I bought the bike with a bad CDI but I cannot force myself to part the bike out.
I have never had a problem with a set of points. If you adjust them once in a while, they do not go bad on their own.