Quote from KiRmelius :

Well it idles rough, and backfires a lot. When cold, it's running almost fine, pulls like a rocket, but when engine warms up bike starts to struggle and tremble, until it stalls.
I still love my Yamaha, despite it's bitchy behavior.

I was about to scan some pages from my manuals to send you but then I realized something; you have the CDI type ignition . This explains just about all the symptoms. I have had four bikes with the CDI and two have failed. What I have experienced is They are extremely difficult to start and backfire while trying to start causing massive quantities of pain. When they do run, they backfire and run inconsistently but do have their moments of running extremely well.

I would make absolute certain that the problem is not with your carburetor, clean it (air and fuel passage ways must be clear) or try one that is known to be good. If this does not solve the problem, then your CDI box is probably bad and you should start looking for another.

This diagnostic advice was given to me by multiple people and I find it funny.
Locate the CDI box (on the XT's this is located behind the air box mounted to the frame), grab a hammer, and hit the box. If the bike runs better or worse, find a new CDI unit. If it runs the same, hit it harder...

Maybe someone else has another idea but from my experiences, I would say it is the CDI. This is not something I consider lightly as those CDI boxes can be VERY expensive. This is why I stick to bikes with points.

Finally got it together, It has been in boxes for about 5 years.
Originally a 1978 TT500 but I made it a TT/XT hybrid. I do not care about the dented tank, I am going to be riding the damn thing.
This is only one of the 5 motorcycles that I have but whatever...

I won't buy it. The last NFS that I played legally was Carbon... Somehow wasting $50 on a horrible game puts a quick end to the series. I played Pro Street, which was a joke, and NFS shift was worse.

I might try the demo and if they don't have a demo I will do what I have done with other games. Download a torrent from someone else's non-secure wireless.
I have already driven across the U.S. It does not take very long at speed limits and taking it fairly easy. 3-4 days... If that's the case then this game should not take long to play through anyway.

Parking your car in gear will never do damage to a transmission unless the car gets hit hard (Some Toyota transmissions will lock due to the reverse gear sliding into place if the car is hit). Anyway....

I do not know what you can do but you or someone else needs to separate the trans from the engine to see/ replace what went wrong because that is almost certainly where your problem is.

Unless you were making yourself deaf with loud music and headbanging like an idiot, you would have heard and felt the transmission go. My bet is on something hydraulic or pressure plate/ throw out bearing (Clutch release bearing, or whatever the name keeps changing to)

The problem is obviously a clutch problem, you would have known if it was something else.

What I would do, personally, is freak out and pull out the tools.
You have one of those extremely obnoxious slave cylinders that is located within the bellhousing so either way if it is hydraulic or mechanical, you are going to have to pull the trans and get to the clutch.

My guess is that slave cylinder busted or got jammed and is pushing on the pressure plate (Pulling if you have one like my 944) keeping the clutch from grabbing. It has probably been leaking for a while.

Quote from dadge :

yeah, dubbing is short for VeeDubya. or VeeDub or Dub. kids these days pffft.

Hey, I can join in on this with my VeeDub! lol
https://sites.google.com/site/skstibi/IMG_3030.jpg

Not the fastest thing I have owned but still fun. Only about 390,000kms on it
https://sites.google.com/site/ ... ?height=600&width=800

Agreed. A lot of the time I will put my car in gear, hold the brake and let the clutch out for a moment to get the brake to disengage before the race starts.

Quote from wheel4hummer :

When a vehicle comes with HIDs, they're in proper projectors that don't scatter light all over the place and blind everyone.

Would be nice if all the car companies followed the rules but japan seems to think they are special.
Toyota does not follow those rules. About 99.95% of Toyota (and their Lexus brand is 100% blinding)
If you look at the Beam angle, there isn't one. It's straight out from the bulb on low beam and everywhere on high beam.


Don't even bother with the HID kit or a Xenon kit. Save yourself a lot of time, money, and have the car pass MOT.
Just use relays with your existing housings and bulbs.
You lose a lot of power to your lights through switches and a hell of a lot of undersized wiring. A few bucks in wiring and relays along with a few hours of work and holy ****, you can see!

I have no idea why people like the blue tint. I can see better with regular WHITE light.

Every time I get blinded by a cars headlights, it's some ***** with a Toyota/Lexus or some idiot with an aftermarket HID kit.
If I am going the other way and you have one of the above, I am returning the favor and you are going to be seeing spots.

I have a question, In how many countries is it legal to drive around with your fog lights AND headlights on? I am starting to get annoyed at people with blinding fog lights as well.

Last edited by skstibi, Tue, 18 Jan 2011 03:53.

Quote from Crashgate3 :

eBay funnies

That's just epic. Thank you for supplying me with entertainment for tonight.

Quote from sjava :

English please

Sorry, I guess I didn't give a history of where I have lived.

If everyone else is complaining about it then I'll join in...
Since when am I one of the fastest, and two I was born in the US and do not like being back in the US thus the NZ flag.

Dude.. Wtf. I'd rather walk than use any of those three.

Shred: Suzuki Liana
Crush: Chevrolet Lacetti
Target practice: Kia Cee'd



MK1 VW GTI
Porsche 928 S4
Ferrari F40

I am laughing at mine. It looks fine in the test but it is not consistent and it cuts out a lot. I had a much smoother connection on my 3mb line about a year and a half ago and I could race online without lag. With the 10mb line I am lagging quite a bit.
Edit: I still lag with this... WTF http://www.speedtest.net/result/1072559052.png

Just proves faster is not always better, 60% packet loss?
http://www.pingtest.net/result/30282847.png

Last edited by skstibi, Thu, 16 Dec 2010 03:41.

Quote from e2mustang :

those a holes's post made me crack up so hard tho.. but the other hand what kind of person comes on a game forum to ask something like that?

I see no flaw in your argument.

I'd say ask what's wrong, if she just plain does not want to talk about it then walk away.
If you only missed her birthday and she is THAT pissed about it, I'd say the relationship is not going to last long anyway. If this is the case, you can probably patch things up temporarily but I can almost guarantee that you will have issues later.


I went through something similar about 4 years ago and I have not found anyone I want to be with since then so maybe I am not the best person to take advice from... At least it is a more useful post than some of these other a-holes on here.

I bet that your throw out bearing (thrust bearing) is blown up. Your pressure plate might be toast as well.

Your transmission is fine. The problem is clutch related.
I can about guarantee that you will see the problem as soon as you pull the trans out and get a look at your clutch assembly.

I bet the cause was a Chinese thrust bearing that ran out of lubrication. It was either a cheap part, a defective part, or has a lot of use on it (Holding the clutch down at traffic lights for example tortures the poor bearing among other things)

Last edited by skstibi, Wed, 1 Sep 2010 03:10.

You are flat out at 7k on the rev limiter. It still takes more work for the engine to maintain a speed of 130 due to wind resistance.

The way Fuel injection works just to put it in here since I have experience tuning modern Fuel injected cars.

For fuel: The computer reads the throttle position sensor and the Air flow meter.
For ignition timing: This goes by engine load at a given RPM. I am not going to explain a advance graph. To make it easy.. the higher the load, the less ignition timing is present.
If you take away advance by giving the engine more of a load (WIND RESISTANCE!!!!!) the engine will suck in more air. More air going past the air flow meter means more fuel is let through.


So I stick to my comment. Going flat out at 130 uses more fuel than flat out at 30.

Quote from rsnake53 :

It seems like it could be a semi-feasible temp fix.

Aren't you supposed to do something to the ends to make it fit properly though? Usually I see springs angled at the end to create a flat surface on the ends.

That's where the torch, hammer, clamp, and a bucket of water come in to play.
Stick the spring in the bucket of water up to about where you want it to bend, Heat the sucker up red hot, clamp onto it where you want to bend it, and use the hammer to bend the spring to the angle desired. Wait for it to cool for a minute then flip the spring to cool it the rest of the way.

Done it many times and never have had a problem. Just have never done it to a spring that had issues to start with.

Flame me if you want but it works and it leaves the rest of the spring unharmed. If you just heat it and bend it (without the bucket), you will have some problems.

This is the second time this has happened.
The results board listed me in 6th place.

"A specific client's car is invisible to all other clients, and does not update position"

Well, This is a different issue. During the race, people could see my car, make solid contact, and be aware of it.
The Race Results showed that I finished 6th However the replay does not even show me.

Last edited by skstibi, Tue, 4 May 2010 21:13.

This is the strangest thing I have seen.

Ok... I joined the race right after the grid lined up, I completed the race and others could see me, one guy even hit the brakes as he spun me around! However my name nor my car shows up during the replay.

Make note of Nachaso at 1:35 Replay time. Why would he hit the brakes if there wasn't anything there?

You can't say anything these days.
It is bad when you say "The Mexican guy" and you get done for being racist, You say "the black guy" and you get **** for that. Yet why is it if you are in a room with back dudes and they refer to you as "the white guy" there is no person who would give a damn.

It is just way out of hand. There is nothing wrong with saying what they are, I mean seriously. What is really wrong with a simple description like "The black guy" or "The Japanese guy"?

Anything can be racist now. Apparently you can be racist against pigs so...

Last edited by skstibi, Wed, 24 Feb 2010 03:33.

First choice would be FZR. Second would be FZ5.

I personally think my 944 drives better than the XRT. I am going to get a 944 turbo but that would put the XRT to shame by far

LX6 would have been on my list but all I have to do is buy a Westfield and build myself one special 194CI chevy inline 6. (Add a small turbo and some semi-slicks?) Hell, how about slap a small v8 in there?

Quote from racer hero :

Lap and Timecode: lap 87, turn 1.
Cars involved: 14(?), 20
brief description of incident: 14 on the inside, 20 on the outside, 14 just acts like were not there and shoves us in the wall. Causes us undriveable damage and lots of time.

I can't even begin to say how sorry I am.
I did not want to drive the last part of the race due to bad lag on my end. Bad framerate lag at the wrong moment.
Had the problem in the first part of the race and went into the wall quite a few times.