Quote from wheel4hummer :

skstibi, do you live in Fairfax?

No I live in Colorado. I think I took the picture while still in Great Falls.
My uncle lives in Great Falls and I was over there for a while.

Ahh!! What you do with SO and the XRT is brake less and straighten the back end out with the wall when you get a little corner exit oversteer

I never come out of a race at South City without some quarter panel damage.

Anyway, back on topic.
ABS is fine for those who want to use it. I do agree that there should be a server option to disable it.
Personally, I always set my brakes so they will lock at any speed if you apply too much pressure.

I was going through some pictures I took a while back.
One I found funny and the other was just a failure.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Never measure across the tyres like he suggests. That will get the toe correct, but not necessarily in line with the centreline of the car, which is just as important in terms of handling/safety. Either use parallel strings measured against known centrelines, or get a professional to do it for you. These days they use lasers so you are fooled into thinking it's super accurate (it isn't any better than with string, except you can't trip over a laser).

Blimey. I wish I knew where to look up if a Proton Wira has adjustable toe in the rear suspension in another country...

I just asked him to measure to see if that was 100% certainly the cause of the tire wear. If I was trying to explain how to do an alignment my post would have been a hell of a lot longer!
My alignments are far superior to any of the ones I have had done by some shop and yes, string is still by far the best way to do it.

I looked up using google to see if the Proton Wira had adjustable rear toe. All the websites that I found said it did.

It is quite obvious that I was not telling him how to do his alignment.. I only asked him to tell me what the measurement difference was.
Second, if you find anywhere that the Wira does NOT have adjustable rear toe, please share. If not, shut it.

Last edited by skstibi, Tue 27 Oct 2009, 18:18.

I just looked it up and it looks like the rear IS adjustable.

It just takes a tape measure, a friend, and a couple wrenches to set the alignment. No special tools required (unless your rear is not adjustable).

Is your wheel pointing straight going down the road?
Does the car pull either direction when you let go of the wheel?

If the answer is no then your job is getting easier.
£24 is a bit ridiculous for something that is actually quite easy.

Just do one thing real quick. Measure across both the rear tires from outer tread line to outer tread line on the other tire. Do this on the front of the tires then move to the back.
Tell me the distance difference between the two measurements.

What car is it anyway?
Edit: oh Proton Wira.. right.

Last edited by skstibi, Tue 27 Oct 2009, 16:41.

WOO VTEC KICKED IN! about 30 laps ago when the race started......
Seriously, what's the point?
The XFG pulls good from 5000-8000rpm and you are above 6000 95% of the time so there is no need.

I am sorry. Changing oil during a race? They don't even do that in 24 hour races!
It is not required, if it is then your engine has more apparent problems.
The only oil related thing I can think of to do for a race is have someone clean off the oil cooler if the oil is getting hot.

Quote from MAD3.0LT :

lol then again i have NO fing idea how to set the injector pules's and duty the ECU turning is fuking confusing

Do I see a pattern here?

You are for it and have no idea how to go about it.
I know exactly how to do it all (I have done it) and I don't care for having it in LFS. You got some details wrong but close enough. I am not going to explain how that headache works.

I hope to be a future old Diesel BMW owner. Something like the old 324
Or Mercedes...:hide:

Last edited by skstibi, Mon 26 Oct 2009, 17:57.

This turned out to be excellent fun. All the NGT and GT2 guys were great, making it easy to pass and keeping it clean. Does get interesting when going 3 wide into a corner

I caused two timeouts for team SRLT. Computer shut down then my ISP decided to turn off my cable modem (oh yes, they got a very nasty phone call at 1.45 AM)

Quote from Flingoko :

ok race so far our 4th driver had a pc crash earlier this day, so the reserve drivers a called in 18th place at the time, could be bether but its ok.

Don't feel too bad. I had a PC overheat and shut down on the SRLT team. I was afraid of my connection, not my computer doing thermal meltdown!

Well, since this is the "Sorry" thread...

Sorry to those GT2 guys that kept running into the back of me at the turn after the 1st gear hairpin. I am not used to so much turbo lag.
Thanks for the speed boost though!

Quote from tobiasu :

Idle oil pressure isn't spec'd for a moving engine that is subject to cornering forces.
*snip*
and doesn't have mechanical wear because it's only compressing and expanding air)

Now back to lurking...

:jawdrop: BS much?
For one you can put about any car in neutral and fling it around a corner as hard as you can and you won't lose any oil pressure, modern oil pans have baffles to keep the oil in the lower portion of the pan where the pickup is. The oil passage ways in an engine do not care what g-forces are going on, as long as they are not blocked and the oil pickup is still in oil you will not lose oil pressure or flow around a corner.

The only time I have seen any oil pressure loss is going balls to the wall around a corner and sucking the oil pan dry, or the engine gets hot and the oil gets thinner and you will lose some pressure there.

For the second part of that quote, as long as the engine is cranking around there WILL be wear to one part or another.
An engine is always "compressing and expanding air" The only difference is when you add fuel it creates heat in the process. Either way, there is wear to your piston rings, bearings, oil pump gears, timing chain (and or belt), camshaft, lifters, etc.


I am not trying to pick fights here, I am just trying to get some facts straight.
What is the oil pressure of your car at an idle? My cars range from 55-80 PSI at an idle. That is the "minimum" sure but it is not anywhere even close to being a low pressure at an idle.

Last edited by skstibi, Fri 16 Oct 2009, 05:08.

I will start this off on the beginning topic and work the flaming from there.
It is more economical to use higher RPM and less throttle. If any of you have done ECU programming you would obviously know that. The more load that is applied to the engine the more FUEL and less ignition advance is applied.

Perfect example: Car is supercharged.
Going up the hill in lets say 3rd gear doing lets call it 3500 rpm, at that RPM the engine is happy to maintain the speed without major throttle input (lets call it 20% throttle).
Now, for the same car going up the same hill in high gear at lets say 1200 rpm, the engine is not happy doing that low of RPM so you apply throttle to compensate for the lack of power, well guess what you are pushing that pedal down quite a lot more (lets call it 40% for the hell of it) well, you are screwing yourself, power enrich cut in at 35% throttle and you are dumping lots of fuel in now!
(I know, N/A power enrich is at around 80-90% throttle in fairly modern cars)

Slipping cars into neutral going down hills all depends on the car and the hill. You can do whatever pleases you. On steep mountain roads I do one up on you turkeys! I leave the car in gear AND turn the ignition off, Power brakes work, power steering works, speedometer works (*cough*in some cars). I would not suggest turning the ignition back on while still in gear with the engine rotating as your muffler may go boom boom.
Still I see no point of slipping a modern car with fuel cutoff into neutral going down hills

If your car does not decelerate when you let off it is probably made in japan, or you are in america and the car has an automatic.
I have been messing around with tuning cars and it is up to the tune as to if your car barely slows down when you let off or if you let off and your face impacts the steering wheel.

Now the freakin guy who said holding his clutch in is a great alternative to slipping the car into neutral will NEVER be allowed near any of my cars and should be shot.
Go ahead force that crank into the front engine bearing, dig the deepest rut into that crankshaft as you can! Take out every rod and main bearing, that's right keep going until the thing starts knocking! You think I am kidding? Think again.

Quote from samjh :

That "less than a second" can mean the difference between hitting something and stopping a few inches short.

Hahaha, all so true! I have been in a situation where if I reacted half a second later to some idiot in a Lexus that panic stopped right there in front of me of me, the world would have had one less annoying Lexus with those blinding junk headlights. (I was in a large pickup truck loaded with one heavy load of iron cargo)

Quote from tristancliffe :

It you drive a Porsche, then the brakes are the one bit you CAN rely on. They are the best bit of the car!!!

I beg to differ. You should try my heater! My brakes do work very well too but so does the engine. Only thing that has gone wrong is my A/C relay and the previous owner neglected to change the timing belt...


I probably missed a couple points which I am sure someone will point out in the near future.

Last edited by skstibi, Thu 15 Oct 2009, 04:28.

I stick my bird finger up anyway
I would enjoy having the bird finger actually work. Might keep me from chasing people down and giving them a "remember me?!" bump.
They only spin if they brake check me..

I would have loved to have flipped this guy the bird finger...

I have a dog with issues.

Quote from R34king :

You live in New Zealand but you seem too have a virginia number plate... or some sht

When I started my LFS account I was in NZ. I am in the f****** u.s now. I am planning on going back and I don't feel like having an american flag next to my name.

Sometimes it is not worth trying.

Last edited by skstibi, Sat 3 Oct 2009, 05:37.

Not the thread I was looking for but why not!
My main car that I drive the most.

1989 Porsche 944 2.7L
Guards red
Black leather interior.
I know my front end is missing a piece, bought it that way and will fix some time.

I don't have many pictures of the car so excuse the poor quality one and the dirty interior. At least she shines and runs really well (considering the ~170hp).

Yeah... almost all cars that have computer controlled fuel injection have a rev limiter. Some are right at redline, some are way past.
Older cars with carburetors were limited when the engine blew, the intake/ exhaust could not flow any more, thus it would not go any faster.
I could walk outside, start up my VW bug, and hold it wide open until It runs out of fuel.

Most of the cars in LFS are fine but the FZR and FZ5 for example are hitting peak power about 200rpm before the rev limiter cuts in, that is a bit too close in my opinion.

Quote from aoun :

The design will be made out of MDF wood, so make sure you understand what can be done with MDF. No bars/framing etc, just a shell pretty much.

Damn... I already built my cockpit/ The only problem is it is all frame. Never got around to building the shell.

I like the design of mine. Shifter is in a good location, pedals are angled, wheel at perfect height and I even have myself a real seat from a Pontiac Fiero. I even have a switch panel for my headlights and other things.

I'll see if I can get motivated to design something for you. Something that fits your requirements..
Just one thing, How tall are you?

I have been looking through this thread. it is 20 pages long and about 15 pages worth is people complaining and others complaining about complaining. I know my post does not help much but hey...

LFS Developers cannot make everyone happy. Take any game and you will have people that buy it and are not happy with it, there is no way to help that.
If you are not happy with LFS, then set it aside and go play something else for a while. You will probably come back fairly soon.

Let me ask you this. Would you rather pay the extra $24 or whatever it is to upgrade or would you rather quit and try your luck on another game? Games are expensive, the last two games I bought I played for 5 minutes before I uninstalled and put them on my shelf. That was $80 down the hole. (That was the last NFS I ever bought and Toca 3 SUCKED)

Sorry if some of us are happy with LFS and we are happy things are getting fixed as well as things getting added in.
I don't see why people are moaning about the new content. Adding the VWS will bring fixed tires, fixed suspension, along with a few other things that are getting FIXED.

Sorry if you see the added content and think that nothing is getting fixed. Just think about it.

I will be there with my £12 as soon as the S3 License is available.
Great work! One of my favorite tracks coming to LFS.

Quote from r4ptor :

Haha.. Good one!
For those who did not get it here is a hint.
Look at the teeth of the top girl, if you can't see what is wrong then it is not my problem

Quote from Matrixi :

Speaking of annoying curbs..

Now THOSE are the ones that need complaining about. This one gets me a lot.
Forget the ones that are a little too tall.

Quote from theblackrabbi :

haven't you seen races on tv? i mean im sure you have....dont you see those guys hugging the corners?

why cant i do that without worrying about flipping?

I watch lots of racing. Normally the cars don't flip because they have a low center of gravity and don't have to worry about it.
I have seen a VW Jetta TDI go WAY up on 2 wheels, almost flip it and come back down (I think he won the race too). But that was hitting a high curb (like the one you are complaining about) and the driver knew what to do to bring it back.. It is not that hard.
I don't see many hatchback race cars on a track but I can bet that they would flip quite easily if they did what you were trying.

You just have to avoid touching certain curbs.