I am good at a lot of things in LFS (mostly racing and being so close to someones bumper they can see my eyeballs) but I don't know how they are going to choose.
I have some really good ones stored. I am kinda going through them now.
This one is one that I did earlier today. As per normal, there is lots of carnage in the first few corners. Mostly consists of a FZR (me) trying like hell to get away from a XRR while both cars are pulling away from the pack. Lap 7 was interesting for me, I was talking on the phone and trying to so the rest with my other hand (I use G25 with the H shifter and all 3 pedals with NO assists).
On lap 10 there is a battle for the lead, XRR tried some moves under braking.
Well, For some reason I can't find any replays before April 2008.
Ok, after 3 hours of waiting and about 30 attempts to upload, I give up. Something is wrong.
I have been doing tests (without 0.5F, just looking at videos and power ratings) and it seems like if they just put slicks on the car for a current version, it would not be hard to drive. I drove my LX with the same power rating as the LX8 but instead of slicks I had to use road super.
The way it drives and the way it looks in videos is about the same, just .5F used slicks that apparently had no traction.
Someone find me a slickmod that works for patch Y and I will show how much it has changed.
Ever heard of using your memory? My motorcycles don't have gear indicators, I use something called MEMORY! Whoa.. Strange aint it
If you have a problem doing that............ You might want to see a doctor.
There is nothing wrong with it saying FXO. The car is made from a FXO. In real life, it is far easier/cheaper to use the original panel instead of having to get one SPECIALLY made for that one car every time it gets broken.
Technically, it is still a FXO. Just modified a tad bit
Well, if you look at all the adjustments you can make to the cars in LFS, it is not that accurate to real "road" cars that are stock. Look at all the adjustments you can do with the things... That is not with stock parts and honestly, being able to adjust brake power/ balance is quite an easy modification.. I can do all that in my Pontiac but I choose to only use the Balance adjustment. With what I have, power can be changed by poping the hood and turning a knob. Same with balance.
Currently, I like to be able to lock all 4 wheels on command if needed. I can get out of some prety hairy T1 situations by locking the wheels for a moment and sliding around crashing cars where sharply turning runs a high risk of spinning and ending up with the rest of the twisted mess. Sure it gives flatspots but I would rather that than having a damaged car.. tires change far faster than damage can get repaired..
I am not against the idea of being able to adjust braking power seeing as not all of us have wheels.. I have a G25 but that is just me.
how about remove the limiters and let people blow the engine
None of my cars have one irl.. But you go too high and get valve float then a blown engine if you stay there.
The only thing that effects me is the limiter on the FZR/FZ5.. That is the one car in the entirety of LFS that I did not want them to change.. oh well.
The only problem I had was doing doughnuts in second gear with the FZ5
I did constant burnouts with the FZR (probably did 50 full out rev limit then dump the clutch) and the tires poped long before it was going to get hot. Ony thing that makes me mad is that weak clutch that does not let me leave an extra 3 feet of rubber as I smack it into second. That was my damn trademark launch with the FZR, every race start, every pit stop, every recovery of a spin
Now it sounds like a typical american sh** shift every time I try to leave that extra bit of rubber (no offence to the small % of americans who actually can shift properly)
I don't have many problems other than the clutch. The clutches just don't have the right load capabilitis. I might understand it if it was like that in a lower quality road car but not in a GTR or Formula. I mean hell, if my car acted like the ones in LFS, I would pull that clutch out and play chuck the thing back to china . Other than that, it is bloody briliant! I don't have any problems with the clutch heat anymore but still.
To answer a question, AI's have no clue how to function when he clutch gets hot or how to deal with tall 1st gear ratios. They fry the clutch if it has a tall 1st gear. I played with those new AI and figured out that if I hand brake turn infront of them causing me to hold their car back with mine, they keep cooking the clutch in high gear until they run out of fuel.
well, the thing I can think of that needs to be fixed more than the rest is the clutch. The cars act like they have motorcycle clutches on them. When you shift a car in real life the clutch does not continue slipping after you have let it all the way out unless you have a really really cheap clutch.
Currently in LFS with a new clutch that is still cold slips like hell when you shift. Even my car with a clutch that is a bit too small grabs harder than anything in LFS. When I let my clutch out, I expect it to grab right then and there, not slip a half second extra. If you keep doing shifts like that it will eventually start slipping as it heats up.
Cue-ball got it. If your clutch is set up properly, your friction point is in the center of the travel. On my car (lets say it is 6" of travel) push the clutch down 2 inches, nothing happens. Let it up 2 inches from the bottom, nothing happens. Let it up another inch and if your foot is not on the throttle, the engine will die very quickly.
On my sisters truck (with a clutch that is set up totally wrong and I need to fix it) the friction point is at the top. Push the clutch in 2 inches and it is disengaged. It is just dead in the rest of the 4 inches.
With LFS my clutch pedal moves about 3 inches (damn logitech can't get it right )I let it up half way and it starts to bite and the rest of the travel is made wrong. I can be floored and push the clutch down just a little (about a half inch) and it slips all the way through until it disengages about half way down.
I was in that calibration window and watching the clutch axis in the calibration window then looking at the clutch bar. The calibration window sees my foot coming half way up the pedal before the regular blue clutch bar showed movement.
lol.. Umm. I would not have my clutch in my real car overheat while doing doughnuts. I just did it in LFS and my clutch went out And no.. I was not clutch kicking the entire time.
Has anyone else noticed that the shift points stayed at the same PRM so when you try to go by the shift light, you hit the rev limiter before it turns on?
Plus, I have always used 120 FOV and I used the digital speedometer and now after X30, I cannot read the numbers on my speedometer at all.
If Scawen codes having to hold the clutch in to start the car I will be pissed. I have owned cars with that damn switch and after the first hour of owning it I Fix it (unplug the switch and short out the two wires)
The clutch in LFS right now is not right. It has no friction point, it just slips less when you let the clutch out that much. It is a bit like a... Hmm... Like your kitchen sink... the more water you want, the more you open the valve..(sorry, kitchen sink was the only thing I could think of)
I am just curious if this changed in the new patch. If it did and it has a true friction point, I will be a very happy camper (will have to be set properly for me to be happy)
I hope they fix the part of poping the clutch like a retard in a road car bit... Yeesh. Full boost, AWD, clutch pop= Death to something real quick in real life.
Here is a project that I started working on but then realized that I need a bit more practice with object editing before I can finish it. It still looks good so...