This is a very good suggestion imo, at least untill something is done about the slick tyre compounds. Using anything other than R2's even in long races is pointless so there's little reason to practice on lower grip R3's. Once I'm accustomed to a track I can handle the temps peaking a bit high but when first practicing it would be a real help to not have to deal with them spiking so high due to not knowing the track well and overcooking them.
We have the V8 Brutes here in Australia which are quite popular (we call them Utes not pickups, hence the Br-utes )
They seem like they're quite fun to drive, the back end is light so they do get a little taily and provide some good racing.
If people think it's a good idea to race GTi's then I don't see why we shouldn't race utes.
From memory there's something like 42 sections on each tyre, so 14 sections for each of the inner, middle and outer sections of each tyre.
Like others have said hit F9 and if you see flashing colour on the tyre tread it's likely you have a flat spot (depending on the severity it could just be a hot spot).
rFactor does look like it will be quite good but I just can't see it tearing me away from LFS.
My understanding is that the demo won't be released untill after the full release which seems very strange and worries me just a little. It just doesn't make much sense and I wonder if there's some ulterior motive behind it. I don't expect there is but it is curious.
The tuning aspect of the game also worries me a touch, I would expect there to be some very strict server side class restrictions to provide fair online competition. If it comes down to just having to have all the upgrades to compete I feel that will be to it's detriment.
There's some quite strange anti-LFS sentiment around the place and I have to admit I wouldn't mind seeing rFactor fail just to stick it up some of these people. To be honest though I wish ISI luck and hope it does turn out to be good.
I probably didn't word things very well and the thought process wasn't quite right. The point I was making is setting both spring and damper to 0% is removing these forces from play (whether they are completely removed is a little unclear). It will change the balance of things in regards to the forces that do remain but seems to largely result in people having to compensate and ramp up the overall strength.
If this is how you like it then there's nothing wrong with that from my pov.
My settings on my Momo Racing are basically the defaults apart from the centering spring fix. In LFS I have strength at 45%. It seems that most don't like these settings, maybe it's just what I'm used to but I feel I get all the feedback I need.
btw with regards to oscillation, I maybe should test it a bit as I virtually never drive without at least one hand on the wheel. So it is possible I do still get some oscillation but nothing that simply resting my hand on the wheel won't stop.
As you don't have a Logitech wheel it seems you may be getting 'Spring' and 'Centering Spring' mixed up a bit. They bear no relation to one another, most people in this thread refering to their spring settings are not talking about the centering spring.
Imo it shouldn't be necessary and for me it isn't necessary. I have no problems whatsoever with oscillation in any car and I never change any of my ffb settings ever. Not in the CP or in LFS (well I did slightly adjust strength in LFS when S2 came out ) Imo oscillation is a sign you have the ffb set too strong.
Anyway it is pretty wheel specific it seems and down to personal preference but seeing as I have no problems doing so, not adjusting settings for cars gives me a nice feel for the difference in different cars. Jump from the XR GT or something similar into a GTR and I can feel the difference of the wide slicks on the front and the extra resistance they cause in the steering. Jump into the LX4 and it's all a lot looser, as I figure it's supposed to be (could be wrong here though).
Anyway, I'm pretty satisfied now that as I thought, the spring and damper settings are integral to the ffb supplied by a Logitech wheel and do not add any forces not generated by the game. They simply provide a means to balance the two main forces the wheel generates according to personal preference.
As an aside, my theory is that setting both spring and damper to 0% does little to change the nature of the ffb in LFS except to lower the overall strength of these forces. I figure this is why people who do so also tend to use quite high overall force in the CP and within LFS as they're simply compensating the lack of ffb strength overall.
btw, thanks AndroidXP for posting those comments from Scawen.
All this talk made me look into things a bit more about adjusting the 'damper' and 'spring' forces as I don't believe it is right to recommend they should be set to zero. I came across this, apparently tom writes the drivers for the logitech wheels.
I'd quote some of the text but can't seem to paste into the reply window.
Essentially what he says is that the defaults (overall force 100%, damper 100% & spring 100%) will give you what is intended by the programmer. I'd like to see what the devs say about this, from memory and what woz said the devs have said that 0% is best for spring and damper. It would be nice if one of them could clarify this for us all.
btw, I also agree with bob that it shouldn't be necessary to adjust ffb for different cars.
Thanks that worked, there was nothing in my sig though, I suppose when I deleted it the first time somehow it didn't delete it all or something. Dunno and thanks again
btw, I have no option to check to include my sig anymore either so it's definately fixed.
Sorry I didn't make my post very clear. I meant that not allowing the option of not repairing damage for the sake of penalising drivers was nonsense. I actually appreciate the point a bit more now but still don't agree with it.
Well I could be wrong but my understanding of it all is that setting them to zero is like telling the wheel to ignore all the information that the game is sending it.
In the end I think ffb is so subjective that you should just adjust things until you find what is right for you.
I've also seen it recommended that you should set damper to 0% but it just felt terrible to me, no resistance in the wheel whatsoever and a weird click/bump as the cars weight would shift from one side to the other. Spring and Damper are the two main forces produced by the wheel, putting either to 0% just doesn't make sense imo.
Edit: Talking in relation to the Momo Racing here.
Personally I'm wondering when the USA is going to get it's damn act together and switch already. C'mon, we made the switch in the 60's, USA is 50 years behind the times
Inside the tyre the colour represents the temperature, originally there was a figure representing the temperature as well but I believe it was removed as it was causing confusion. Most people would say you want the inner temp to be at optimal, they meant the inner surface area but people were mistaking this for the inside temp.
Your correct about the sidewalls of the tyre, you usually don't need to worry about these much but I believe if they start getting red it indicates that they may be flexing too much. In which case some more pressure should help, but that will in turn effect the surface temperatures. So it's all a bit of a balancing act
btw that link in the wiki you provided doesn't work for me.
Just to clear this point up, LFS will never have this effect 'coded into the force feedback'. LFS takes it's ffb directly from the forces exerted on the front wheels in game.
Now I'm not saying it's perfect and I don't have the experience to really comment on what you feel in a real car when the front wheels understeer. If there is something wrong though it's more than likely somewhere in the physics engine, most likely suspension or tyres.
Not that I've even played it but you guys should know that even the Pro mode has driving aids enabled. You can fix this in the .plr file or something or using the function keys, iirc the hud has little lights that indicate if an aid is on or not.
This is typical Simbin crap to be honest, are they purposely trying to turn away sim racers by having them play a demo where no-one even realises there's secret aids on? What a joke.
Hmm, seems I would have to do it every post, every quick post as well. I'm pretty sure on other forums I used if your sig is empty nothing is displayed.
Yeah I'm not against the idea of more realistic starts but there is something to be said for the simplicity of the current system in LFS. Also it's not correct to say that you can simply give full throttle all the time at the start. Different cars require different throttle amounts and modulation to get off the line. So there still is some technique to it.
That's interesting you put your hazards on to show appreciation to another racer, I've never heard of that before. Normally I'll just hit the smiley face chat bind.