Quote from Rathalos888 :

Thanks guys. Is there still a good amount of races going on daily? Or are there only like, 3 servers with anyone in them, and they aren't even racing, generally speaking, on a day to day basis?

Also, I have that Logitech gamepad that was mentioned earlier. With it would I still have t do all the stuff I had to to try to get the 360 controller working? Meh whatever, I'll try it out. Thanks again.

Not compared to what LFS once was. While some good servers are still around, the amount of racers online has decreased significantly. This is even more evident because you're in the U.S. - you'll need to race around noon to be online when the most players are on.

Quote from JPeace :

Please stop trying to sound like Martin Luther-King. The devs do not care if the whole community disapears, it will simply reappear once S3 comes out, nothing the community can do will change when the release date will be - please cut the bs.

No.

Quote from e2mustang :

yep every one is gone,no1 gives a flying F about lfs anymore.Maybe once an update comes they`ll check back.

Too bad it seems like this has gone the way of Duke Nukem Forever (DNF, lol).

Post replay.

However, it sounds like you're leaving too much countersteer angle as the yaw angle decreases.

So I haven't really played LFS in around a year and a half... I had to focus more on school well before this announcement was made.

Now I have some time to check back and LFS seems... dead (even when I play at what used to be the most popular time to play with the Europeans). Mostly a bunch of demo servers and around half of the S2 players are in cruise servers (those losers are still around? LOL).

Did I just come back at a bad time or has the userbase really degraded this much?

ITT: Europeans realize Americans are dumb.
Don't act so surprised

I was reading that ATI's 4870 and 4890 cards were having a trouble with this game. As I'm soon to upgrade my PC (either one of those cards or dual 4770s), I was wondering what the current situation was for these graphics cards and for the PC version in general.

Quote from mrodgers :

The problem with your statement here, as well as the statements made by everyone myself included, is we all think in terms of our own specific needs, uses, and locations. It is easy to be in San Francisco and say "most people don't need 4WD." I can say that 2 days after trading my Toyota in for Wifey's new "car" I was missing my 4WD very much. It took me 2.5 hours to drive my 20 miles home from work. I was stuck and every hill it took me at least 3 tries to get up because I had her old car instead of her new 4WD/AWD Tribute.

Oh, so because I'm from San Francisco you assume I've never been to places with harsh weather? Nice.

Most of the families that I know in Salt Lake City (in the mountains and down in the valley, where most people live) drive sedans, most of the families I know in California have SUVs. If the people I know in SLC needed trucks or SUVs, they'd have them.

Quote from RiseAgainstMe! :

My opinion on the reason for the big vehicles here vs. small vehicles in Western Europe is the population density:
http://www.theglobaleducationp ... /g-gpw-population-map.gif
The population density of Europe lends itself to a very different lifestyle than here. I live in a major population center here (the suburbs of Detroit [yes mr. rogers, love them wings]), but that is about as dense as the country-side there according to that map. Small cars are certainly logical in many situations here, but there are vast areas of the country where the type of driving/lifestyle does not favor small cars. England looks very similar to New Jersey, which is about the only environment that lends itself well to a majority of econo-boxes here.

There are also many areas of the US that are literally impossible to access by car (you need a truck or SUV). Yes, I have tried to navigate a few in a small rental car. It was not a positive experience. I'm just glad the rental company apparently never noticed the new, less monotonous paintjob among other problems.

I am, however alarmed by the amount of middle-aged mothers that feel they need a SUV for driving little suzy/jimmy two miles to school every day and for picking up the groceries.

I think the last point you made is more significant than the others. Most people don't need 4WD to get to work (even in Winter). Of the few that do, most of them only need it when there's snow/ice on the ground.

Back on topic:
GM says it'll come back stronger but unless they start making changes in their decision making process, such as canceling the future failure that is the Volt, they're still doomed.

Quote from MadCat360 :

The only reason why they wouldn't require blipping would be because the engine management does it itself. IE, on formula cars.

Last time I checked, only the BF1 had anything like that.

Note that I italicized the word sometimes. There are situations where you're downshifting so fast that you don't need to blip the throttle.

Quote from Driver 8 :

Playing with a Driving Force Pro and using the paddle shift I'm a bit confused as to gear shifting.
I tend to race all cars but sometimes struggle to establish whether I should be lifting off the gas or not to change gear.
I've learned that the slower road cars need the lift as I would expect but the single seaters and the FZR (and the other 2) I'm not sure about.
I'm ashamed to say I'm using downloaded setups and is it perhaps specified in those whether a lift is required or not?
This would explain why sometimes a lift is required in a specific car and other times not (changes with track I think)
I've been through the manual but not really found anything about how the auto clutch should be used (I don't have a cluch pedal).
Is there anything written down about how the gear changes work for the in game cars. I have destroyed my clutch a couple of times and assume it's because I'm incorrectly shifting. But it all seems a bit random.
Any help, greatly appreciated

There's no randomness to it. Some cars have H-pattern transmissions while others have sequential transmissions. It seems that you understand this.

Road cars and the FZR have H-pattern transmissions- you shift just like you would when you drive on the road IRL.

Race cars (excluding FZR) have sequential transmissions- you don't need the clutch (all) or to lift (excluding the FBM) to shift up. Downshifting sometimes doesn't require blipping the throttle because these cars have such strong brakes.

If you are forgetting to blip the throttle on downshifts, that might be one source of your clutch wear.

Quote from Mojimo :

Well, I've been "playing" this for a few weeks now, and I've noticed something about the set-ups used by the top tier drivers, they all seem very "loose" to me. When I try and use their set-ups, I have a very difficult time keeping the rear-end in check. I've been working on getting a good time on BL GP with the FBM, and as of yet I'm still 5sec out from the top time. Is there something inherent in having a car so prone to oversteer that is fundamental to better lap times? Thanks in advance for info/advice/revelations/epiphanies and other life/race changing input. Mojimo

In short, yes. A setup that oversteers can, in certain circumstances, be faster than one that understeers. Oversteer can be corrected by countersteering but understeer is usually corrected by going slower.

Specifically, an oversteer-prone setup works well for the FBM because, amongst other factors, its engine is not very strong. In most cases, the low torque means that the rear tires will be able to provide more grip than the front tires before slipping. When this happens, one generally needs to release the throttle to regain front grip which means that the overall speed will be lower. On the other hand, a car with less rear grip or more front grip will possibly be able to take the corner at a faster pace because it will be able to hold the line without risk of understeer.

Quote from Pablo Donoso :

Other threads have subjects, this one is solely about what YOU yourselves would do to LFS, anything you have in mind, even if it's been posted elsewhere, it's not about voting yes or no, this is about what YOU want LFS to be, if you had your way....

I'm sure everyone has something they wish to do with LFS, so post it here, but please, whether it's good or bad, don't criticize them, this is about doing what you want, not about what you think of what others want, so tell us what you'd love to see, I bet Scawen would get some killer ideas.
_______________________________________

1) Modes - rather than having to look through servers to find one you want, and also in single player and training, there should be modes to choose from.

- Arcade (quick race) no tire wear, no fuel use, no damage, only penalties for speeding or wrong direction would be allowed. Cars can also reset.
Car physics would be preset so all cars are equal.

- Normal (regular) all normal rules apply, penalties on, tire wear on, fuel use on, damage on, cars can't be reset, and setups are on.

- Simulation (experts) same as normal mode, except all penalties are enforced by either a black flag, or penalty pitstop. Yellow flag infractions also apply, such as not slowing down when entering a zone with a standing yellow flag.

- Drift (exhibition) is just for the drifters, no penalties, damaga can be on or off, same for fuel and tires, but tires would last a lot longer for more action with less pitstops. Car physics would make the car slightly easier to turn without spinning out fully, also for more playability. Points system is also always on.

- Drag (competition) Same as already is, no changes

- Trials (practice) there is a practice mode as is, this would be the same, except an ability to fine tune settings on the fly, so you can adjust setups DURING the session, to better see how it performs, without wasting time back and forth in the pits.
_______________________________________

2) ADD AN "INBOUND CAR" MESSAGE TO DRIVERS EXITING THE PITSTALL TO AVOID CRASHES IN THE PITS. Cars pull out of the pits with no clue that theres a car already in the pit lane heading their direction. It would flash a message saying "inbound car, caution" until the car passes the stall your in, then it would say "pit is clear", making pitstops a bit safer. Anyone that pulls out during the inbound car message has no excuse and cannot say "I didn't know the other car was there"
_______________________________________

3) MAKE RACE LIGHT START UNIFORMLY, I hate that the light can start anytime, it has no regularity, it could be 2 seconds, or 8 seconds from the last red light till the green. Make all lights go off in 1.5 second intervals.
_______________________________________

There's more I'd do, but those are the ones I'd do first, especially arcade mode. Im more into sims myself, however the point of an arcade mode is to have fun and do it with ease, not worrying about setups or pits.

Thanks for your time people

- sebby

1) In many cases, these modes are already in place in one form or another. An arcade version would be the opposite of what most LFS players want.

2) Although there could be a benefit for an "incoming car" warning, that benefit would be too small to warrant any time being spent on it.

3) The lights go off at random intervals so good starts require good reactions.

Overall, your suggestions are redundant and show a lack of understanding of idea behind LFS: "LFS S2 is a serious racing simulator. No arcade modes, no steering aids - YOU have to do the driving."

Quote from Mountaindewzilla :

Flame-bait.

Deal with it. Call it what you want but it's true.

Most drifters IRL have a terrible habit of just buying random, low quality suspension parts and throwing them on the car without thinking about whether or not they actually need them. Outside of the pro level and especially outside of the groups of people who go to the track, this is very common.

In LFS, every "drift setup" that I've tried that hasn't been close to a default setup has had at least one "crutch" in it- either the rear suspension was completely messed up (constantly bottoming out or way too stiff) or the rear wheels have too much positive camber.

http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/Basic_Setup_Guide
http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/Advanced_Setup_Guide

IMO the setup info is better here, mainly because the figures from your source are, for the most part, unusable in LFS (different units of measurement) and, because the information is from a drifting website, the data is probably less useful for LFS (drifters tend to have poorly setup cars).

The information isn't wrong, just redundant given the vast amounts of information in the manual and on the web.

Quote from f4sttr@ck :

Amazing how everyone thinks american cars suck... lol. How many of you have actually driven one? And how many of you are just going on what everyone else says? And I lol'ed at the guy who said they are slow. Have u ever seen a viper go 0-60 in 3.8 seconds. That slow? I've seen videos of vipers keeping right up with ferrari's with no problem, and btw, they handle pretty well too . As for those who think they just understeer all over the place, You do realize that a 400 bhp bmw will do this as well? Its not about the car but about the skill of the driver, and idk why everyone yells that they handle horribly, because honestly, unless you have drove an american car, how the hell do you know how it handles. I've never had a problem handling an american car. No it dosent handle like an evo or a miata, but it will sure as hell keep up. Any idiot can floor a high horse power car around a bend and slam it into a wall. I really dont think half of you have the skill to drive one and thats why you think they cant handle. Basically, if you dont know what your talkin about, and half you dont, shut ur trap and actually go drive one.

As for the muscle cars i would like to see in lfs

1967 shelby gt500

Ford GT40(i know, more of a supercar)

2007 corvette Z06(also considered a supercar, but would love to smoke these ppl that think american cars suck, and believe me, it will)

2005 mustang cobra

1968 camaro ss

and others, but this post is rather long as it is.

Just stop. You're making the rest of us look bad.

Quote from imthebestracerthereis :

Who here uses craigslist.org? I'm selling my iPod Touch, and wanted to know how many people actually use this or post it on ebay. I'd rather it be craigslist because its more local, so no scammers etc, but I'm sure most of you would suggest eBay

Suggestions?

What exactly do you need suggestions for? You seem to be able to type and have internet access. It doesn't seem like a difficult choice.

Craigslist is free, easy, and often very fast (in my area, at least). I don't see why you wouldn't at least try it.

I missed the race last year but I'm glad that I made it this year. It was good fun and the weather was very nice compared to past years. Laguna Seca's one of the best tracks for the spectators, period.

Stoner's a crybaby. He needs to shut up and grow up. His excuses are getting old. When he loses it's always something- never him. Honestly, I think the sport would be better off without him and his constant whining.

Oh and stop complaining about poor coverage on the BBC. America is #1 when it comes to poor race commentary

Quote from Intrepid :

http://www.indy500.com/videos/ ... _Pit_Lane_At_Watkins_Glen

Wow... and this is a pro driver?

Quote from drift01010 :

i just want to learn to drift.

You're a tool.

You're buying a RHD car for driving in America? Tool.
You're planning on importing a car from Japan that you can buy here in LHD, 100% legal form? Tool.
You want to learn to drift in one of these cars? Tool.

Get off the bandwagon and get an econobox. You'll cause less damage when you screw up your mad tyte dorifuto0000, yo0 :riceboy:

Quote from jayhawk :

Well that is wonderful information and all, but there is no such thing as a SR20DET sold in North America.

Now, listen to a person who works for Nissan North America, and more importantly, works in a parts department for Nissan. Stay with the KA24. Don't be a sheep and do what everyone else is doing, who says their method is right? Let us run down the virtues of the KA24DE:

• It appeared in a million plus cars and trucks.
  
• Parts are very cheap and plentiful.
  
• Used engines are very cheap.
  
• The engine was made to be abused.
  
• Gobs of usable torque.
  
• Practical for everyday use.

So let us say you get that SR20 slapped in, didn't the upgraded water pump, and you go to drift event, and your engine locks up solid. Why? Because you only get to overheat that engine once and then kiss it goodbye. What then? Can you go to your local dealer or aftermarket parts place and get what you need?

Nope. You have to wait, and you will pay. Oh yes, you will pay.

Check it out: I sell parts to a major, nationally known Nissan/Mitsubishi tuning shop, and they buy enough parts in a month to beef up 5-6 KA24's. Every month. What do you think they tell their customers; do you think they lie to them, tell them to drop in a SR20, and magically their car will be a monster, or are they honest with their customers (like I am with you right now), and tell them use what they already have?

With a little work, you can have 300 real world horsepower out that KA24, and be able to live with it everyday. Yes 300, not 400 like you want. But think of this in straight line performance: a 240SX with that kind of power will do 12's all day long, and get you home with no problems.

Am I saying that the SR20DET is a bad engine? Oh, hell no! It is a wonderfully over engineered piece of kit. But you live in America, where they sold a sum total of zero here. You need to think in practical terms.

Agreed, although I don't think that getting JDM parts is as hard as you're making it out to be.

Also, there's no replacement for displacement

I think that this forum in particular is not the place to ask that question- mainly because a lower % of the userbase here will have experience with the engines. Most of the users here are actually MUCH smarter than those on 240sx forums (I assumed the OP'd end up going there, so I was talking about those users).

From my experience, 240sx forums are good for general knowledge that one could get just looking at the specs of two engines. Beyond that, however, information is rarely found on said forums and is sometimes wrong. Hence, why I said to look it up instead of asking.

I'm not saying this to be a jackass. This is simply what I've seen and so I thought I'd try to spare him the headache of dealing with 240sx forums.

Quote from jonny dank :

i think this is the right place to post, but anyway i just bought 93 240sx and im looking for around 400+rwhp. ive never owned or done any work on a nissan so im pretty clueless. So im asking, what motor RB, CA18?, turbo size?, piston size? anything will help- thanks

Do some research on your own- asking internet forum users will get you opinions from idiots while looking up your own info will get you facts (hopefully from smart people)

Honestly, I don't think you should be doing this. From what I can gather about the questions you asked (feel free to prove me wrong), you lack the knowledge required to do something like this.

Very nice!

Quote from Funnybear :

FXR if driven and setup right can wipe the floor against most comers, but it needs to be driven on that slippy slidey knife edge to get the most out of it . . . If you can control the rotation and the power application it kicks sand in everythings face. But that what makes it so hard to drive to the max.

I personally favour the FZR, always have, and untill they bring in V8's probs always will. It's big, gorgeous, the engine is at least at the right end of the car if not on the right side of the axle and once you learn to setup and control that big 'ol rear end it's a joy to drive. In my eyes it's the middling car for people like me who just don't have it for the FXR but can at least get near to getting the most out of the FZR.

The XRR. It's, well, it's kinda . . . It's just . . . . . Well, it's . . . It's dull! I know some afficionado's will flame me for this but it's the noobs car. It holds the road, it'll go round corners and it'll go fast down the straights. Mostly without causing the driver too many 'I appear to be facing the on coming pack' moments.

So, it's the FXR in my eyes that is the most difficult to drive but once mastered is the most ultimatley rewarding plus it can't get out of sandtraps hehe.

My ten pence worth.

I don't agree with you about the XRR at all. I can get into corners very well with it but coming out is difficult to get the same speed as the FZR.
Are you confusing it with the FXR? The FXR can get out of sand traps much easier than the XRR, from my experience.

XRR seems like it's the hardest to drive to the limit. I can jump in the FXR and FZR and be fast on most setups, while the XRR needs a good setup and a bit more practice.