Over 20 for extreme races, not sure on the exact number
not ingame, some wheels can change it on the wheel itself
It works, but it can only be done once a day per account, so deleting a save doesn't work anymore. Need to delete the account to try again, it's hassle. It tried it just then with 1989 and all I got was a Eunos Roadster.... at least it was premium, so I'll gift it to my main account
Once you delete it you can reuse the same details I think
but it's definitely not the most time effecient way to earn money
Race cars you get can't be sold, only traded, but if you want those expensive cars, it is a way to get them
You need to create another account I think, with a birthdate year set on when those cars were made, but set the day and month to current date.
Then boot up GT5 in that account, go into GT life and you'll get a birthday car gift from that year the car was made.
Add your original account as friend, gift the car across.
Delete the account and repeat as necessary
I think that's how it's done. They patched it, so you can only gift 1 car a day per account.
Cheapens the game though, I'm not going to do it, plus creating an account is a hassle
It's in the settings section of the XMB, first menu, date and time, select use internet
http://manuals.playstation.net ... /settings/index_date.html
When your birthday comes up you'll get a gift, a car from the year your born
Just do the birthday glitch and gift yourself all those 20 million credit vintage racing cars and sell em, you should get at least 1 million back I think
Although I think PD may have patched it out now
Sounds to me like the Thermal paste is failing on the GPU.
That's what causes the YLOD on the odler PS3s, bad thermal compound, not enough space, and too much heat,
Best to open it up and apply some better thermal paste while you can now.
GT5 is 1 game in a while that relaly taxes the PS3
Good luck using other people's saves in your PS3. They might remove the copy protection but it might be account locked
I'd like to transfer my GT5 save to my other account, the GTP_CoolColJ
since I'm I'm thinking of transfering all my game cars to that account,
but I may have to replay the game from scatch on that account.
Right now I just use to give me more paint chips by gifting cars to that account and back to my main one.
Or I can just gift all the cars across, and just redo all the other stuff, which isn't that hard, just takes time
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Listen to the rev limiter and tell me if it sounds right to you? It changes pitches and slows down as you go up the gears
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg3c-grhQvU
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Only slight deformation. My Stealth Mclaren F1 got T-Boned on the Top Gear track at the crossover point and the side did get deformed and decals got scrapped off
Well this is what the effects of damage are when online for a normal premium street car. I made this video did a few weeks ago, can't believe it's got 20k views already
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaBZaFp0RQQ
I also totally smashed the rear end and wing of my LFA when I cart wheeled on Daytona, but normal crashes don't seem to do as much damage
Yeah it's handful, but a beautiful car 
Finally finished off the Kart stuff, and the final race on Autumn ring mini was heaps of fun, and felt really good, the other tracks not so much. The curbs really upset the balance of the karts.
Now I'm itching to try it against humans online
Motor Sports land from GT4 would have made a nice kart track
Finally finished off the Kart stuff, and the final race on Autumn ring mini was heaps of fun, and felt really good, the other tracks not so much. The curbs really upset the balance of the karts.
Now I'm itching to try it against humans online
Motor Sports land from GT4 would have made a nice kart track
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Yeah, I just did a SuperGT race on Fuji and Suzuka with some Japanese guys, in my Stealth NSX GT500 and I'm on racing Hards, and wondering why everyone is pulling away... turns out they must of been on racing mediums and softs...
Since racing hards was all I had, that's what I used.
The arcade cars have all tyres available though
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I had some awesome races in Prologue, this year, once all the casual crowd moves on, or once people finish up the single player side of things, online will pickup. Especially with Japanese folks
A lot of the laggy aspects are due to either people running in Wifi mode, wired is much better, and they just don't have the bandwidth to do it.
Look at the quality settings - the stars, you want this to be full or 1 star down, this determines how many packects are sent.
And the bars on the right show the latency to you
Don't bother you win it, that's how I got mine
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re Damage - online only for the moment, and cosmetic for offline
Yes, but you know the physics are better in GT5, so it's even more interesting here.
Acura DN-X concept '02 car is a pretty awesome hybrid
The battery recharges when you brake or go off gas
You get it from winning some event. Feels interesting, torquey because of the electric motor. 4WD but handles and drifts more like a MR car
Looks OK once repainted to rid the car of the dual tone paint. White seems to suit it nicely
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AI takes me for a ride
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7RA7irCeCI
The battery recharges when you brake or go off gas
You get it from winning some event. Feels interesting, torquey because of the electric motor. 4WD but handles and drifts more like a MR car
Looks OK once repainted to rid the car of the dual tone paint. White seems to suit it nicely
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AI takes me for a ride
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7RA7irCeCI
You monitor/TV needs to be HDCP compliant, otherwise HDMI won't work.
I use component for that reason, or you could buy a HDCP stripper, not cheap, like HD fury
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5:3 is probably too much unless your running race tyres.
I find 4:3 or 4:2 ok for sports tyres and heavier cars down to 3:1 for lighter cars and less grippy tyres
Just watch your tyre indicator and you'll know when it's right
Cars definitely slide more if try and trail brake with ABS off.
With ABS set to 5-10 you can trail brake deep into turns and keep control but you lose braking power
4:3 works perfect for the Veyron I was testing today on High Speed Ring right after I won it
The brakes won't lock until your under 50kph
On this setting with my squash ball mod under the brake pedal, the rears will lock a faction later after the fronts do.
IF you brake on the slope of the turn after the straight, the wheels near the top of the slope lock up first - nice touch
The unweighted side of the car
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nice tip
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Playing GT5 back to back with iRacing - to test the squash ball under the DFGT's brake pedal mod (which works rather well!) - GT5's force feedback and physics is not a miles apart from iRacing at all. GT5 even has all the bumps and chatter like iRacing, depending on the car off course. Some tracks and cars have it more so then others, stiffer suspensions will feel it more.
Both games feel quite similar IMO
You need to squeeze the squash ball in and push it as far down under the pedal arm as you go
In iRacing when you calibrate it first without, and then put it in, and leave the calibration as before, you can set the brake curve to 1, ie linear and you'll never lock your brakes again
With GT5, because it is calibrated it every time you start the game, by fully depressing it, you need to remove the ball and then put it back afterwards. Or you can leave it in, and press as hard as you can, but then you won't have the full range. You'll still have much better feel either way
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testing the RUF RGT (new purchase) on Indy road couyse was in interesting. It has loads of grip if you feed in the accelerator, I guess due to the rear engine layout. I was expecting more back end swing, but I didn't notice anymore than usual. Front end feel light though. Need to drive it differently.
Once you get a custom LSD with 60% locking, it just hammers out of turns! Plus a good suspension setup with more camber at the rear. I drove it around this track faster than my LFA :o
Replays look like crap though - standard model and not one of the good ones :/
Both games feel quite similar IMO
You need to squeeze the squash ball in and push it as far down under the pedal arm as you go
In iRacing when you calibrate it first without, and then put it in, and leave the calibration as before, you can set the brake curve to 1, ie linear and you'll never lock your brakes again
With GT5, because it is calibrated it every time you start the game, by fully depressing it, you need to remove the ball and then put it back afterwards. Or you can leave it in, and press as hard as you can, but then you won't have the full range. You'll still have much better feel either way
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testing the RUF RGT (new purchase) on Indy road couyse was in interesting. It has loads of grip if you feed in the accelerator, I guess due to the rear engine layout. I was expecting more back end swing, but I didn't notice anymore than usual. Front end feel light though. Need to drive it differently.
Once you get a custom LSD with 60% locking, it just hammers out of turns! Plus a good suspension setup with more camber at the rear. I drove it around this track faster than my LFA :o
Replays look like crap though - standard model and not one of the good ones :/
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Anyone unlock the warehouse/hangar and wind tunnel photo mode locations yet?
They're both shown in the Apex book, on p.186
I just finished B-Specing a Super GT race on Fuji. I entered my best driver and a rookie in my Stealth NSX GT500. So it was a fairly even race. Talk about a battle to finish line, finished in first by 6 seconds, and my lead driver had no strength and mental left, tyres were worn out and he was sliding on every corner
I could have entered my Mazada 787b, but where the fun in that?!
They're both shown in the Apex book, on p.186
I just finished B-Specing a Super GT race on Fuji. I entered my best driver and a rookie in my Stealth NSX GT500. So it was a fairly even race. Talk about a battle to finish line, finished in first by 6 seconds, and my lead driver had no strength and mental left, tyres were worn out and he was sliding on every corner
I could have entered my Mazada 787b, but where the fun in that?!
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DLC is region specific, so I doubt they will work on EU and US GT5s.
I don't think the Japanese didn't got these cars in their special edition
You can get the XJ13 from the Facebook promo thing, for EU GT5s
I don't think the Japanese didn't got these cars in their special edition
You can get the XJ13 from the Facebook promo thing, for EU GT5s
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Somebody was asking about the Lime Green colour of the real Ford Focus RS
Well the Ford Mach 1 premium has a similar lime green colour - I think
It looks more staturated on my PS3's side of the monitor, not so on my calibrated PC side though
The Dodge Challanger RT10 premium has a brighter version
Well the Ford Mach 1 premium has a similar lime green colour - I think
It looks more staturated on my PS3's side of the monitor, not so on my calibrated PC side though
The Dodge Challanger RT10 premium has a brighter version
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Something is wrong with the Caterham Fireblade in this game.
It's specs suggest it should be much faster than it is, but the engine is so lethargic, like maybe the flywheel is too heavy or something....
It's specs suggest it should be much faster than it is, but the engine is so lethargic, like maybe the flywheel is too heavy or something....
Prologue also had PD sponsored monthly online time trials for tuned cars. Usually with either a PP cap or a specific car and setup on a certain track.
And races as well, I expected these to be in GT5, hope they will be soon
And races as well, I expected these to be in GT5, hope they will be soon
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG