The only reason I can think of that something would look "stretched" is if you are running a resolution that does not correspond to the aspect ratio on your monitor. Therefore, that wouldn't be an issue with LFS, but rather it would be an issue with the resolution you are trying to display.
You either need to buy another controller or use another input on the controller you've got. For instance, you could use one button for gas and one for brake or you can use the throttle slider that many joysticks have as the throttle. But there's no way to make a third axis on a controller that is, by definition, two axis.
It's not a matter of resolution, it's a matter of physical size. If you're running LFS on a 17" monitor, the dials will be small no matter what resolution you are running. If you're running it on a projector, the gauges will be large - again, no matter what resolution you are running. Resolution has nothing to do with the size of the gauges, and even if it did there is absolutely no reason to put in extra code or functionality on a per-resolution basis.
I don't think most of the people here are acting spoiled at all. Quite the opposite, in fact. Many of us love this sim and really want to see it be as realistic as possible. When something as integral and important as the clutch is not working properly, I think it's our obligation to report it.
I've seen this same behavior. The worst part about it is that even with doing that quick change of line, they still fail to make the pass about 99% of the time. I think that the "passing" code is more designed for cars of different classes where the faster car is overtaking the slower car with a significant speed difference. In cars of similar speeds, rarely is there any passing in the game. The passing that is there seems to be mostly from one AI bumping the other just before a turn, which gives just enough room to get by. It would be nice to see a little more variation or, if possible, have the AI make a mistake every once in a while (enter a corner slightly too hot, brake just a little too much, etc). That would allow for a lot more variety and passing in the races.
That said, the AI are 100X better now than they were in Patch X.
I just want to say what a massive, massive improvement the new AI is. They stay on track, they pit properly, they account fuel, etc. Best of all, I can really see the difference between the Newbie and Pro levels now. Before they ran very similar times, but now the Newbie level should be good enough for beginners to keep up and pass, while the Pro level should be tough to beat, even for veteran players. Huge, huge improvement overall.
Hell, I dare say that now the AI players are faster and hold better lines than most of the humans I've played against.
It's great to hear that the patch is on schedule, but I'm still let down by the clutch behavior.
While I agree that the clutch is driveable and raceable, I personally wouldn't say that it's working quite well. While you're right that most clutches don't exceed the engine torque by great multiples, they also don't need to. As long as they have more clamping power than the engine has torque, even if it's just by a very slim margin, they don't slip. I have never, ever driven a car where the clutch would slip during powershifts unless that clutch was already very old and worn, or if it had been severely abused (lots of slipping of the clutch during launches, or "hill holding" with the clutch). In real life, clutches simply don't slip just because you made a fast shift. Either the tires will slip or the engine will bog, because the clutch is more powerful than both. Even with sticky drag radials and slicks, stock street clutches can usually hold the power no problem.
Like I said, the current clutch behavior is good enough to turn laps, but I do not believe it is realistic and I think it actually removes from the immersion.
I've been waiting with baited breath, hoping that we would get a new patch today that would fix the clutch issues. We got the patch, but the most glaring problem - the clutch slipping - isn't fixed.
I'll be patiently waiting for the next test patch, hoping that the clutch gets fixed.
Scawen said that the R1s were there purely for the MRT and to function as autocross tires, where you need them to heat up fast and be sticky for a minute or two. I guess that would make the R2s very soft qualifying type tires. If that's the case, I don't think that we should expect a whole lot of laps out of them. They could still be quite useful on short races though. Especially short races in the lighter and less powerful cars.
While R3s might be used a lot more now (which was the intention), R4s might still be handy for endurance races at the twistier tracks. Also, if LFS ever gets variable track temps, the differing compounds will be much more useful. Hot tracks will almost require the use of R4s while cold tracks could very well allow the R2s last for many laps without overheating.
I've never seen anyone flame a person for crashing. I've only seen people flamed for carelessly crashing out someone else. If you want to slam into the barrier at 200mph, go for it. But don't ruin someone else's race. It's simple common courtesy that people who are on the track be able to handle their cars without being a danger to those around them. Even if you don't take the races seriously, other people do. Ruining their race is unacceptable.
I think that 10-15% is not even close to enough. Even very light vehicles with weak engines have clutches that can withstand hundreds of pounds of torque. You might blow a clutch plate into tiny pieces, but it's probably not going to slip unless you slip it a lot and overheat the clutch during use. Clutches just don't slip like they currently do in LFS. Aftermarket clutches and (at least some) race clutches are even LESS likely to slip because they use a very "sticky" material and they use centrifugal force to increase clamping power (the faster you rev, the tighter they grab).
Clutches should overheat and slip IF people are slipping them during launch or riding the clutch a lot. They should not slip at all when the pedal is being released normally, even if the driver is powershifting.
If you rev a car and dump the clutch, there are a few possibilities of what would normally happen:
1) The tires break loose
2) The tires grip and the engine bogs or dies
3) The clutch, rear end, U-joint, or something else breaks
4) The clutch slips
I've never in my life seen #4 happen before #1-3. In fact, the only time I've ever seen a clutch slip is when it gets very old and worn or when it's slipped several times in a row during launches. #4 should never happen on an unmodded car without slipping the clutch a lot, because your clutch should always be able to withstand more torque than your engine can produce.
There's a sub-forum on RSC dedicated to building your own sim cockpit. MANY people on there have experimented with fresnel lenses in single and triple-screen setups. Go there for inspiration and ideas.
I think you are VASTLY overestimating the cost of having a good sim racing setup. Take a look at the link in my signature. Most people agree that my setup is pretty darn immersive, and it didn't cost me that much at all. I paid $600 for my projector almost two years ago (the exact same model sold on eBay yesterday for under $200). I run a G25 that cost me about $300, but they go for about $250 now. My computer is a second-hand from a friend. I got it for $150 and it runs LFS at 50-80 fps easily, even with a bunch of AI on South City. My seat was free, taken from an old car. That's pretty much it other than headphones, cables, and normal stuff you probably already own. My setup is situated in a closet. I can easily tuck it away if I need to and it takes up almost no space at all.
Making a good sim setup does not have to be expensive, nor does it have to take up a bunch of space. Those are just excuses that people use when they don't want to make the effort.
The XRG and XRT both still use H-shift, as does the FZR. It's not like you can never use H-shift in LFS now that the XRR has changed. Just drive the FZR instead of the XRR for races in that class, or spend a little more time driving the XRG/XRT/FZ5/etc.