Mate. Practice. Thats really all there is to it. . . Learn about setting up your vehicle of choice, have a mess around prehaps off line for a bit and then get out there and race .. . . .
Yes you might get kicked for noobing, but if you are a genuine racer with good intentions and good observation of track etiquette (And have 'sorry' as your F1 fast chat setting. You will be amazed at how far a good 'sorry' will go in the right places) then somewhere will become home. Prehaps keep away from the manic servers running the BF1 or the FO8, generally noobers playing around with overpowered monsters they can't handle.
I personally find some very satisfying racing happening on UF servers. ALthough generally I stick to the FZR.
If you practice away on a qieut server then mostly your felllow racers will be experianced and slightly more patient with you. They can give you a wealt of setup and driving advice . . . .
Noobs annoy us all sometimes, and noobs will come to annoy you in your time too. But we where all there once and most of us understand that. So long as you are courteous and willing to learn you'll soon fit in and will be racing with the big boys in no time at all . .. . .
So welcome my friend . . .to the machine . ..
Yes you might get kicked for noobing, but if you are a genuine racer with good intentions and good observation of track etiquette (And have 'sorry' as your F1 fast chat setting. You will be amazed at how far a good 'sorry' will go in the right places) then somewhere will become home. Prehaps keep away from the manic servers running the BF1 or the FO8, generally noobers playing around with overpowered monsters they can't handle.
I personally find some very satisfying racing happening on UF servers. ALthough generally I stick to the FZR.
If you practice away on a qieut server then mostly your felllow racers will be experianced and slightly more patient with you. They can give you a wealt of setup and driving advice . . . .
Noobs annoy us all sometimes, and noobs will come to annoy you in your time too. But we where all there once and most of us understand that. So long as you are courteous and willing to learn you'll soon fit in and will be racing with the big boys in no time at all . .. . .
So welcome my friend . . .to the machine . ..
Everyone has different preferences mate. You get used to your setup and the the way the car handles. It might make you slower at one point of the circuit, but faster at another . . . But if you got any specific questions then I will be happy to answer as well as possible.
I'd rather you asked questions and learnt what the setup does than I give you a set (Which might not be all that good at the end of the day, just that I know how to drive it) that you only use and never look at . . .
S'what I do. Test and test and test a bit more. Can be a bit dull but you do learn what the cars do and how the setups work.
Like I said I'm not an alien or anything, just an average racer with an average knowledge base. I've read the manuals a bit and with the new patch you can actually coralate setup changes to how you think the car should react. I glad some of you found my little guide'et useful. I'm happy it was taken as it was intended, nothing exhaustive, just some useful tips from a fellow racer . . .
Like I said I'm not an alien or anything, just an average racer with an average knowledge base. I've read the manuals a bit and with the new patch you can actually coralate setup changes to how you think the car should react. I glad some of you found my little guide'et useful. I'm happy it was taken as it was intended, nothing exhaustive, just some useful tips from a fellow racer . . .
Ah, yes. A man there who is most definatly faster than me. If you use any of my helps to get even faster than me I will be most upset. I might even have to uprate my growl to a bite . . .
Anyone with BF1 help? I would be interested in that . . espeacially from a mousing point of view. Would be good to see what I need to look at to get competative with this mental car . ..
I realkly think that how you ran your set up before will effect your racing in the new patch. If you, like me, tried to have as nuetral a setup as possible then the new patch would have brought out the best of what you run . . . My sets where up to speed with only a few adjustments. I look forward to trying to squeeze yet more speed out of them . . .
If you ran a more chaotic setup using the exploits and fixed transmission and the like then your just can't get the most from the car in this new patch.
If you ran a more chaotic setup using the exploits and fixed transmission and the like then your just can't get the most from the car in this new patch.
True. I must admit. I do have a red stripe on my FZR skin. Plus red wing mirrors. Do you think that that would cuase problems as the wing mirrors are travelling at a faster speed than the rest of the car. I could be seeing (In my mirrors) myself coming up behind me . . . .ooo. How paradoxical. And somehow kinky . . .
Just goes to show just how good LFS is becoming. To me, that looked real. From watching the San Marino GP at the weekend that slo mo work looked pretty much spot on. TBH honest to answer some of the obove requests for more car component requests, once LFS gets the slo slo mo then you will see more reaction form the car. F1 cars react so quickly and with minimum tolerances that even in RL you need superfast cameras to catch the details. The movement is in there but the camera speed just can't capture it in enough detail to reproduce it in the framerates needed to show you the components moving . . . . *Deep breath*.
Good vid though. I love the way the car moves and squirmes around. S'great. Just like the real thing.
Good vid though. I love the way the car moves and squirmes around. S'great. Just like the real thing.
I make my own sets as well, and to be honest it's kinda poetic if someone beats you with your setup . . . kinda backhanded compliment.
Although I must admit that if I give my setups out I might adjust the downforce or lower the tyre pressure slightly. Can't be having to many people wipping my arse now can we . . . .
TBH, most of my sets seem to have operated in 'T' form quite well. As a mouser my sets have to be good in the control front anyway (With very little in the way of exploite settings) so maybe compared to the loose WR sets my setups grant me a small advantage with the new physics.
other than stiffening the suspension, increasing tyre pressure and reducing down force my sets seem to be performing very well. Surprisingly will in fact. Hopefully after some more driving I can really get to grips with the minutae and get some good times going . . .
Yea. Thats where it stems from I think. They worked out that even down to what shirts the away kit was changed how a team played . . . .
But anyway, thats hideosly off topic . . . Post a setup tip . . . . lol.
But anyway, thats hideosly off topic . . . Post a setup tip . . . . lol.
S'true too. Red really does have a scientific realation to winning and success. I'm sure there's another thread somewhere about that . ..
A Hopefully helpful thread on Patch T setups.
Having noticed a few people struggle to come up with good lap times whilst still using the old patch setups I thought I would jot down what I have done to make me competative. I hope you find it helpful, this does concentrate on the rear wheel drive closed wheelers. As thats what I drive predominatly, but I think some of the general principles will stretch to other race car types. This is just a reaction to some people who seem to be struggling in applying changes to the adapt to the new physics and tyre grip improvements.
Ok. This is what I have done. (These are very specific changes for the FZR and I am a mouser. A few times for you: 58.54 As Club; 1.42.02 As Nat. 2.14.02 Ky Long GP. But like I said, basic principle can probs be applied acroos many of the LFS cars. Except the F1, which I have no idea about and am still learning how to set the thing up, man that thing is fast.)
So.
1 - Lower and stiffen the suspension. As the high nose bug as been lessened if not eliminated and the low speed grip issue remedied then the suspension can be lowered and stiffened to quite some considerable degree. (To the limits given by the race track of course) Having more basic mechanical grip means a stiff suspension setup will not create an uncontrolalble car as before.
2 - Raise the tyre pressures. You can also do this by quite a bit, just raise them untill either the tyre wear becomes an issue or braking becomes a problem. This give you the benefit of greater straight line speed and more direct steering inputs as the contact patch is reduced and the rigidity of the tyre returns to more realistic parameters.
3 - Reduce downforce. Again becasue of more basic grip and the rear end being less likely to trip you out the race the downforce can be brought down considerable. Just keep reducing untill you feel the car slipping on the limits of adhesion and dial some back in if you feel you need too. With less downforce you have more straight line speed.
4 - decrease 1st gear length. With the rear rubber gripping so much more, bogging at the start has become an issue so reduce the length of 1st and increase the locking power of the clutch, more tyre grip, less need to compenstate with low locking power. For fellow mousers you could think about timming back 2nd and possible 3rd from you normal setting. Again this wonderful new rear grip means you can put more power down without the fear of stepping out, lower gear ratios means greater acceleration.
5 - Reduce rear toe in. More toe in, whilst increasing stability can leech away your outright speed. You don't need so much anymore to keep control of that wayward rear so bring the wheels back to the straight and narrow.
6 - Increase your braking power. Even mousers can get nearly 1500 N/m out of the brakes now(depending on tyre pressures and camber settings). I run 1440 on my AS. Nat setup. But that varies and mouse users need to keep the Braking power lower than pedal users . . .
7 - Fuel. I have noticed a decrease (In the FZR) of the amount it drinks. So check out F12 and bring down your fuel assignment to compensate.
8 - Colour. Red. It's proven to be the fastest colour. So change to red and you'll be knocking seconds off your PB in no time.
So. These recommendation are from me and predominatly for the FZR. I am not a 'pro racer' by any stretch. But hopefully it will help those around that seem to be struggling getting the most from the new patch. There are plenty more experianced racers who will give much better guides than this but I hope this is a good basic something to use.
I would seriously reccomend reading the manuals and getting to grips with the setups your selves, With the new patch the cars are handling better than ever and real world sensibilities are really starting to be applicable in LFS.
If anyone has some open wheeler advice, steering wheel user differences and front wheel drive settings that they find useful and effective please add them in. Anything we can do to make people more competative and stopping them from using my bumper as a brake is a good thing . . . .
Ok. This is what I have done. (These are very specific changes for the FZR and I am a mouser. A few times for you: 58.54 As Club; 1.42.02 As Nat. 2.14.02 Ky Long GP. But like I said, basic principle can probs be applied acroos many of the LFS cars. Except the F1, which I have no idea about and am still learning how to set the thing up, man that thing is fast.)
So.
1 - Lower and stiffen the suspension. As the high nose bug as been lessened if not eliminated and the low speed grip issue remedied then the suspension can be lowered and stiffened to quite some considerable degree. (To the limits given by the race track of course) Having more basic mechanical grip means a stiff suspension setup will not create an uncontrolalble car as before.
2 - Raise the tyre pressures. You can also do this by quite a bit, just raise them untill either the tyre wear becomes an issue or braking becomes a problem. This give you the benefit of greater straight line speed and more direct steering inputs as the contact patch is reduced and the rigidity of the tyre returns to more realistic parameters.
3 - Reduce downforce. Again becasue of more basic grip and the rear end being less likely to trip you out the race the downforce can be brought down considerable. Just keep reducing untill you feel the car slipping on the limits of adhesion and dial some back in if you feel you need too. With less downforce you have more straight line speed.
4 - decrease 1st gear length. With the rear rubber gripping so much more, bogging at the start has become an issue so reduce the length of 1st and increase the locking power of the clutch, more tyre grip, less need to compenstate with low locking power. For fellow mousers you could think about timming back 2nd and possible 3rd from you normal setting. Again this wonderful new rear grip means you can put more power down without the fear of stepping out, lower gear ratios means greater acceleration.
5 - Reduce rear toe in. More toe in, whilst increasing stability can leech away your outright speed. You don't need so much anymore to keep control of that wayward rear so bring the wheels back to the straight and narrow.
6 - Increase your braking power. Even mousers can get nearly 1500 N/m out of the brakes now(depending on tyre pressures and camber settings). I run 1440 on my AS. Nat setup. But that varies and mouse users need to keep the Braking power lower than pedal users . . .
7 - Fuel. I have noticed a decrease (In the FZR) of the amount it drinks. So check out F12 and bring down your fuel assignment to compensate.
8 - Colour. Red. It's proven to be the fastest colour. So change to red and you'll be knocking seconds off your PB in no time.
So. These recommendation are from me and predominatly for the FZR. I am not a 'pro racer' by any stretch. But hopefully it will help those around that seem to be struggling getting the most from the new patch. There are plenty more experianced racers who will give much better guides than this but I hope this is a good basic something to use.
I would seriously reccomend reading the manuals and getting to grips with the setups your selves, With the new patch the cars are handling better than ever and real world sensibilities are really starting to be applicable in LFS.
If anyone has some open wheeler advice, steering wheel user differences and front wheel drive settings that they find useful and effective please add them in. Anything we can do to make people more competative and stopping them from using my bumper as a brake is a good thing . . . .
Last edited by Funnybear, .
The racing line don't go nowhere. It's there and will never go away . . . . It's part of the track design.
If someone has sent you a setup it'll appear on the connections list. Click on it and then just save teh setup with whatever name you choose. Then enter the pits and the setup should be there for you.
If you enter the pits before saving it won't be there . . .
If you enter the pits before saving it won't be there . . .
1: Any change you make to a setup will remain changed except, I think, to the default ones. But tbh you'll want to make new sets for the different tracks as they all have there own requirements. You'll be changing things for one track that'll mess you up for another so I would reccormend giving yourself a new setup for each track you race.
2: Dunno.
3: You can dwnload some tools that help you with setting up if you want to get into the minutae of it all. Have a look around the forum, you'll soon find what you need. But if you just fancy getting a basic feel for stuff then the game will give you feedback. If you find yourself loosing it in corners or over rough sections then you could be bottoming out either on the road or on the suspension end stops. Just play with the settings untill you find out what they do. Reading the manuals are good for giving you the indicators to watch out for and the reaction you should take with them . . .
2: Dunno.
3: You can dwnload some tools that help you with setting up if you want to get into the minutae of it all. Have a look around the forum, you'll soon find what you need. But if you just fancy getting a basic feel for stuff then the game will give you feedback. If you find yourself loosing it in corners or over rough sections then you could be bottoming out either on the road or on the suspension end stops. Just play with the settings untill you find out what they do. Reading the manuals are good for giving you the indicators to watch out for and the reaction you should take with them . . .
OOOhhhh. Them. Didn't even notice they had gone. They didn't do anything anyway. So I have them. I've taken them away and you can never have them back. Ever.
If you are using old setup tyre pressures with the new patch physics then I think you will get anomalous readings. With the new 'grip' factor I think you will find that the setups will adjust to a more realistic setting with stiffer suspension, higher tyre pressures and less camber. This will lesson the immeadiate effect of how you see tyre deformation now. Of course a low pressure tyre will defrom to large degrees, it's got nothing to hold it up.
I think a discussion of this nature needs a few more weeks of 'gametime' maturity before exhaustive critism can take place effectivly.
I think a discussion of this nature needs a few more weeks of 'gametime' maturity before exhaustive critism can take place effectivly.
No. I have them. Told you. Give me some credit at least . . . .
I have them. All of them. I have taken all the credit. For everything.
Yep . . .thats what happens . . .
the game will take off 'old' skidmarks as the race progresses. (I think).
But why you would want to take them off as they give you so much information as to how others are driving and what is happening on the track is beyond me.
But why you would want to take them off as they give you so much information as to how others are driving and what is happening on the track is beyond me.
Hmm. yes. I have noticed an increase in lagging cars. Not many, but failry sure it's more than before. I just put that down to their being more people kicking around the servers . . .
Although I have had a couple more 'Can't access main server' than I remember getting before. But that just might be my Firewall messing around.
Although I have had a couple more 'Can't access main server' than I remember getting before. But that just might be my Firewall messing around.
I had to go through a couple of my passwords untill I found the right one . . . lol. Spoon. Jar. Spoonjar. SpoonJarJarSpoon. Huhu. Loads of passwords. Got there in the end though . . .
S'true. Tyres deform a hell of a lot IRL. F1 tyres are all over the shop. When I saw the screen shots for the patch buildup I was actually suprised to see tyre deformation there at all. I think the fact that we have it all is a testament to Scawens programming and considerations. I think the tyre modelling (Unless you want to get into minutia) is actually quite adequate for LFS's needs atm . . .
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG