Does the E21 work properly with realfeel for you guys? Somehow it doesn't for me. I either get virtually no feedback at all or I get heavy spikes with virtually no feedback inbetween...
That's not the point as far as the WTCC goes, though. Last season the Diesel was favoured by the regulations. FIA promised to change them to provide equal chances.
This at least should be taken care of. I think iracing said somewhere that they'll be updating the tracks whenever they change in real Life.
But on the whole, I agree. I doubt that with current computer hardware it would be even possible to simulate a racing environment to such an extent that you could setup your car to an extent that is actually useful in rL. You might get some general ideas of which way to go, though.
You know these movies where a very talented singer/athlete/actor/racedriver is turned down at first, but bothers the person in charge with persistence and cheekiness until he gets the once-in-a-lifetime chance and eventually becomes a superstar? Could have been you...
Glad you three guys made it. I was also a little worried, tbh.
I've been on DX8 all along, actually and all settings are at "medium", with trilinear filtering. It's pretty much unplayable, still.
Update: It's not the fps apparantly. I just let fraps run and here's the result for the M3:
Frames: 8680 - Time: 187735ms - Avg: 46.235 - Min: 27 - Max: 68
Now this is not great, obviously, but it's not much worse than with the C6:
Frames: 9632 - Time: 198906ms - Avg: 48.424 - Min: 29 - Max: 71
The C6 is, however, very playable with those fps, while the M3 is not.
thx for your effort with the M3. Only problem is, I've got severe fps problems. I only drove it on Spa (RSN version) and don't know how low they are, but they're close to a slide show. I don't have those problems with other cars/mods. Is that to be expected with this mod? Nobody else seems to have troubles...
This will not be for you either then, but whenever those expensive toys are mentioned, I feel that the CST Pedals (site currently under construction) deserve a citation. Those are just as good as all other high end pedals and better than quite a few of them, as they use a truly pressure sensitive brake pedal which is operated by a load cell instead of a potentiometer. Todd Cannon, the guy who makes those is also a really nice and very helpful guy, it seems.
In the long run, the XRG will definitely be the better car to take, imho. A little more frustrating at first, but it pays off later, as people have stated.
And this advice comes from somebody who'd almost always take the XFG if given the choice. I'm just too lazy and impatient to learn the RWDs properly. Also I don't race a lot and when I do, I want to at least have a chance at finishing somewhere in the top 10. Which works fine with the XFG, but it won't really make me progress much.
Says who? Did you read the TireRack-Link? (a site which sells tyres and is thus not particularly suspect of handing out overly daring recommendations regarding tyre-use):
"Our experience has been that when properly cared for, most street tires have a useful life of between six to ten years. And while part of that time is spent as the tire travels from the manufacturing plant to the manufacturer's distribution center, to the retailer and to you, the remainder is the time it spends on your vehicle."
This is congruent with the information I have from the german automobile club ADAC.
Never said you should just go by tread depth. As stated above: whether the tyre should be replaced before those 8 (or 6-10 years) should be determined by tread depth.
Edit: And, btw, a seldomly used tyre, afaik, ages faster than a tyre used daily. Not 100% on that, though, but it's also implied on the TireRack site.
Two years?! That's ridiculous. Modern tyres should be fine for up to 8 years and whether you need to replace them before that should be determined by how much tread is left.