Nah, I think it pretty much works in the real world too. You can race on any budget, be it a couple hundred bucks for a season of indoor karting or hundreds of thousands to run a semipro series like Koni Challenge or Star Mazda.
I think people focus too much on trying to advance, end up biting off more than they can chew (financially or skill wise), and end up falling off the radar.
I'm nearly 20 years old, I could've started racing in SCCA or even lower levels of Grand Am or IMSA, but I chose to start in a school kart series, because even though I'm too old for it, I recognized that if I was going to get anywhere at all I needed a springboard.
Yes, a kart. One of the twitchiest, most difficult-to-drive-fast animals on four wheels.
If you bash the kart, you display a complete lack of understanding about driving anything. Even Ayrton Senna said a kart is a bastard (paraphrase).
Your argument: a racing car cannot be drifted/caught/saved. Well, it can. Wouldn't be much of a racing car if it keeled over and died at the first sign of trouble, would it?
Scholarships are better. Like what Mazda is doing with Skip Barber.
Not only that but you get more money. For winning the Skippy F2000 championship in the US, which costs 28k for a full national season, you get $400,000 to race in Star Mazda. Not only does that series have national TV coverage, but it costs twice as much as Formula BMW. And it has an $800,000 prize for the winner to race Atlantics. Plus it ensures that only champions move on.
So horsepower and steering? How is that "completely different"?
Here, watch this video: go to 14:40 and watch me drift my racing kart in celebration. This is a car set up by some of the best karters in the US to be as fast a racing car as possible, and yet I can still drift it.
Interesting. I've got a set of Companion 2s for my Xbox and they sound pretty good. Very clear, maybe a little tinny at the high end.
I actually thought they sounded a little weird at first, but then one day, after probably 20 hours of use, I just started it up and I thought "hey, actually, these sound pretty alright". I could hear a lot of things I couldn't before, with my Creatives.
I'm no audiophile, though. However, when it comes time to replace them, I probably won't buy Bose again. I thought they were a little overpriced. Take 15-20 bucks off and I'd say I got my money's worth (they were 80 dollars).
Real race cars with sequential transmissions do not allow you to downshift past 1st gear. You always have to pull a lever or push a button or pull a cord for neutral. Same for road cars. Sometimes it's pulling both paddles (really bad idea IMO), but most modern sequentials have a stick on the center console that has a neutral setting just like an auto box.
I always try to put the car in neutral when I spin in LFS. I would like a neutral button of some kind. Though, if I had a clutch pedal I'd just use that.
No second sense, just feeling the subtleties of the car and what it's suggesting it will do. 10 laps will give you all that information for a new car or grip level.
You can't correct a slide before it happens, but you will be made aware of the impending slide a lot sooner than you would in a video game. With your butt, you can feel the back end of the car accelerating through the slip angle zone faster than it should long before you ever feel anything in the wheel. In a game you have to wait for the wheel, meaning waiting for the tires to fully pass the optimum slip angle and start pulling the wheel into countersteer.
For the record, slide = more than 1 degree over optimum slip angle.
The grip level feels fine to me in LFS, but I don't have a FFB wheel so I can't really comment.
I'm not really all that pissed because A, I've got a PC with lots of good games. B, It only takes about a week or so for me to get it back. And C, it's a free fix.
When the warranty runs out, and if it dies, then I'll be pissed. But right now, eh. I'd rather take 1 week once a year to deal with one big problem than constantly live with many many little ones. Other than the red rings problem, the 360 has been a complete joy. Never gone wrong in any other way.
Actually, there is one thing I'm not so happy about. The "coffin" box came in from Microsoft overnight, but it's going back (California to Texas, 2100 miles as the car drives) on the ground. Bleh.
^ I'm working on a Blackwood setup, but those darn right side tires just refuse to heat up around this "bullring" (mostly right handers). I want to put R1 compound tires on the inside front, R2s on the outside front and inside rear, and R3 on the outside rear. This is pretty common for real cars around tracks like Lime Rock. But when I switch to "asymetrical" mode on my tire settings it won't let me change compounds side to side.
Is there any way to do that? If not, how should I go about making the insides work harder? Asymetrical pressures, camber?
Bonus question! What the hell do I do with my downforce on this track?! It's got those loooong straights but so many nice high speed corners! Right now I've got 8 clicks on the front and 10 on the back. It feels alright to me from what I can see (I have a no-FF wheel), but you guys have been working with this game a lot longer than I have and know the physics way better than I do.
Thanks!
EDIT: Oh, I thought of another one for the gurus. Viscous or clutch pack LSD?! I've been running a viscous at 5Nms/rad. Seems to trail brake better than the default clutch pack did...
Boys, boys. It was just a bit of fun! Though it is broken... and now resides in Texas, with all the other sickly Xboxes. Though, one day an owner will send in a fellow broken console to be fixed and in exchange my console will taste freedom again. And cake.
Seriously though, for the record, this is the 2nd time this has happened, and both times the Xbox only lasted about a year.
Next time this happens, I'm told by one of my friends that a new mounting system for the CPU and GPU heat sink will cure it (since mine will probably be out of warranty by then). He tried it and it worked for him. I know dudes that have gone through more than 10 consoles. I've also heard horror stories on forums about 20+ consoles, but I don't believe that.
As far as I can work out, it's really the only big flaw with the 360. Everything else is fantastic, which is why I'm bothering to fix it.
If it was really a problem every painter in Forza 2 would be in the slammer now. And Turn 10/Microsoft has no problem publishing that stuff on their site.
60 pounds on Ebay and free postage. Don't worry, it will work perfectly for the PC with a driver download even though it says PS2/PS3. Try to convince your parents that it will help you practice for the real world driving and ultimately make you safer. They might help out.
Once you're comfortable driving with the wheel and doing sub-1:45 laps that are smooth, then you can really focus on nitty gritty techniques.
Are you oversteering (screeching) on corner entry or corner exit?
If entry, how much, if at all, are you countersteering? (steering into the slide). How much brake are you using as you turn in? Is this for fast corners, or slow corners, or corners where you downshift or no shift? Where are you applying throttle? Where are you apexing (slow and fast corners)? Where is your turn in point, how is your steering input speed, are you using curbs or rumble strips?
Oh man, I don't even want to think how long I might take to prepare. I'm super competitive and I take racing so seriously.
I think it might be best for both me and my immediate family/friends that I don't join a league when I get my license and stick to pick ups. I'd probably be on there for hours each day for weeks practicing and tuning. That's self-destructive behavior right there!