Yeah, little miscommunication there. You were talking about "how much" and I was talking about "how quick", it was probably the MR-2 mention that threw me off since on paper that sounds like quite twitchy car in hands of inexperienced driver. It makes for better discussion if both side would talk about same thing
Anyhow, about Skippy and SRF. As I mentioned earlier, you need to take in account the possibility that most setups you see on forums are dialed in to have oversteer available at all times and never understeer. I don't think Skippy has received any changes since beta and old setups work just fine, the fastest way to go around was to set stiffest rear-ARB and front suspension to lowest setting for high caster. That gave very pointy car that was easy to balance even in middle of a highspeed corner without major lifting. Last time I tried the car, it felt very understeery but that's probably down to steering that requires a lot more work compared to Mazda and Dallara.
I don't think I claimed it having anything to do with the overall balance, just that most fast setups on forums are biased towards oversteer under almost all conditions and together with low moment of inertia, they produce this "snap oversteer" if not driven properly. On the otherhand, default setups on Dallara are good way to experience how it affects the behavior on a car that is set up for massive understeer.
Late Model, Solstice and Impala show the handling of a car with high moment of inertia, all three cars feel very "lazy" and transitions happen much more slowly, making them easy to drive but little bit unresponsive as well.
Driving downforce cars will forever ruin your Skippy career, just because of how it affects braking
All that extra downforce means you can go 100% on brakes at the start of braking zone and then ease off as speed drops, unlike in Skippy and Solstice where you need to smoothly step on the brakes to avoid lockups and then stay fairly steady all the way.
Basically, I start off by making the car body as one, fairly low polygon shape that I then separate into smaller pieces and cut them out. However, you must make sure that you're happy with the overall mesh before splitting it, shaping it later becomes difficult because you now have multiple pieces that will no longer match if you edit one.
I've included an attachment to show how I work, you can also see the problem I mentioned at the edge of bonnet where it doesn't quite match up with the car body. Gotta fix that one I resume work on this particular model, but it's still fairly low-poly which makes it easy to correct.
Reason for Toyota MR-2's handling characteristics is low polar moment of inertia, caused by engine that is positioned close to car's CG. This results in a car that reacts very quickly and feels very agile, but could also feel "twitchy" on the limit. Most road cars in iRacing have the same kind of design, much weight in middle to give sharper feel. Even Corvette has it's engine moved as far back as possible.
Blueprint might look like that, but that's why you should have tons of reference photos. Most blueprints come from scale-model cars and they're usually not 100% accurate. Attached a shot from above where you can clearly see the bonnet.
http://www.seriouswheels.com/
That place has plenty of high resolution pictures from various cars and models. If all else fails, Google image search is useful tool.
That's not really a huge issue, in this particular situation just follow the front and top blueprints which should give you a nice smooth curvature. Another you should consider is starting with much lower resolution and getting the basic shape in for whatever piece you're doing, then adding more edge loops to add roundness or you'll end up with a bumpy mesh like you're starting to have right there.
I don't think I've raced on my license level since the first season in Skip Barbers. Right now I'm running Dallara Indycar without ever having A-license
Two seasons back, I protested a situation like this that happened during at Milwaukee during Mazda race. Rest of us kept asking for this driver to park in pits because it wasn't fun for rest of us spending half of the race trying to avoid this slow and unpredictable car. Protest didn't go through as he didn't directly cause any wrecks (multiple close calls, though).
Your images don't have background layer, it's a single layer with transparent background. Open it up in image editing program, add a layer behind with a color of your choice and save the file. That should fix the problem.
Actually no, the idea is not to go to moon, harvest it's resources and bring them back to earth. It would be quite silly since you can find all that stuff already on Earth and I don't think we're thirsty enough to spend millions for one bottle of moonwater. But this works otherway too, sending supplies to outer space is very expensive, having them right there on moon would make it cheaper.
If faces show up black, it usually means you have normals facing the wrong way. If you're using 3dsmax, you can just tick "2-sided" in material settings to fix it but ideally you'd want to fix the problem and reverse normals.
Moon will most likely to be used as a forward base for future space programs. With very low gravity, you can launch much heavier spacecrafts with all the equipment you'd need for a long mission. Mining operations in Moon would only serve the purpose of supporting this kind of colony, there won't be any money to be gained from mining a distant rock that has identical mineral layout to the rock we're standing on right now.
To put it in perspective, it won't happen in millions of years. By the time sun reaches the point where it expands and burns out, human civilization has either died off or expanded all across our galaxy.
First race in Dallara and it was going very well until I clipped the curb on T3 and managed to save it from spinning but at that point car had already slid too high and hit the wall. From what I can tell, fuel strategy is very important, early on you should take the oppoturnity to come in under yellows and keep filling it up. I set up 6th gear for drafting and fuel conservation and it worked out very well.
On a related note, weight jacker is great tool to have in oval racing as long as you realise that ONE CLICK is enough. On practice I tested if it had any difference and dialed in +5.0. Come next corner and I'm sideways into wall after big oversteer moment.
If you're on back of a pack and suffering from understeer that's starting to eat your front tires, just adding one click will make a big difference and car should turn beatifully again. For race starts and fresh tires I reduce it by one click to counter the oversteer you get with cold tires.
Ah, thought the name looked familiar
I was having my first testing session with race trim, but unfortunately server went down before I could finish it. Indianapolis is quite interesting track with a car like Dallara, it goes so fast that you can really get different feel to each corner. On T1 I have to lift, on T2 it seems to help turning early, T3 I tend to push wide and T4 has nasty exit where track camber changes quickly and got some nasty wiggles.