I'll spend decent money on a suit or a nice pin-point oxford, but that's it...

Dad's old car... Lola chassis with a peugeot engine. circa 1985



Porsche 962 of Dyson Racing, old friends from Limerock.




Ferrari 333sp, mid-late '90s. Most amazing sound ever.....

and....

the MP4/6.

Quote from DeadWolfBones :

rFactor = blasting around offline, hotlapping and trying 50 different mods in a night, then shelving it for 4 months.

LFS = racing all the good goddamn time.

Pretty much exactly. rFactor can be fun as a GAME...
Also, the new demo (v1255) is fully unlocked for 1 hour, then you can't play at all...

Last edited by titanLS, Wed 19 Mar 2008, 22:13.

I couldn't get my DriveFX to work with the profiler....

Quote from Stang70Fastback :

AHHHH!!! Sorry!
...But I guess you're going to pay to have it done right.

This holds true with HID lighting more than anything.
The chances of you being happy in the long run with an inexpensive kit are slim to none.

Last edited by titanLS, Tue 11 Mar 2008, 20:19. Reason : changed "chance" to "chances" :)

Yes, the more OEM equipment you use the better off you will be.

What vehicle are you thinking about? Usually the HID bulbs are only for the low beams, as they take a second or two to warm up and highbeams need to come on immediately.

As far as finding OEM projectors, most of the time it takes a lot of work (cutting, trimming, etc.) to get it to fit in which ever headlight housing you choose for the car in question, but once it does the output will be of OEM quality.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors ... 63QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

^^put those in your stock headlight housing and you're all set.

Everything you ever wanted to know about HID:

http://www.team-integra.net/se ... Article.asp?ArticleID=973

Last edited by titanLS, Tue 11 Mar 2008, 20:01. Reason : additional text

The big problem with plug and play HID kits is that your current non-HID projectors don't have a proper cut off and allow the glare to blind oncoming drivers.
Another problem is reliability. If a bulb blows in 3 months and the company won't return calls (happens all the time, many times companies just change their name and continue selling inferior products) you are SOL.

One way to go is to retro fit a proper HID projector into your headlight housing. It's more work and generally more expensive, but the results are worth it.

Also, try to stick with kits that offer Phillips bulbs and ballasts, which are OEM on most HID cars.


More info about the retro fit here:
http://www.team-integra.net/se ... rticle.asp?ArticleID=1061

I gave up yesterday and turned stability control on... it didn't fix the physics error but it allowed me a little more room to learn the dynamics of the game and figure out my Real Feel settings.

Still, the steering is backwards when it comes to correcting oversteer, and I can consistently prevent a spin by steering strongly away from the slide. Go against all logic and try it! BIG physics oops....

Quote from frankwer :

If you folks find rFactor hard to drive, then i guess it`s good u n00bs stay away from that game then.

Thanks for the info. Your contribution to this post and willingness to help is greatly appreciated by everyone....

That's disappointing. Why aren't people raising hell about this!?

How can anyone support this game with such a major flaw? How has it become so popular? How was it even released like this? Is everyone happy driving like this, knowing that pushing the car even slightly over it's limit will inevitably result in a spin out? Not even that, but the fix is simply to steer the other way and defy everything you've ever learned about car control...

Quote from kaynd :

That sound's like reversed feedback. some mods don't need the feedback strength to -100

Also go to the RealFeelPlugin.ini file and set the FFBMixerRealFeelPercent=0.000000 for the mod you are currently using. if you haven't deactivated real feel allready. It doesn't work with all mods so maybe thats the problem

I've tried the slider both ways, and have learned that adjusting the max value to a negative in the reelfealplugin.ini file essentially does the same thing, allowing you to skip adjusting that in-game slider with each different car and mod. However, it's not helping. Either the wheel turns away from center violently, but i have resistance in the proper direction to counter steer, or the wheel acts as it should but provides no resistance in the direction of opposite lock, and i constantly spin out. Does this with all mods, real feel or not, even the new C6 Vette, and original ISI cars such as the rTrainer. Extremely frustrating....

My problem seems to be that even when i predict a slide, as soon as the rear wheels lose grip i suddenly have no wheel resistance to counter-steer against. The wheel turns freely. If i steer AWAY from the slide, there IS resistance and the car corrects itself.... I'm about to give up....

I have set the slider to a negative value...

How is it possible that ISI released a game in which opposite lock does not straighten the car out? Every other rfactor user can't be experiencing this! I don't even feel like I have 10 degrees of freedom before that "pole" comes out of the ground. Any counter steering what so ever causes an immediate spin!

Quote from kaynd :

Go to garage at the “general” setup tab, find “steering Lock” and increase it.
It will help you catch a slide but it may make the car more nervous.

Keep in mind that driving experience in rfactor differs from mod to mod.
Most of the mods out there don’t have proper suspension and mainly tire curves so they do not respond naturally…

I've increased the steering lock already, but it just makes things worse unless I'm steering AWAY from the slide. This happens with all mods and original ISI cars.

Even at 50fps, my inputs feel ok, no huge delay... it's the fact that the steering feels backwards when trying to countersteer. Still, I'll give that render frames ahead setting a try. Thanks.

Ok.... changing FFB settings hasn't resolved my problem.

IRL, when you lose traction on the rear tires, you counter-steer to gain it back. Everyone always says: Steer INTO the slide. Common knowledge....

In rFactor, it's the exact opposite for me. Steering INTO the slide makes you spin, steering AWAY from the slide regains tractions. It's completely backwards! Keep in mind I had this problem right away without any mods or any adjusting of settings, and yes, I do have the FFB set at a negative value for my Logitech wheel. Everything feels as it should until the back end steps out... then it's either steer the wrong way to save it (which I am not willing to do, for obvious reasons) or spin.

The wheel isn't the problem as it functions perfectly in LFS...

Any ideas?

Quote from AlienT. :

Hello,

Sorry I can't help you directly as I don't have your type of wheel but have you tried http://forum.rscnet.org/ , there is a vast array of help for setting up FFB for the various sims and wheels.

It's a pain in the neck setting up wheels to get the right 'feel' for the various sims unfortunately

rsc has been down for exactly how many days I've had rFactor...

The Corvette does feel great with real feel....

Quote from ajp71 :

For the real feel settings you have a file in your rF directory called RealFeelplugin.ini

[car name]
MaxForceAtSteeringRack=2800.000000
SteeringDamper=2500.000000
FFBMixerRealFeelPercent=-100.000000
SmoothingLevel=0

I've edited the .ini but not with your exact values. I'll try it.

Quote from ajp71 :

In rF ensure all sensitivities are set to 100% and dead zones to 0 to get linear control. The FF strength should be set at -100 for a Logitech wheel (otherwise forces go the wrong way) and if using RealFeel set the rF FF level to low (but not off).

This I haven't tried. I figured out the negavtive values part (although with Real Feel it seems like I have to slide it back and forth between + & - for each different car... gets confusing after a while) but when I put x axis sensitivity to 100% it becomes almost uncontrollable. Perhaps using your other settings along side will help...

Ten seconds after I posted this I seemingly arrived at a setting that fixed my problem. I changed profiler sensitivity to 100% and in game x axis sensitivity to 20%. Still, I'm off to try your settings. Thanks very much

Ok, I've decided to give rFactor a try, and with the SCC mod it offers just what I wanted... Prototypes and Limerock.

Here's my problem: No matter what FFB settings i choose (both Real Feel and the default FFB) it becomes nearly impossible to make any steering corrections. Once the rear end steps out at all, that's it, I'm spinning out. For example, in LFS @ SO6, every once in a while I get into the chicane too hot and the rear steps out a little. Most of you have probably experienced that... We all know one quick correction of the wheel will bring the rear right back in. Feels just like IRL. Same thing with trail braking.
In rFactor, I can set it up so everything feels great, good wheel resistance, good sensitivity, feedback, etc., until the time comes to catch the rear end... then it just doesn't work. Full lock won't even prolong the slide, I just spin immediatley. Any sort of trail braking also sends me spinning right away (yes I have messed with bias to no avail) Let it be noted that when FFB is turned off completely I can magically catch slides again... the only way I can use FFB and make steering corrections is when there is virtually no resistance on the wheel, which feels horrible....

So, in hopes that someone else has experienced this I'll post up my current rFactor FFB and wheel settings and maybe someone can point me to a solution....

Momo Black
Profiler Settings:
Overall 95%
Spring effect 0%
Damper effect 0%
Enable centering spring checked, 0%
Wheel sensitivity 80%

In Game:
FFB strength 80%
Effects: Full
Speed Sensitivity: 20%
X Axis (wheel) sensitivity: 40%
X Axis deadzone: 0%
all digital rates at 0%

That's about it. Thanks for reading.

That was fast. Thanks very much.

Hey everyone. I've already posted up an FBM skin and got a great render (thanks zeromussov), but since then i've added a dirt layer that was posted recently to the same skin. Anyone have some spare time? Thanks!

Quote from 1337sause :

heres you skin titan

Awesome. Thank you.

Quote from beefyman666 :

Here's another one, 1280x1024. You'd really benefit from using a 2048 skin when having a car covered in carbon fibre, the weave looks huge on your skin.

I know it.... I made this one before I really knew anything about skinning and haven't wanted to go back and redo it. Thanks so much for the renders though, everyone. Much appreciated!

Actually, while you guys are at it.... Here's another! All these red ones are based off my dad's old Formula Atlantic....

Last edited by titanLS, Sat 9 Feb 2008, 18:50.

One more if anyone feels up to it?
Another private skin... my first one made from scratch (credit to carbon texture creator)

Thanks very much. They look great!