I had one too, take away all the car restrictions, then we'll really see who can build the best car.
There are plenty of racing series with close racing due to similar cars, formula 1 is currently boring, I'd rather see what they come up with to build the fastest cars they can without being hampered by "oh noes the fast cars are too fast!" restrictions.
LOL at german person in a french car. The saxo/106 has the single worst chassis I've experienced. I don't care how many valves the VTS has or how much peak horsepower it has, it'll always be worse than a bag full of smashed badgers. 
Revision Aids
Please can a moderator ban me from this forum till the 30th of this month as I have exams to do for university. 
I have it mapped to a wheel button, and with a fairly 'loose' setting even when it is on.
I use it to launch out of hairpins in low gears with the slightest of opposite lock if I've stuffed my exit line, then I turn it off for the quicker stuff where the wings keep the car settled despite the wheelspin.
I use it to launch out of hairpins in low gears with the slightest of opposite lock if I've stuffed my exit line, then I turn it off for the quicker stuff where the wings keep the car settled despite the wheelspin.
If you look up the force dynamics videos which map the G's to motion simulating changes in angle etc:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Uy7rNr1OrY
You will note that the actual G's experienced by the virtual driver are pretty potent, so even measuring it in this "whip" effect you've magically dreamed up. It's still fine.
And yes, I know that's a far more powerful race car, but that looks about right to me from what I've experienced of slick tyres and cars with no interior!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Uy7rNr1OrY
You will note that the actual G's experienced by the virtual driver are pretty potent, so even measuring it in this "whip" effect you've magically dreamed up. It's still fine.
And yes, I know that's a far more powerful race car, but that looks about right to me from what I've experienced of slick tyres and cars with no interior!
Are we going to have a "speed dating" pairing up thread? Or should we go through the ritual humiliation I thought I'd escaped having left school of "picking teams" on the day.... 
oooooooooh - well that's alright then, my practice sessions are 1hr15 straight! n00b alert over.
oooooooooh - well that's alright then, my practice sessions are 1hr15 straight! n00b alert over.
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I've done that :dunce: I mean threads in this forum starting with LFS Karting Meet as I can't subscribe threads I havn't seen!
Awesome - real karters for competition. I've always aspired to Karting, but I have to be self sufficient and attend university, leaving weekend time as I'm at work, and no money as I only have time to work at weekends! That said, this sounds worth a day of leave and saving up some cash for.
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I just know I couldn't resist once I'm there - therefore a yes!
Seal of Approval
Seal of Approval
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I'm an idiot - I can make all dates, I voted only one by accident. 
I'm going to need to do some weight training for this one, the last time I did 2 hours straight in a kart I was *ruined* the next day.
That said it was one of the top 2 hours of my life thus far, and as such vote for the max race length - when you're battling for position, time goes all too fast!
Is there a way to subscribe to threads relavent to this? I don't have time to frequent the forums much and I'm concerned about missing threads crucial to this event.
nb.
I've got a Formula Renault rag round Thruxton in 2 weeks time - so if I never post again, it's because I apexed early.
That said it was one of the top 2 hours of my life thus far, and as such vote for the max race length - when you're battling for position, time goes all too fast!
Is there a way to subscribe to threads relavent to this? I don't have time to frequent the forums much and I'm concerned about missing threads crucial to this event.
nb.
I've got a Formula Renault rag round Thruxton in 2 weeks time - so if I never post again, it's because I apexed early.
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Awesome,
sadly for every 1 of these there are twenty where you shaft/get shafted by some poor tonk who darted left/right of you doing their own knife through butter....
sadly for every 1 of these there are twenty where you shaft/get shafted by some poor tonk who darted left/right of you doing their own knife through butter....
I have a LOT of flex in my bmw drivetrain, I'm in the process of replacing all the bushings with polymer ones instead of this crappy, over-flexible rubber. It's a giant arse ache.
The flex matters a lot - the reason I'm swapping them out is because I raced someone elses with this already done and it was brilliant, really responsive dynamics.
You can even buy aluminium ones for racing, things like diff mounts especially.
My differential rocks enough just flicking it into first gear to make a clunk from it rocking in its carrier and the bushings, if you dump the gass and take it off again you can really feel the whole lot elasticate the application of torque to the wheels.
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Yes Please.
I'm 69th fastest driver ever at my local track, and I LOVE overtaking.
Also happy to do a run up from Surrey in the BMW.
I'm 69th fastest driver ever at my local track, and I LOVE overtaking.
Also happy to do a run up from Surrey in the BMW.
In other news -
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Nero Vision Express - part of the super flash nero MASSIVE SOFTWARE SUITE edition.
I wasn't very sure about where to post this. But much like the hilarious videos posted in the general forum, if you are driving with the automatic gears (I was testing out the demo on a fresh install on a work laptop, as I was too impatient to wait to get home),
If you melt the clutch, the computer "changing gear for you" doesn't know the difference between driving the wheels, and burning the clutch.
This may mean that the AI drivers won't be able to baby the clutch after a serious spin?
Sorry if this is in the wrong place/already somewhere I couldn't find - I don't even mind to be honest - First time I've used auto gears in ages.
If you melt the clutch, the computer "changing gear for you" doesn't know the difference between driving the wheels, and burning the clutch.
This may mean that the AI drivers won't be able to baby the clutch after a serious spin?
Sorry if this is in the wrong place/already somewhere I couldn't find - I don't even mind to be honest - First time I've used auto gears in ages.
The limiter is to stop the engine exploding immediately from too much throttle, its an upper limit, you should shift before it. I've never heard the rev limiter in any car I've raced, no matter how hard I drive it. The power drops off towards it so you should be changing pronto!
Borrow a naff motorbike and have a go at downshifting without the clutch - it's a great way to learn!
If you are braking on a corner approach, the engine is trying to go slower than the wheels, it resists being turned over as there is not enough fuel going in to explode and expand to drive it. If you are at zero throttle, the engine will always by trying to turn at idling rpm, much slower than the rpm it will actually be going unless you've left your downshift 2 weeks too late.
If you blip with the clutch engaged, that is, connected to the drive shaft, there is a transition from the engine slowing the rear wheels, to trying to accelerate them. In order to go through this transition, bang in the middle there is a point where the dogs are completely unloaded, and it is this point that allows the higher gear to be disengaged.
As the gearbox parts moves, the revs climb from the blip, and if you time it right, the dogs mesh with the new lower ratio at the right rpm for the wheel/gearbox speed.
This is a fine art, one that can be expensive to earn.
I will always go for mechanical sympathy where practically available because I believe it pays off not only as a calm, controlled driving style, but looks after the car as well.
If you're downshifting on a corner approach as you always are when time matters, it doesn't matter if your shift is fractionally slower because you don't need the engine to slow down the car, that's what the brakes are for.
That's what it feels like to me anyway.
lol at red dwarf reference
If you are braking on a corner approach, the engine is trying to go slower than the wheels, it resists being turned over as there is not enough fuel going in to explode and expand to drive it. If you are at zero throttle, the engine will always by trying to turn at idling rpm, much slower than the rpm it will actually be going unless you've left your downshift 2 weeks too late.
If you blip with the clutch engaged, that is, connected to the drive shaft, there is a transition from the engine slowing the rear wheels, to trying to accelerate them. In order to go through this transition, bang in the middle there is a point where the dogs are completely unloaded, and it is this point that allows the higher gear to be disengaged.
As the gearbox parts moves, the revs climb from the blip, and if you time it right, the dogs mesh with the new lower ratio at the right rpm for the wheel/gearbox speed.
This is a fine art, one that can be expensive to earn.
I will always go for mechanical sympathy where practically available because I believe it pays off not only as a calm, controlled driving style, but looks after the car as well.
If you're downshifting on a corner approach as you always are when time matters, it doesn't matter if your shift is fractionally slower because you don't need the engine to slow down the car, that's what the brakes are for.
That's what it feels like to me anyway.
lol at red dwarf reference
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Any petrol engine can have an electronic microswitch on the gearstick or paddle arrangement, which can activate a relay, which in turn cuts the ignition for the duration of the shift action.
You can get micro-switches for a euro... relays and wiring is simple enough. No race team would bodge it that simply.
A version for motorcycles is this :
It’s the Dynojet Quick Shifter (DQS), and this one allows full-throttle, clutchless up-shifting.
http://www.partsmag.com/0402/dynojet-0402/dynojet-0402.html
in short, its an ignition system, which when it detects pressure on the foot control push/pull rod, cuts the ignition to the cylinders - (the dynojet ignition replaces the stock version).
I'm pretty sure you can get one for the engine in the motorcycles that gives its engine to formula bmw.
All of this is well off topic though, as formula one is sealed engine, strictly governed racing. What can be done, and what is allowed, are very different.
You can get micro-switches for a euro... relays and wiring is simple enough. No race team would bodge it that simply.
A version for motorcycles is this :
It’s the Dynojet Quick Shifter (DQS), and this one allows full-throttle, clutchless up-shifting.
http://www.partsmag.com/0402/dynojet-0402/dynojet-0402.html
in short, its an ignition system, which when it detects pressure on the foot control push/pull rod, cuts the ignition to the cylinders - (the dynojet ignition replaces the stock version).
I'm pretty sure you can get one for the engine in the motorcycles that gives its engine to formula bmw.
All of this is well off topic though, as formula one is sealed engine, strictly governed racing. What can be done, and what is allowed, are very different.
I've alread thrown this over the patch test forum, but for good measure:
Hewland Sequential Gearbox designers opinion on the best way to shift their boxes:
Hewland Sequential Gearbox designers opinion on the best way to shift their boxes:
You order the differential type with the gearbox, either a free diff, or for an extra few hundred quid, you get a powerflow differential. From what I can tell... it's pretty damn adjustable!
Which looks like this:
http://www.hewland-engineering.com/drawings/egt.pdf - page 13
it has 11 friction plates and is adjustable in 3 ways.
Available gear ratios include:
And for good measure, their reccomendations on changing gear with a sequential:
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FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG