Quote from gezmoor :

Rubbish, pure and simple.

No, there are actually only a handful of panel manufacturers, and the three biggest are LG.Philips, Samsung and AUOptics... Nearly every LCD-TV has a panel of those three with a bit of original plastic cover, to keep the uniqueness...

LG.Philips produces IPS panels, Samsung MVA and AUOptics something cheap...

Quote from The Moose :

Would you mind explaining what the bloody hell your on about in a way that mere mortals understand pls

I'm stopping in my designated pit box - nothing happens... I have to pull up the interface and order my non-existant pitcrew to change the tyres and fuel me up... I stopped at the pits, what else do they think I'm gonna need? There is no menu to preselect what they should do the second I'm stopping, unless I've missed something...

Quote from The Moose :

"netKar PRO has a special force feedback setting called ‘Hardmode’. This mode is
using an algorithm directly applied from technology used in the highest forms of
racing, where the steering is sort of ‘boosted’ at low torques values. Hardmode will
provide a firmer steering, but doesn’t calculate speed, and will not be completely
realistic for the Formula2000 and FTarget cars.
Hardmode is interesting for drivers who prefer harder steering forces. Using it is
therefore preferable to raising the ‘gain and clipping’ values in the setup."

I don't quite understand: is it only steering torque? My FFB maxes out everytime I go up a kerb or when I'm braking on one - even on 0.6 FF gain... Any lower and I get no SAT anymore...

Most people find it tricky to start in this car (all the noobs crash even before T1), and it's not the fastest car anymore... That's why you hardly see them anymore...

Quote from (The Stig) :

Well look at one thing, I am not new I can also give you a free service for driving lessons on LFS so if you want to learn please do contact me on LFS I will be now checking daily so watch for me to be online on LFS Servers and LFS Forum.

Kind Regards
(The Stig)

Right, you've been with LfS since 2000 when it was first released in 2003...

I tested nK for some days now, and there are quite odd things in it...

It began with me trying out how long the tyres would last... So I did some laps...

By chance, I found the first oddity: there seems to be a magic handbrake fitted to all FF1600 that holds the car stationary on the steepest part of the track without applying any form of brake, whether you're in neutral or disengaged the clutch doesn't matter, it won't start rolling again...

Then, my tank was running empty...

At the pitstop, I ran into the next oddity: I seem to have gotten in a McDonald's Drive-Through... "I'd like a Hamburger to my new tyres, thank you"... I've never seen a driver ordering new tyres and fuel when he's stopping...

After racking up over 200 kms on one set of tyres I gave up to try it another way... And since we're on the part of being stationary - standing still breaks the whole simulation...

I tried to destroy the tyres by heat or excessive wear by putting it against a wall and doing a burnout until the tyres would explode... After I depleted a full tank this way I went back to the pits and couldn't believe what I saw: not only did my burnout apparently nothing to the tyre's wear, the temperature in all tyres was 25° C...

So it seems there is no way to actually destroy your tyres... They're degrading - yes, but apparently simulating a puncture or tyres driven down to the canvas isn't possible in the most hardcore sim of them all...

Most pointless video ever imo... But it goes to show that you can make a video out of every crap, even such a mundane crash...

Quote from Stefani24 :

Hi.
Id like to have my g25 pedals, that they are like hanging down, like in a real car (you know what i mean)

But the problem is: behind where the pedals are now, is a radiator.
Anything i acn do to get them hanging?

Exactly what JazzOn said: Get some wooden boards, make a box (the top might have to be at an angle) and screw the pedals to the top board... Voilà, very cheap and efficient hanging pedals...

1 better: wheels falling off without any contact whatsoever!

As most pedal configurations look like this, you'd have a very hard time pressing the brake with your heel and moving over to the throttle with your toes... Throw in the fact that you almost never have any room above the pedal faces and you'll soon see why it's done like it's done in RL...

What he means is when traction levels drop quite a bit after peak slip, you get the uncounterable spin effect if you go past the limit... With every degree angle you're over the limit the traction falls more, causing more angle and so on... GTR was legendary for this behaviour, GTR2 had it too as far as I know...

Problem is many modders still believe this to be true, only a handful like Niels show how it should be done, and the success of their mods speak for themselves...

Quote from RIP2004 :

Those opinions about ABS having longer brake distances is out of date.

This was the case with early ABS Systems, which didn't react quick enough.

Today ABS is very fast and will get the tires to about 20-40% slip. 30% would be for the perfect stopping power and a lot better than locked wheels. If it will even get faster, it will be even closer to 30%.

Just watch here at about 2.20:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... Wroes&feature=related

This is a braking test with exactly the same kind of new car and the same new tires on perfectly easy and dry conditions.
In one car wheels are just locked and the other uses ABS.

In the wet the difference is even more significant.

The only situation where ABS is possibly braking less is on snow or a lot of dirt on the street. A locked wheel will then push it in front of the wheel and it helps stopping. So a locked wheels is better in those situation.

Today ABS Plus will be used in cars. This takes into account these situations and will lock the wheels a bit to use this also.

A usual driver will always lock the wheels a bit if braking hard without ABS and therefore have a longer brakingway.
A very good driver can try to get the wheel as close to those 30% as possible. But I bet he won't beat a modern ABS System which interacts many times per second.

So longer braking ways are of the old days where ABS was reacting slowly and only a few times per second. Today it will always be at least as good as a good driver, but most times even better. And nobody has to concentrate ... just hit the brakes hard and you can concentrate on steering and other stuff.

But one thing is right: ABS was developed mainly to preserve the possibility of steering around an obstacle while braking hard and not to have the shortest possible way, because that was at that time not the case. A good driver could do this too by just not locking the wheels ...

One FATAL flaw in your thinking: this only shows what a numpty would do, namely lock the wheels and compare that to the wonder that is ABS... Never trust a statistic you didn't forge yourself...

ABS makes sense if a) you have an unskilled driver at the wheel (which unfortunately most are), or b) you have to steer while braking hard...

Quote from The Moose :

The key being..past development. You assume incorrectly

You assume as well... You have nothing but Kunos' word that the frequency of patches will change... He has yet to prove that his words mean anything again...

rFactor CAN be realistic, but every parameter needs to be considerate... The fact that only a handful of modders aren't complete idiots who just type random numbers in which of course leads to ridiculous results is what gives rFactor a bad name...
Take a look at those tweaks just aimed to reach x km/h at the dragstrip to see LfS' equivalent of those apparently braindead modders...

S14: Do your research properly please... GTREvo is still the old gMotor 2 engine... Just better numbers put in, that's all...

Quote from lerts :

if 4 wheels are at the grip limit and you lift the clutch engine brake will skid the back wheels cause you were at the limit

and you are not gonna take the whole brake zone with the clutch depressed

so actually if you want to use the maximum braking grip you must engine brake so 4 wheels will be at the limit of grip

otherwise your back wheels will be undergrip or overgrip(skidding) depending on how much the engine is braking

is not that im able to do that but seems most logical to me and when i used bikes in an emergency engine brake helped

Wrong... If you aren't using engine braking, you either brake with the clutch pedal pressed or you're in neutral... This means there is no engine braking happening, but it also means your braking force and bias has to be adjusted accordingly...

This is the first time I hear you should generally avoid engine braking... Downshifting too early - yes; downshifting without blipping I can also understand; but avoiding it altogether? That's news to me, as I've seen quite some videos of real racers who use it - quite aggressively at that...

Quote from Scrabby :

Also for the HDD LED, Power LED, Power Switch and Reset switch is normally in most of the times the same but check the manual of the mobo for it.

This is the hardest part, everything else is just about screwing stuff into the slots and sticking cables into somewhere it fits (including PSU - have you ever taken your computer fully apart S14?)...

110° on a 37" TV screen...

Good idea, unfortunately completely worthless... Server admins will not bother setting rules, just take a look at all the unused weather options - it's not convenient...

Yes, and you read the first post of this thread, haven't you? :doh:

Anyway, it's early 2009, so where's my Scirocco?

Pulling it through a hole and knotting it?

What feedback are you speaking of? I've never felt any feedback apart from normal resistance...

Quote from hrtburnout :

Two drums and a snare fall off a cliff.
*ba-dum* *tisch*

Wouldn't that be a cymbal?

Quote from shiny_red_cobra :

If it's not a bug then why did Scawen say this:

"Improved shadows - sharper and ambient shadow effect now included"

???

They are not any sharper and they are rendered in the same way as in Z, if you look closely at the shadow when driving around you'll see a ripple-like effect at the edges of the shadow when the car changes direction. It happens in Z and it still happens in Z10, so I don't know what Scawen "improved" because they look the same to me, which is a bug in my book.

The only difference I see from Z is that they are a bit darker, but that's it.

It doesn't mean the shadows are any sharper, it means that both a sharp shadow and and ambient shadow are cast by the cars... Drive into a building shadow in SO and you'll see the sharp shadow under the car...

The reason why it looks better with a low resolution is because the shadows have a fixed resolution - it stays the same while everything else is scaled up, which makes it look jaggied... This is done for performance, look at GTA4 to see what happens when shadow resolutions are scaled up with the general resolution...

Quote from aobrien :

Hi,

I got the G25 for xmas,and i was having trouble setting it up,i went on lfs and a guy helped me and it was working perfectly,i had to disconnect yesterday and when i tryed to go on this morning i had the same problem..

The problem is,

it doesnt sense that the wheel doesnt sense its being turned.

everything else works like pedals etc.but when i go into control panel/game controllers/properties, i get a view of the wheel and to test calibration . i have everything button / pedals / shifter working just the bloody wheel ,

no matter what i do it wnt sense it being moved,

iv tryed to reboot gaming software,restart my computer etc,

anybody have this problem?
anybody have solution?

Is the power light blinking? Unplug and replug the USB cable and let the wheel do it's startup calibration, then you can use the wheel...

Quote from NightShift :

Since we are talking about this, can anybody explain the shifting technique? I'm pretty much confused by it: sometimes he depresses the clutch (while keeping the throttle down), sometimes he doesn't, sometimes he lifts before changing :Eyecrazy:

I suspect hitting the clutch when going up and over and just a feathering when straight down...

Quote from oqvist :

I do have CST pedals and I wholeheartly recommend it.
The reason you pay 700 USD for the CSTs is not just for the load cell... It´s for the design, the build quality and the realstic feel (except for the clutch) .

You can do a decent job with a simple piece of rubber like the nixim brake mod so a load cell in itself is not all. You can get more precision with a load cell yes but the question is if you have that precise muscles in your brake leg you can really utilize it fully. I was born with stiff wooden legs lol.

The CST pedals will last a lifetime or two so if you are dead serious with your simracing and plan on doing this for 20 years or something it´s not that bad of an investment having the best pedals available and not having to shell out 100$ or something every two years or so.

Well, the Fanatec pedals having contactless, thus wearless sensors means anything you'd ever have to replace would be the springs...

I've ordered my set already with the money I've got for Christmas - will let you guys know as soon as I get them (which according to Fanatec's site will not be before the 15th of February)...