they supply software with it that interfaces with M$FS but i'm sure the code monkeys out there could figure out how to get it working with LFS.
It looks like the controller would work with homebuilt gauges using standard servos (usually found in model shops for R/C stuff) so that means i can build a rig nice and cheap (flight sim gauges are seriously expensive!)
BTW the controller board is 89 euros ( about 60 quid)
Why are there no LX servers out there ATM? last week there were 1 or 2 servers out there that offered the LX4 (albeit with the TBO cars too) and i've had some great racing. now it seems the only place i can drive the LX4/6 online is in bloody drift servers. I've got nothing against drifting, I just can't find any RACE servers hosting the little beasts.
I was hoping that with the new tyres I'd get to race my favorite cars online more often.
I'm well happy with the new tyres, much more realistic IMHO.
I took a LX4 on a 45 minute stint at AS_historic (SP) just for fun last night and the car was fantastic (after a few setup tweaks to sort the balance/turn in out) I managed 14 laps (at a healthy 3.05 pace) before i finally fell off (spin at eau rouge :tilt
before patch S/T i would struggle to make it around the track more than 3 times without bending the car, and i've driven quite a few 7s IRL.
I reckon the LXs are gonna end up being very popular
It's a shame we don't have those lights in the 'wheels only' view, it's nice to have an RPM indicator that you don't have to actually look at, you simply wait until you see red in you're peripheral vision and shift. I'm mainly going by sound ATM, 20,000rpm is quite a distinctive note
Too much info is a bad thing, it would be difficult to do a really general guide without being a chore to do. It'll be an idea to do a guide for each course with sub-sections going into more detail and Road, sports, GTR and SS classes. to cover individual cars would be a nightmare, i still cant belive there are 827 combo's (not including autocross/skidpan/carpark)
good guide dano! nice layout and plenty of info although it was mainly related to the FXO. and the trouble with a general guide is that you'd have to make it usefull to every kind of car, from UF1000 to F08. it makes sense to have a general guide (827 combos including reversals) but you'll have to heve little notes explaining the different approaches for different cars.
Dan's guide is a pretty damn good example of what should be done although a map with several (different cars) lines illustrated (with brake zones etc) to show how it changes from car to car.
A simple map with valuable pointers would be all thats needed, search for apex's guide to blackwood (s1 days i'm afraid) it wasn't perfect but showed you where you should be at least. although a replay would be good too.
Although you've got to remember that there are a total 414 combos of cars and tracks to make guides for, unless you were to do a general guide for each layout it looks like an unsurmountable task.
It would make more sense to make a few guides for the more novice player since it's a lot harder to learn the tracks when you'r elearning to drive at the same time.
my suggestions are: Blackwood (obviously) Fe green (good choice) and AS national/club.
It might be an idea to make a nice, simple exaple of a guide and then ask the community to make similar guides for each combo, it's gotta be kept relatively simple tho' if you make it too complicated it won't get done.
BTW you can get a nice map of each track using LFS spectate or a replay analyser (using the CMX files on Liveforspeed.net)
There are two schools of thought about engine braking,
a, set the brake bias (driven wheels low) so that you can use massive amounts of engine braking to assist the wheel brakes.
b, set the brake to work at maximum capacity and use heel & toe (or auto blip) to save loading up the tyres even more when downchanging
I mainly use B with a little spare grip incase i make a proper mess of the downchange.
It's a lot easier to rely on engine braking to slow you down but it means that you have much less control over whats going on at the wheels. and as fetzo says, trailbraking is a little more controlled with more front bias.
Although it makes a huge difference weather the car is RWD, FWD or AWD
with AWD+FWD you can get away with a lot more engine braking than you would in a RWD car, my suggestion is to turn auto blip on (or learn to heel & toe) if you want maximum possible braking effort since the braking force the engine generates varies a lot with revs/gears etc and wheel braking it totally consistant, allowing you to use a hard, consistant braking effort