Quote from 1303s_vortech :

My bad vortech, I totally forgot about the FOX

Will the Scirocco have a pit limiter (cruise control) ?

Quote from DeadWolfBones :

Yes, I think we will do that.

If you've already started work on the FZ50, sorry about that, but this is too good/new to pass up.

Damn it, I was nailin a pretty neat skin for the FZ50 Safety car

I'll work on the Scirocco instead then ^^ I just need to find a good wireframe template.

This is really big news Scawen !

Thank you very much, I am checking the video, it seems to be an awesome car
And the video is done in a very professional way, it reminds me of the introductions of auto tests

Keep up the good work guys ! I feel that the week until next friday is going to be loooooong

Last edited by Zen321, Thu 11 Dec 2008, 21:16.

Quote from thisnameistaken :

H-pattern shifting isn't necessarily slower, but it means you're more likely to make mistakes which will of course make you slower.

Using a clutch pedal is a similar story. In some cars (the non-race-spec cars) upshifts are quicker when using a clutch pedal because those cars have quite a slow auto-clutch shift time, so you gain a little time on the straights, but you're more likely to make a mess of downshifting and lose time under braking.

There are other benefits to using a manual clutch though - it does give you a bit more control, the opportunity to disengage drive when the car's a bit too sideways can be a big plus, and of course the opposite - being able to let the revs drop and then dump the clutch to initiate oversteer if your car doesn't want to corner.

Just use whatever you feel comfortable using in the "road"-type cars, but consider using auto-clutch and sequential shifting in the race cars if you think it's giving everybody else an advantage.

Personally I used a clutch pedal in everything but the single-seaters (including the MRT) simply because they brake so quickly it made it impractical.

Couldn't agree more.

Besides, every one who buys the G25 (including me) buys it "partially" because of the H-shifter, so it would be a great loss not to use it

Quote from ssm :

(we are talking about hairpins right?)

I think we are speaking in a general way

Hi there !

I juste have a quick question... You said that the only requirement for the MoE Safety Car was to use the MoE logo. Which logo do you mean? Is it the league logo, or the race logo? Or both, since the 2nd skinning competition requires both

Thanks for the answer
Good luck for organizing the race

I suggest you take the gears of another setup, adjust your downforce so that you have 2° at front and 1° at rear, and neg camber on the outside tires and pos on the inside, this should do the trick with a few less lock degrees as I suggested.

I did not introduce myself as well, so I might as well do it now

I am Robin from France, I bought S2 a couple of days after trying the demo, because I was really hooked by the quality of the game!
I am a member of the Nopi Drift team, but I am more of a racer than a drifter, which I do only to let the steam off (even if I think I got quite the hang of it ). It started by drifting for show, but I found that racing provided a much more tangible competition and a higher level of adrenaline
I am a lonely racer, no racing team yet, and I don't really plan on joining one/asking to be part of one. Maybe will I be invited, which I doubt as there are plenty of better racers than me and I love racing under no flagship

I had a G25, which I can't use untill June 2009, as I moved to the United-States for a study year in the University of Washington. So I'm stuck with my laptop's touchpad (yaaaaaaaay ). I spend more time studying the tracks and my racing skills in the pure sense, so that I'll be able to get even better times with the G25 (I'm improving all my pbs and my average hotlaps by now ).

IRL, I am training for the RACE Essec 24 of 2010, which is a 24h team endurance kart race between french universities. So if any French or European people listents to this and is willing to sponsor my team, I'll be glad to have as best results as possible to ensure the best promotion of our sponsors

What controller are you using ?

Quote from Old Timer :

Hi All
I am beginning to feel like a real slow poke,I've been trying and trying to get more than165-170mph in KY Oval but no matter what tweaks I try in garage and momo profile I get worse or no better.Any S that have been sent are either no better or all sliders hard left?i seldom crash,and my lines seem ok,but I can't even keep up to draft.any help?
Ron

Don't try to change your profiler imho. The MOMO is way more than a decent wheel, so the more you alter the profile, the less realistic the game becomes, and so the worse you will get .

Maybe it is because you steer too much in the corners? On a Oval, you don't really need as much lock as in a road track, so maybe try to lower the lock by some degrees (5-7°) and you might be just fine .

Quote :

Today, 18:14 #1
rodrifter
No longer welcome

Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 4

Faaaaaaaast.

I understand, but what do you mean exactly ?

Do you mean that the 30 secs penalty isn't enough?
Or do you mean that the penalty timing is not enough?

If its the second case, then your total time would be 37 seconds. It is the server's Insim that records the wrong time then

I bump this thread to annoy TVE.

And also to say that I'm in!

Pretty close to 1 year old guys

Can you post a replay ?

Because by doing the calculations, the time elapsed between the start of the race and the green light is usually less than 30secs or 45 secs, and since it requires 16secs for the XRG/XFG, it would not be much of a problem...

If the guys jump at the green light, then yeah, since your tires spin a little, you don't go forward. So if you release the clutch a tad before the greenlight, you'll eat some 0.X seconds at the acceleration, without eventually moving before the green... I do this all the time in AutoX ^^

But yeah, post a replay of a guy jumping at the amber light so that I can see what it does (you can use the AI as opponents )

I don't think wreckers deserve a permanent ban from LFS, whereas cheaters do.
This is for the simple reason that cheating messes with the physics of LFS, while wrecking messes with the rules of each server.
In that case, it is as if the cheater was Neo in the Matrix, who is pursued and banned by the LFS Agent Scawen, Agent Erik and Agent Viktor.

On the other hand, since the LFS engine does not simulate driving rules, and since each server has its own wrecker policy, then the server's authorities will take the appropriate measures. As a matter of fact, maybe the guy's got his account taken by his little angry brother, and things will tame down. Maybe he could become a Demolition Derby superstar and become more mature... You never know.

Well, driving in the curb just before turning in can be beneficial, since as you said the curb have less grip. In that case, you can get a slight oversteer with your rear outside tire sliding lightly there which will improve turn in, and the tire will gain grip again on the road.

IMHO, having a setup that never locks the brake is not going to be helpful when it's time to improve. As a matter of fact, a brake setup that lock the wheels will make you have to simulate an ABS, or to find the threshold poit, which is always beneficial for your training Your motions will becomre faster and sharper after

Quote from rockclan :

BUMP

This was a great idea

Wow man, you got guts to bump your 13 monthes old thread

Thank you robt and S14.

@robt : I tried your setups and I have to say that with full lock they are pretty close to what I'm used to drive. They are though more stable, I think it is due to a softer suspension and a softer rear damping, which give a very nice exit smoothness. I tried to apply your toe settings to my own setup, and I have to say that this was a good idea, I can now do a FE3R 1st split without much effort that is better than my PB's. Thank you very much I think I should try to use your setup more often to see what can I improve to mine.

@S14 and robt This would be really nice to drive with you. Unfortunately, I am at the other end of the world (Seattle, Wa, USA) so I think the time here is GMT-8:00 so it might be really hard to find an appointment But I'll keep it in mind and as soon as I see one of you guys online, i'll join you

Thanks again!

Quote from Erazotropa :

Amen! Zen

Thanks that solved it right away!

Stupid me hehe i should have known this...

Many thanks

Bjorn

Hehe my pleasure

I watched the first replay, and I think I have the answer for your problems.

First of all, your inputs are too harsh. I play on a mouse during this time (I had a G25, but I'm not at home until June ) and you really need to be smooth with it. As someone said above, you countersteer too much, but also too fast.

And this leads to another issue, your set seems to be way too understeery. You need a really oversteery set, both on and off power, in the suspension, the wheels settings as well (but don't go yet to supers in front). I won't explain why, but you could be able to figure it out by yourself

Press L to activate/deactivate the speed limiter

There is only one the the race cars except the MRT and the FBM (not in the road legal cars).

Well I agree that limiting the road car gearboxes to aftermarket choice is a nice option.
Three choices (low speed, long gears and close ratio) seem to be interestingly convenient. However, we would need to keep a larger choice of the Final sprocket, because it is virtually possible to adapt lots of different final sprockets in gearboxes

I would like to see this, only if the devs give us back the possibility of precisely adjusting the differential in the XRG/XFG. We all know that a detroit locker is what the XFG would need, while the XRG could perform excessively well with a 1.5way LSD (80% power / 40% coast). There are lots of aftermarket differential for old cars like this, so I don't understand why changing separately the coast/power is not possible.

Quote from Dizzydarryn :

I was just curious why u not interested in using the WR sets. They generally a very good base to apply tweaks to so aid your driving style!

Yeah, you are right, this is what I usually do for more powerful cars. Just that the XRG/XFG setups seems a bit weird.

Quote from Dizzydarryn :

Why dont you like the WR sets?

what id reccommend, would be to play around between ur set and the WR set, by doing this you'de also be learning what changes actually do i.e. softer front damping improves front traction and so on!

As for the technical stuff, let me rather not comment

Well, it's not that I don't like the WR setups, but I really don't like the understeer caused by the locked diff (in entries).

About the front damping, well a softer front damping improves front traction in entries and rear in exits, in a FR car with more mass on the front up to a certain point. Indeed, if your front damping is set too low, you will transfer too much weight for the front tires to carry, which will result in an understeer (especially in some fern bay corners, such as the hairpin in the FE1R FE3R configuration).

Thanks for the help

Hey there guys, I did a quick search but did not find any useful topics concerning my problem.

I have a really big problem with the XRG@Fern Bay, especially FE1, FE1R, FE3 and FE3R.
Basically, it feels like my tires do not have grip at all (normals obviously), so i usually get a really bad understeer in entries, and a really bad oversteer in exits, which makes my times stagnate quite far from the WR.
I tried with a lot of different pressures (I usually was riding with 175-180 kpa on both the front and the rear), and it seems I get this problem all the time.

It may come from my suspension, I have a tad stiffer springs and ARB than the WR setups (I like it better), the same rear damping, and a tad stiffer front damping, because I found it optimized more the tire heating and the overall handling. I have the same ratios for spring/ARB stiffnesses
I ride with a 80% Clutch Pack LSD, with 150 preload in order to facilitate my entries without sacrifying much exit power. I ride with no toe, and my camber is -4.1 at the rear and -2.3 at the front, which I'm very comfortable with.

So please can someone give me some advices about the way to improve the setup, and maybe my driving technique (I usually trail brake around the corners, but my brake bias is only 68% so I don't really understeer bad).

Usually, my front wheels start losing grip just a moment after I entered the corner, and my rear wheels some moments after putting the power down (like they grip weel for half a second, then one spins).

Thank you so much for any advice