New replay of basically the same thing.

Quote from vlado_skopsko :

I havent seen the replay but im sure you have auto clutch on, so it is the clutch axis that you are seeing.I hope you already noticed that

No, its not the clutch I know which axis my clutch is on + if you had watched the replay you would have seen that it is the hand brake.

Quote from Stefani24 :

Not thats the handbrake.
On the grids its useful (bl1, /wo it you would be rolling down)
but its a bit annoying that it gets standing when yuo pushed it one time while standing

Quote from ajp71 :

My suggestion would be not to automatically apply the handbrake ever and remove the handbrake from the single seaters and GTR cars. Instead the foot brake could be applied when necessary.

Quote from AjRose :

I kind of like the handbrake staying on. It comes in handy occasionally. I could live without it but I dont think it makes enough of a difference.

Oooh, an even better idea came to me out of all of those ideas!

Make auto hand-brake an option in the controls section just like auto clutch. However auto hand-brake will have to be on initially on race start to prevent penalties.

Sorry the Replay is now out of date from the official patch. I will make a new one.

Last edited by legoflamb, Wed 23 Jul 2008, 01:56. Reason : new info

Quote from Jouman :

When you are taking the inside lane, i think the options are limited. You'll have to brake quite early as you are turning in tighter then you usually need to take the corner. Also the inside tends to be a lot more crowded and cause of this going in a really slow pace.

I've also noticed that it is good to leave a bit extra room for the car in front of you before the braking of the corner. When doing this there is a little more reaction time when the car ahead starts braking.

actually from the inside a car can break harder and deeper because the entrance line is straighter. (see image) - Lines are exaggerated.

However, I agree that the outside is usually safer as long as you are racing with competent drivers.

Last edited by legoflamb, Sat 12 Jul 2008, 07:49.

Quote from mcintyrej :

Nice guide Becky, though I prefer my own method:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=0z0ENeMDiiY

Off/T
Can i have that replay!??!?! i 'wana' get a good slow motion shot of that!

On/T
Great how-to, I hope everybody gets a chance to read this, new-comer or old-veteran, sometimes people just need to be reminded.

When leaving the pits, lined up at the starting grid for race start, or when the car is completely stopped(hand-brake applied after stop) the hand-brake stays on, regardless if the button or axis is: not pressed, or in the neutral "zero" position. The only way to disengage the hand-brake is to apply enough torque to get the car moving. You can test it yourself, if you do not already know, by pulling out of the pits in a any type of car. From there pull to a complete stop and reactivate the hand-brake, if you release the hand brake you will see that the brake indicator light is still on. If you are on a hill after releasing the hand-brake, the car will not move. (I will upload a .spr)

This is a hindrance when taking off from the grid or pulling out of the garage with a low-torque first gear because the car can not move freely until there is enough torque applied. However, the auto hand-brake is still needed because there are start positions and pit garages that are not perfectly level. If the auto hand brake were not there, the start grid would be chaos because people would forget to apply and hold their hand-brake button or axis causing many penalties and forced pits.

I have come up with a solution to prevent the start grid chaos if the auto hand-brake were ever removed:

Keep the initial auto hand-brake feature, however when the hand-brake is activated manually, deactivate auto hand-brake so that if the hand-brake were to be released it would also be released in game.

In the replay, I fully demonstrate that my hand-brake is working properly and that the brake stays on when stopped, even if the brake is only applied a small amount, to the best of my abilities. I recommend trying it your self because I have no way of proving that I am not holding the hand-brake my self.

Be sure to go to Options> Display> Pedals: yes, and to spectate in a view where the pedals will be shown.

Replay obsolete, new replay 6 posts down.

Last edited by legoflamb, Wed 23 Jul 2008, 02:12. Reason : replay obsolete

Quote from JasonJ :

Nail on head moment ^_^

maybe that'll clarify any misunderstandings.

when you type the command to change the track the reverse direction is indicated by an 'R', I think.

Example: SO1, SO1R.



Then again, if you don't already know the direction of the non-reverse track, the 'R' will not help. .

+ (n-1) <---(so I don't have to count the +'s) for the colder tires

and +1 for the adjustable temps for the cars that would most likely have tire warmers.

amazing, with all the new stuff, the update flow feels like it was at the beginning of last year or some time around then when all those updates were coming out.

I still don't understand how this is still happening, and I would like to know the cause of the problems that have not been answered yet.

Making suggestions for the demo that require more content to fulfill is comparable to someone giving you a free car, then you ask them, "can you get that to me in blue?" (car not originally blue) If you were the one giving the free car away I could imagine you would be thinking/saying "WTF, its a free car take it or leave it!"

Now if you have a suggestion that might actually make the game play better then suggest away, but don't go suggesting more content especially when there is some that is legally accessible via. older patches.

Amazing, nice addition to the LFSW.

Oh yeah I meant F11

O/T:
*snip*

Quote from scipy :

I just moved all the brake bias to the rear and drove it until the pitstop where we fixed damage.

Is the brake-bias-adjust able to be set to an axis? Or did you just use F12?

From what I have read in this post, there has been no proof of that^,as the giver of the evidence (AndroidXP) seems confused which it is, unless Scawen comes and clarifies.

No problem at all.

In the logitech profiler, go to: options> Global Device settings> then un-check the combine pedals box.

The drag race is in the Auto X track menu.

The FXR seems to be the most difficult for me because it seems to over steer unexpectedly, however I have little experience with it, but its because of that problem.

Quote from DragonCommando :

Road cars tend to have lower ratios than race cars. I'd still like to see you outbrake someone who has a car set up for racing. You use engine and they use brakes, see who slows down faster. Hell you can use BOTH and they will slow down faster than you on brakes alone. Not because of skill, but because the car is set up better.

I don't know who said heel & toe is used for engine braking, but when the clutch is engaged, and not in neutral, the effect of the engine slowing down the car is present, if the driver is not equalizing the throttle for their speed.

I definitely agree that no amount of engine breaking can match a perfectly set up break bias, however when trail breaking, in the corners where it is not completely useless, having that rear bias will upset the rear tires while turning. While I don't have my bias set to where both front and rear use maximum grip at the same instant while going straight, the bias is not too far from that either.

My statement about shortening braking distance in my firs post is wrong, as it was based off of the way I set up my baking bias.

Last edited by legoflamb, Wed 23 Apr 2008, 19:49. Reason : changed defiantly to definitely

Then it is just my setup, I don't like the engine "boging" down when enter a corner, so I set the rear bias a bit lower and use the engine to get the rest of those rear tires while breaking. I blip the throttle so that the rear tire don't lock up aka rev matching. As long as I don't ride the throttle as I down shift, I still get the compression breaking.

Edit: Like I said its a driver preference, and you do as you like. On another note I trail-brake into some corners, if the bias is too rear dependent, then the car would over steer into those corners that I trail-brake into.

Last edited by legoflamb, Mon 21 Apr 2008, 05:45.

Using the clutch for the H-shift cars is something you'll have to get used to. If you had an H-shifter you would have to press the clutch every shift.

However, when down shifting you could just hold the clutch down and cycle through the gears until you get to the correct gear you need to be in for the corner, then just rev match once. The problem with this is that you could shorten your break distance by engaging each gear as you down shift.

Whether it is good practice or not is up to the driver, some racers (including me) still heel & toe in the XRR and FXR, even though you don't have to use the clutch on down shifts.

Is the throttle being shown? (in options>Display>show pedals)

Quote from richukss :

Oh, thanks for explaining, then that's ok, i was a bit scaried about demo crashers in s2 servers

I directed my comment at you, but it was meant for anyone who was confused or seemed worried that their online races would be ruined by demo drivers.

Thank you, I knew I was forgetting something.

if the file is too large, it wont be accepted for upload. when you go to "Manage attachments" make sure the file size is lower than the maximum.