it's only a very small bonfire, piss away! 
might be worth re-stickying the old thread if it got unstuck somehow.
might be worth re-stickying the old thread if it got unstuck somehow.
Becky,
In order that I may save my subwoofer from ejecting the cone from its box, and that I still may listen to your broadcasts on the telly downstairs nice and loud, I would like offer sponsoring you one of these. It's a microphone pop shield, cuts out the megabass on the P's and B's in words. PM me if you're interested.:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-Pop-sh ... ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
In order that I may save my subwoofer from ejecting the cone from its box, and that I still may listen to your broadcasts on the telly downstairs nice and loud, I would like offer sponsoring you one of these. It's a microphone pop shield, cuts out the megabass on the P's and B's in words. PM me if you're interested.:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-Pop-sh ... ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
977's Guide to Crashing
So I'm too tired to play LFS competitively, but I'm not ready to sleep yet, time to fill the gap, how about writing a guide for the forum? Seeing as racing lines, set-ups and the like have been done to death, I thought I'd go for something a little different, crashing. Before reading this : if you have a set-up without a clutch, assign a button, if you don't have a shifter, use the buttons, if you don't have more than 270 degrees lock, well, the flailing arms of doom will be easier for you!
Crashing happens a lot in Live for Speed, but until you get enough practice to get around a 30 lap race fast without dropping a wheel off the edge of the track, being good/considerate about crashing might help, there are two sections here, dealing with a spin and what causes a spin, so here you go:
Spinning -
In the words of Skip Barber, if you're not sliding into the corner, backing the rear in, you're not going fast enough. The slide needs to be at the slip angles which provide the most grip round the corner. (yes, tyres provide the most grip when they're slipping slightly, they can also provide more lateral grip than downward force is applied, they're not simple!)
On the other hand, if you get a bit out of shape, to the point where the inertia of the rear of the car can't be stopped, and it goes past 90 degrees, you've spun, congratulations.
The first thing you should do, is try and save the situation. When the rear end is setting up an overtake for the front, it's time for the flailing arms of doom. You want correction, as much of it as you can get a hold of and as fast as possible, if one turn of the DFP/G25 isn't enough, grab another handful until either you correct it, or you run out of lock. If you don't save it, the show is over, most of the field is about to come past you, if they haven't already, in which case, skip the next section and get on with "the golden rule". If on the other hand you've got no one else near you to crash into, treat each spin like a new spin, and try and catch the momentum
This is ONLY applicable if you have no other drivers around you to take out, if you do have anyone near you, it's golden rule time. If you do stop the yaw increasing anywhere up to about 75 degrees, you'll find yourself in the "pause". This pause is smaller in LFS than in real life due to the tyre physics, but it is there, and it is your cue to start unwinding all that lock you wrenched round just seconds before. Drifters (and they're inferior) do this bend after bend after bend, so don't tell me you can't get it right. Look where you want to be going, and don't forget you may have to unwind the wheel even faster than you yanked it round, just don't do it until the pause!
Recovery is all about anticipation, and if you don't work slightly faster than the physics of your car, you'll find yourself fish tailing like a sex-starved salmon. Either a death wiggle, lots of fast oscillations, or a tank slapper, where the back end of your car is getting its metronome impersonation skills up. Either of these and you're not working hard enough to save it! I always hear the term "over correction" at this point, which is a lie, it's just the right amount of correction, but no-where near enough recovery.
Everything above is great if you've got 5 cars space in any given direction, but if you think you're about to spin, and you've got anyone near you, it's time for the golden rule.
"If you spin, put both feet in."
apply all the brakes you own, even the handbrake if the rear tyres aren't locked up, and clutch in to try and keep the engine running. You will find yourself going in a nice, straight, predictable line at a tangent to the last arc of travel you were on (even if the car is facing completely the wrong direction). The merit of this is that it'll make you far less unpopular with other drivers, an object heading in a uniform direction, rapidly losing speed is a lot easier to dodge than any other kind of moving object.
Don't let off the brakes until you have stopped, and I mean, really stopped. So often I see a car let off the brakes at 30mph, only to suddenly catch grip and dart across into the path of a car trying its best not to kill you, and suddenly your both out of the race. You will be surprised how quickly locking up the brakes will stop you, especially in the lighter cars fitted with slicks. You can be busy changing down to first at this point while you're waiting for the car to stop, it's not like there's anything else you can be doing.
If you have a clear view of what's coming, and you're anything up to 10ft near a section of track that's safer than the one you've stopped on (for example a grass verge), pull out the way of other cars, but only if you can see what's coming at you, if you cant see, just stay put until you can't hear any engine but yours idling!
Don't get frustrated by the spin, if you do, most likely you'll give it too much gas pulling away to go again, and provide extra amusement for the people watching, by spinning, or power-understeering into a wall. Also, try and work out what you did wrong, although for the most part its obvious, but we'll come to that later. Remember also, that you may need to straighten the front wheels, which can be forced into an un-natural degree of lock by the process of losing control.
If you lose it, and you make it to a barrier, be mindful of the fact your car may well be un-drivable, no matter how up your competitive blood is, and also that, in the process of stuffing it, you may have cooked your tyres, and will need to take it easy till you get to the pits.
And now, for
Common Errors.
TTO - trailing throttle oversteer (lift off oversteer/that bit where you come off the gas and you suddenly are facing the wrong direction). If you're driving with Race_S set-ups you'll know all about this! It can happen anywhere in the corner, and sometimes even on straights! You need to be more progressive with letting off the throttle to avoid the back end coming out faster than any one can save it. This is often as a result of other mistakes, when you panic, and stop being so smooth.
The mis-matched down shift - works the same as above, be more gentle with your clutch, or more positive with your heeling of the throttle. In some cases, changing down later helps, but for the most part, it is the down shift method rather than the time of down shift that causes the driving wheels to lose traction.
Early Apex - Every new racers favourite! If you've spun in the second half of the corner, especially from dropping wheels off the track, this classic mistake in terms of line choice could be your problem. It's also often present where drivers alter line to account for other cars, without making changes to speed.
If you arn't at the limit, squeeze off to 25% throttle, and bend the car in further, hopefully you wont run out of road, if you're at the limit when you realise there isn't enough tarmac left for you, you'll drop a wheel or three into the dirt, and you'll know what a food mixer feels like. Put one foot on the brake, one on the cluch, and push down for all you're worth.
Returning to the Track - if you've come off the road and shot along the grass for a bit, remember that when you get back on, that the amount of lock you're using, is probably far too much, to account for the grass.
If you don't adjust before the front wheels hit the tarmac, you'll simply dart across the tarmac onto the other side, or back onto your own allotment. This can also be the case if you apply too much power on the grass, and one driving wheel suddenly hits the grippy stuff. This is most important if there are other cars about for you to destroy.
Going to deep - as you get good, your brake points get deeper and deeper, eventually, you're driving at the limit, sometimes, for one reason or another, you go too deep, and your entry speed is VERY optimistic.
The turn in point comes and goes with barely a change in direction, and you fill your pants.
Corner radius is a direct mathematical function of speed, so either you're going to have to go wide, or you're going to have to find a way of slowing down. A little fast, you'll miss the apex by a few feet, way too fast, you'll miss it by the width of the race track.
Trail braking and bending the car back towards the line can help here, but don't lock up, otherwise the show is over and you're off the track. If you've got a rear wheel drive car with plenty of power, it's possible to use oversteer to bend the trajectory back towards the line, but then again, if you can do that, you probably aren't going to be reading this guide!
Failing to warm up - saw this on the STCC round 3 broadcast today, XRT driver, pit stop, change of tyres, back on the road, straight off again, warm your tyres up before wandering near your usual limit!
Stack-up - If you fail to anticipate the braking of the car in front, you will most likely drill them off the track, this will make you very unpopular, and there isn't really any excuse. You have to apply the brakes proportionally to the distance back in the field you are approaching the corner. For example, if your 7th back, you'll need to be on the brakes about 110ft sooner than the first car through! The first half a lap is always very slow as a result of this, and until you get some space, you wont be able to get anywhere near your pb, don't try, or you'll shaft someone, vote kicked afterwards most likely.
That pretty much concludes my guide, hope it helps someone be less of a liability!
Crashing happens a lot in Live for Speed, but until you get enough practice to get around a 30 lap race fast without dropping a wheel off the edge of the track, being good/considerate about crashing might help, there are two sections here, dealing with a spin and what causes a spin, so here you go:
Spinning -
In the words of Skip Barber, if you're not sliding into the corner, backing the rear in, you're not going fast enough. The slide needs to be at the slip angles which provide the most grip round the corner. (yes, tyres provide the most grip when they're slipping slightly, they can also provide more lateral grip than downward force is applied, they're not simple!)
On the other hand, if you get a bit out of shape, to the point where the inertia of the rear of the car can't be stopped, and it goes past 90 degrees, you've spun, congratulations.
The first thing you should do, is try and save the situation. When the rear end is setting up an overtake for the front, it's time for the flailing arms of doom. You want correction, as much of it as you can get a hold of and as fast as possible, if one turn of the DFP/G25 isn't enough, grab another handful until either you correct it, or you run out of lock. If you don't save it, the show is over, most of the field is about to come past you, if they haven't already, in which case, skip the next section and get on with "the golden rule". If on the other hand you've got no one else near you to crash into, treat each spin like a new spin, and try and catch the momentum
This is ONLY applicable if you have no other drivers around you to take out, if you do have anyone near you, it's golden rule time. If you do stop the yaw increasing anywhere up to about 75 degrees, you'll find yourself in the "pause". This pause is smaller in LFS than in real life due to the tyre physics, but it is there, and it is your cue to start unwinding all that lock you wrenched round just seconds before. Drifters (and they're inferior) do this bend after bend after bend, so don't tell me you can't get it right. Look where you want to be going, and don't forget you may have to unwind the wheel even faster than you yanked it round, just don't do it until the pause!
Recovery is all about anticipation, and if you don't work slightly faster than the physics of your car, you'll find yourself fish tailing like a sex-starved salmon. Either a death wiggle, lots of fast oscillations, or a tank slapper, where the back end of your car is getting its metronome impersonation skills up. Either of these and you're not working hard enough to save it! I always hear the term "over correction" at this point, which is a lie, it's just the right amount of correction, but no-where near enough recovery.
Everything above is great if you've got 5 cars space in any given direction, but if you think you're about to spin, and you've got anyone near you, it's time for the golden rule.
"If you spin, put both feet in."
apply all the brakes you own, even the handbrake if the rear tyres aren't locked up, and clutch in to try and keep the engine running. You will find yourself going in a nice, straight, predictable line at a tangent to the last arc of travel you were on (even if the car is facing completely the wrong direction). The merit of this is that it'll make you far less unpopular with other drivers, an object heading in a uniform direction, rapidly losing speed is a lot easier to dodge than any other kind of moving object.
Don't let off the brakes until you have stopped, and I mean, really stopped. So often I see a car let off the brakes at 30mph, only to suddenly catch grip and dart across into the path of a car trying its best not to kill you, and suddenly your both out of the race. You will be surprised how quickly locking up the brakes will stop you, especially in the lighter cars fitted with slicks. You can be busy changing down to first at this point while you're waiting for the car to stop, it's not like there's anything else you can be doing.
If you have a clear view of what's coming, and you're anything up to 10ft near a section of track that's safer than the one you've stopped on (for example a grass verge), pull out the way of other cars, but only if you can see what's coming at you, if you cant see, just stay put until you can't hear any engine but yours idling!
Don't get frustrated by the spin, if you do, most likely you'll give it too much gas pulling away to go again, and provide extra amusement for the people watching, by spinning, or power-understeering into a wall. Also, try and work out what you did wrong, although for the most part its obvious, but we'll come to that later. Remember also, that you may need to straighten the front wheels, which can be forced into an un-natural degree of lock by the process of losing control.
If you lose it, and you make it to a barrier, be mindful of the fact your car may well be un-drivable, no matter how up your competitive blood is, and also that, in the process of stuffing it, you may have cooked your tyres, and will need to take it easy till you get to the pits.
And now, for
Common Errors.
TTO - trailing throttle oversteer (lift off oversteer/that bit where you come off the gas and you suddenly are facing the wrong direction). If you're driving with Race_S set-ups you'll know all about this! It can happen anywhere in the corner, and sometimes even on straights! You need to be more progressive with letting off the throttle to avoid the back end coming out faster than any one can save it. This is often as a result of other mistakes, when you panic, and stop being so smooth.
The mis-matched down shift - works the same as above, be more gentle with your clutch, or more positive with your heeling of the throttle. In some cases, changing down later helps, but for the most part, it is the down shift method rather than the time of down shift that causes the driving wheels to lose traction.
Early Apex - Every new racers favourite! If you've spun in the second half of the corner, especially from dropping wheels off the track, this classic mistake in terms of line choice could be your problem. It's also often present where drivers alter line to account for other cars, without making changes to speed.
If you arn't at the limit, squeeze off to 25% throttle, and bend the car in further, hopefully you wont run out of road, if you're at the limit when you realise there isn't enough tarmac left for you, you'll drop a wheel or three into the dirt, and you'll know what a food mixer feels like. Put one foot on the brake, one on the cluch, and push down for all you're worth.
Returning to the Track - if you've come off the road and shot along the grass for a bit, remember that when you get back on, that the amount of lock you're using, is probably far too much, to account for the grass.
If you don't adjust before the front wheels hit the tarmac, you'll simply dart across the tarmac onto the other side, or back onto your own allotment. This can also be the case if you apply too much power on the grass, and one driving wheel suddenly hits the grippy stuff. This is most important if there are other cars about for you to destroy.
Going to deep - as you get good, your brake points get deeper and deeper, eventually, you're driving at the limit, sometimes, for one reason or another, you go too deep, and your entry speed is VERY optimistic.
The turn in point comes and goes with barely a change in direction, and you fill your pants.
Corner radius is a direct mathematical function of speed, so either you're going to have to go wide, or you're going to have to find a way of slowing down. A little fast, you'll miss the apex by a few feet, way too fast, you'll miss it by the width of the race track.
Trail braking and bending the car back towards the line can help here, but don't lock up, otherwise the show is over and you're off the track. If you've got a rear wheel drive car with plenty of power, it's possible to use oversteer to bend the trajectory back towards the line, but then again, if you can do that, you probably aren't going to be reading this guide!
Failing to warm up - saw this on the STCC round 3 broadcast today, XRT driver, pit stop, change of tyres, back on the road, straight off again, warm your tyres up before wandering near your usual limit!
Stack-up - If you fail to anticipate the braking of the car in front, you will most likely drill them off the track, this will make you very unpopular, and there isn't really any excuse. You have to apply the brakes proportionally to the distance back in the field you are approaching the corner. For example, if your 7th back, you'll need to be on the brakes about 110ft sooner than the first car through! The first half a lap is always very slow as a result of this, and until you get some space, you wont be able to get anywhere near your pb, don't try, or you'll shaft someone, vote kicked afterwards most likely.
That pretty much concludes my guide, hope it helps someone be less of a liability!
Last edited by z3r0c00l, .
there's always a non-competative option, it's called single player! 
I would however appreciate a thin twisty race track with extreme changes of gradient, take the run down off the highway in southcity reverse configs, brilliant section! Bathurst track was awesome about 1992, some crazy downhill chicanes, like, REALLY downhill!
as for that video, bet the co-pilot needed a change of pants, the driver on the other hand, was too busy trying to stay alive to notice!!
I would however appreciate a thin twisty race track with extreme changes of gradient, take the run down off the highway in southcity reverse configs, brilliant section! Bathurst track was awesome about 1992, some crazy downhill chicanes, like, REALLY downhill!
as for that video, bet the co-pilot needed a change of pants, the driver on the other hand, was too busy trying to stay alive to notice!!
get pissed off as today's autocross was cancelled at the last minute,
go out for a ride on my bike to cheer up,
get phone calls from bored other people also wanting motorsport,
invite everyone round, entry fee is food,
burn STCC 3 to VCD,
slap in DVD player,
crank the volume on 5.1 super stereo impersonation,
everyone fight for a good seat on the sofas,
laugh at "mebbe aisle pewt inna foo moar pussent, jussta beh sho'"
(not the accent, the fact he ran out of fuel.... ouch lol)
scream and shout for and against various drivers,
finish thoroughly cheered up!
speculate over results for the next round,
go and play lfs
been a good day so far
Another stunning broadcast, I have absolutely no major criticisms, nor any minor ones that weren't a product of circumstances well beyond your control.
Thank you Becky, and thank you STCC drivers for taking it so seriously and presenting a well simulated, Touring Car Cup League.
go out for a ride on my bike to cheer up,
get phone calls from bored other people also wanting motorsport,
invite everyone round, entry fee is food,
burn STCC 3 to VCD,
slap in DVD player,
crank the volume on 5.1 super stereo impersonation,
everyone fight for a good seat on the sofas,
laugh at "mebbe aisle pewt inna foo moar pussent, jussta beh sho'"
(not the accent, the fact he ran out of fuel.... ouch lol)
scream and shout for and against various drivers,
finish thoroughly cheered up!
speculate over results for the next round,
go and play lfs
been a good day so far
Another stunning broadcast, I have absolutely no major criticisms, nor any minor ones that weren't a product of circumstances well beyond your control.
Thank you Becky, and thank you STCC drivers for taking it so seriously and presenting a well simulated, Touring Car Cup League.
Really stunning, I look forward to these broadcasts so much (if you want to know why, put one of the rounds on DVD on one TV, and then have a tv for each channel there too, see which one you pay attention to most!)
If you're interested in Classical Music, I have a few albums by the portsmouth sinfonia, an orchestra, who, while very competant, decided, it would be fun to swap instruments with someone else in the orchestra, i.e, for one they couldn't play, even though they know the songs inside out! The results is easily recognisable, out of shere grinding effort from the people playing, an interesting listen!
Back on Topic, Everyone I've shown the STCC to has started watching it, even those who'd rather play NFS Carbon that LFS right now! Great teaser!
If you're interested in Classical Music, I have a few albums by the portsmouth sinfonia, an orchestra, who, while very competant, decided, it would be fun to swap instruments with someone else in the orchestra, i.e, for one they couldn't play, even though they know the songs inside out! The results is easily recognisable, out of shere grinding effort from the people playing, an interesting listen!
Back on Topic, Everyone I've shown the STCC to has started watching it, even those who'd rather play NFS Carbon that LFS right now! Great teaser!
keys : 7890, left indicate, right indicate, hazard lights, no lights respectively.
I think that's right anyway, something around there!
I think that's right anyway, something around there!
Tyres provide the most cornering force when they are marginally past their limit (say, 10% as a ballpark figure), this accounts for those last tiny tenths of a second being fast, as it can be as much as 2-3mph by the end of the straight coming after corner. In this respect, the Senna fanboy is right. (no disrespect, atleast not to the legend himself!!)
On the other hand, no-one but the hotlap kings can drive this way in LFS, certainly not in a race situation! Essentially being smooth is the key for everyone who's going to read this forum, just so long as they remember that being smooth is not the same as being slow, I can apply the throttle smoothly in half a second, but I wouldn't call that a slow application.
Also, the transition is not uniform, I'll get on 75% of gas on in the first 50% of the application, and squeeze on the rest... throttle modulation to avoid wheelspin is key in all but the least powerful cars.
Secondly, where racing is concerned, points are given 20 points for the consistant average fastest laps (i.e fastest over race duration) and ability to get the car past other cars (read - stable car condition), and only 1 point bonus for fastest lap... You'll often see the fastest lap driver is 3rd down the grid in the return to parc ferm....
hotlapping is a stunning skill, one where you find those last half mph's, max respect, but the people who are into hotlapping wont be reading this forum section... and I'm bored of being crashed out by people gettin' their foodmixer skills on into the side of my car...
Quick and smooth, keep the rear planted, apex late, squeeze the brakes on smoothly, apply the gas smoothly, look ahead, and look to your sides - you've got to finish before you can finish first.
On the other hand, no-one but the hotlap kings can drive this way in LFS, certainly not in a race situation! Essentially being smooth is the key for everyone who's going to read this forum, just so long as they remember that being smooth is not the same as being slow, I can apply the throttle smoothly in half a second, but I wouldn't call that a slow application.
Also, the transition is not uniform, I'll get on 75% of gas on in the first 50% of the application, and squeeze on the rest... throttle modulation to avoid wheelspin is key in all but the least powerful cars.
Secondly, where racing is concerned, points are given 20 points for the consistant average fastest laps (i.e fastest over race duration) and ability to get the car past other cars (read - stable car condition), and only 1 point bonus for fastest lap... You'll often see the fastest lap driver is 3rd down the grid in the return to parc ferm....
hotlapping is a stunning skill, one where you find those last half mph's, max respect, but the people who are into hotlapping wont be reading this forum section... and I'm bored of being crashed out by people gettin' their foodmixer skills on into the side of my car...
Quick and smooth, keep the rear planted, apex late, squeeze the brakes on smoothly, apply the gas smoothly, look ahead, and look to your sides - you've got to finish before you can finish first.
You shouldn't be reacting to the corner, you should be anticipating the corner. Looking further ahead is the best way to make it feel like you have much more time to prepare for an entry.
The UF1 sound is especially brilliant! 
The slight oversteer is present, well, more neutral steer where possible, throughout the entire corner with the very best drivers, this is because tyres develop their maximum traction at roughly a 10% slip angle (huge generalisation alert), so if you want to get the maximum cornering and acceleration/braking force from them, you have to slip them ever so slightly all the time you're changing speed/direction.
This looks like "floating/oversteering" round the corner, but you will probably find the slip is roughly equal on all four wheels, and the car doesn't look like it's pointing where it should be, but actually it maximises the G forces available from the car. After a while driving like this, it feels exactly right though, and anything else looks like underworking the tyres.
You will find that Biggie's traction circle is nigh on perfect, especially with the car being set up as well as it always is.
This looks like "floating/oversteering" round the corner, but you will probably find the slip is roughly equal on all four wheels, and the car doesn't look like it's pointing where it should be, but actually it maximises the G forces available from the car. After a while driving like this, it feels exactly right though, and anything else looks like underworking the tyres.
You will find that Biggie's traction circle is nigh on perfect, especially with the car being set up as well as it always is.
Last edited by z3r0c00l, .
can anyone mp3 the start melody for this game? I can't do it because of the way my pc changes it's clock speed to play the game.... the sound recorder just get's mullered.....
i love this game, have done since 89, when I was JUST old enuf to play it on easy.
i love this game, have done since 89, when I was JUST old enuf to play it on easy.
Stunning sounds,
much better if you turn up the backfires, and then make each freq range progressively louder, (altho i bump the idle loudness cuz I like to hear it RUMBLE). Really good samples tho, hats off to ya
much better if you turn up the backfires, and then make each freq range progressively louder, (altho i bump the idle loudness cuz I like to hear it RUMBLE). Really good samples tho, hats off to ya
A lot of cars pre 1990 are measured from the non driven wheels, there are not any wires involved, there are however cables etc. Taking it from the differential is newer technology.
Generalizations save time ONLY when talking to stupid people.
by the way, you asked me to name any real vehicle similar to any car in LFS that didn't take the speedometer off the differential (takes it from the front left wheel), well here it is:
Transmission Renault five-speed manual
Suspension front: Double wishbones with coil springs, telescopic shocks, and anti-roll bar
rear:Semi-trailing arms, coil springs, and telescopic shocks
Tires front:195/60HR14
rear:Goodyear NCT 235/60HR15
Brakes front: Discs
rear: Discs
Horsepower 145 bhp @ 5,500 rpm
Torque 162 lb ft @ 2,750 rpm
"Oh no! I'm about to plug my speedometer cable into something other than the rear diff, this needs MOAR JIGGAWATTS!!11"
Generalizations save time ONLY when talking to stupid people.
by the way, you asked me to name any real vehicle similar to any car in LFS that didn't take the speedometer off the differential (takes it from the front left wheel), well here it is:
Transmission Renault five-speed manual
Suspension front: Double wishbones with coil springs, telescopic shocks, and anti-roll bar
rear:Semi-trailing arms, coil springs, and telescopic shocks
Tires front:195/60HR14
rear:Goodyear NCT 235/60HR15
Brakes front: Discs
rear: Discs
Horsepower 145 bhp @ 5,500 rpm
Torque 162 lb ft @ 2,750 rpm
"Oh no! I'm about to plug my speedometer cable into something other than the rear diff, this needs MOAR JIGGAWATTS!!11"
Last edited by z3r0c00l, .
does anyone know where I can buy one of these? mine's broke, and I miss my FFB
good enough for me to want it, where's the soundset and dat?
You can't change the clocks, they are not skinned but rendered on the fly by LFS. Sorry, as for the rest, the JPEG is not really of high enough quality to be of any use.
I regret making my username the same as my password. 
Stunning application, well executed and awesome in design, thank you very much for all your time in bringing decent sound to everyone
Open source too? you're a legend.
Open source too? you're a legend.
On corner entry, at threshold breaking you have 10% slip on all four tyres, as such the speedo will be measuring 10% slower on threshold breaking for corner entry, this varies as the track changes under the car and the weight gets thrown around and you modulate the brake effort to avoid a lock up or not losing enough speed, so you'll get a different speed for the same actualy velocity on several very similar corner entries to the same corner.... this is not consistant, consistancy comes before improvement. This is only really the case in real life though, seeing as brake pedals are travel measured rather than pressure measured, making brake modulation a nightmare to do accurately and be good at both real world, and USB wheel controller pedals levels. The same applies for exiting the corners, as long as you have more power available than you can use (always the case when maintaining the edge of the traction circle at a corner exit).
None the less, I would also like a realistic speedo, so however it is measured, as long as an implementation for it on a real world car in mass production/race converted format has one, I'm happy. The rest was simply a side note, one considerably larger than the post.
None the less, I would also like a realistic speedo, so however it is measured, as long as an implementation for it on a real world car in mass production/race converted format has one, I'm happy. The rest was simply a side note, one considerably larger than the post.
I have a Matrix Code Emulator that does the Matrix thingy perfectly, and in blue, because I prefer it, looks nice, really smooth.
There was me thinking compared to everything else this was a really fast developing game (doing things right takes a lot longer than the pitiful attemptes by every other driving software developer on the market), and now you're telling me this is your slowest year yet?
Bloody Marvelous!
Bloody Marvelous!
" lap times give you little useful information about particular corners."
Surely if you can't drive each corner consistantly enough to know if a change in line in one corner has affected your laptime in either direction, you arn't consistant enough to be searching for 1-3mph anywhere anyway?
Surely if you can't drive each corner consistantly enough to know if a change in line in one corner has affected your laptime in either direction, you arn't consistant enough to be searching for 1-3mph anywhere anyway?
Firstly - thank you for the stunning broadcast, I was quite depressed when it was over! so I watched it again on the train. Then I watched it a third time when I got everyone over to watch it on the TV with various snacks, was good, they were all really impressed! And yes, he does have suave voice - so suave I had to turn my subwoofer down! lol.
I wouldn't worry about not getting every single person and incident in the video, what you've done there is really good and has far more action than a lot of other footage! The trouble with being a long way down the pack is, unless your faster than the person in front, it's not all that interesting, the racing isn't as close... look at Stupid Aguri in Formula1, when was the last time they were on screen and NOT CRASHING?
Secondly - you may want to look into a program called "Ventrilo".
http://www.ventrilo.com/
Having changed from TeamSpeak to Ventrilo while being park of a CounterStrike clan, I can honestly say it was like going from hearing someone on loudspeaker on their mobile in the london underground, to having them standing in the same room... something about that program makes sure your voice sounds as it normally does, and as such diss-ting-wishable (sp) from everyone else really clearly, and echo free.
Then I watched it a third time when I got everyone over to watch it on the TV with various snacks, was good, they were all really impressed! And yes, he does have suave voice - so suave I had to turn my subwoofer down! lol. I wouldn't worry about not getting every single person and incident in the video, what you've done there is really good and has far more action than a lot of other footage! The trouble with being a long way down the pack is, unless your faster than the person in front, it's not all that interesting, the racing isn't as close... look at Stupid Aguri in Formula1, when was the last time they were on screen and NOT CRASHING?
Secondly - you may want to look into a program called "Ventrilo".
http://www.ventrilo.com/
Having changed from TeamSpeak to Ventrilo while being park of a CounterStrike clan, I can honestly say it was like going from hearing someone on loudspeaker on their mobile in the london underground, to having them standing in the same room... something about that program makes sure your voice sounds as it normally does, and as such diss-ting-wishable (sp) from everyone else really clearly, and echo free.
Last edited by z3r0c00l, .
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG