you need a better set... I find the new physics encourage sliding more, with the forward and sidewards tyre forces seperated a little more.

I'm easily annoyed by people who are easily annoyed

wow... keep a log of fuel usage on each of the what... 900 odd combos?? Or ask and wait for those who are friendly to respond, at the risk of annoying a couple of self righteous pricks? I know what I'd go for.

you are confused somewhere
gear change blip gives the engine a 'blip' when the clutch is pushed in and a lower gear is selected, avoiding rear wheel lockup from compression.

you can very simply adjust the balance of the car with the anti roll bars. more rear bias for oversteer, more front for understeer. Of course, there are likely to be other reasons you lack front end grip, such as camber, tyre pressure, ride height, springs, dampers, final drive, yada yada yada! But anti roll is the easiest effective change.

Quote from SparkyDave :

If its bad pots you will notice it in other games.

games like need for speed or something though will tolerate a lot more random twitching of the wheel and you may not notice...

the behaviour in lfs is realistic for it's current state. You can hold the throttle flat on a gearchange in any car, with a slow revving engine or a rev limiter you will not do engine damage, you'll just cause a lot of clutch wear, which is currently not modelled...

you've got perfectly comprehensive answers, what else do you want?
pages and pages of info could be found by searching, if you really want more opinions / info.

did I miss the bit where it started to look like a psu failure?
Sorry if it's been said, but if it won't POST with a new vid card and stick of ram and everything else unplugged, 95% it's a dead motherboard, the other 5% psu, cpu, or other random option.

I find the tyres much easier to make a set for, myself. it doesn't look as 'balanced' when you have the side sections heavily loaded, but it still grips fine and makes for more balanced tyre wear / heat. Does seem a little over the top, but this was discussed before...

see, I'd be a *huge* fan of someone popularising some sort of 'power / kilogram' method of comparing engines, that to me makes far more sense. Even some 'power / volume' (not displacement, physical size) and 'power / price' wouldn't go astray. The whole displacement thing has no bearing on the driving experience in the slightest. Both my rotary and my 2 stroke put out ridiculous power / litre measurements, but that doesn't have any bearing on how good they are in their application...

fair point Gunn. During the testing I did I went through the whole spectrum of controller settings, tyre pressures, cambers, castors, etc. tried a few different vehicles.

personally I'm happy to bag them specifically because everyone carries on about their power / litre as if it really 'meant something' Since when did power / litre have any effect at all on how well a car drives?

I did some testing with the sound down on the skidpad. It has now become clear that the only understeer I can feel is the transition into understeer because of power, in a fwd. Not sure how I tell on the other cars / situations, assume it must be a combination of visual, auditory, and learned response...

found the ffb rather disappointing during my testing. It feels spot on over bumps, but the movement of the tyres themselves, losing grip / gaining grip etc, is pretty weak / non existant.
Now I'm going to have to find a quiet parking lot and scrub the tyres on my real car

am I just a freak? I can feel the most subtle understeer through the wheel...

edit: I'm not a freak, I'm just wrong

Last edited by Blowtus, Wed 10 May 2006, 22:43.

sliding past the barrier for the first hairpin ends up resetting you back in the middle of the track. Not real healthy if there are other cars around.

depends on the graphical quality you want. The 64 will run higher fps but with crappier looking graphics. the xp should run perfectly reasonable fps anyway, so I'd go for it. A comparable graphics card to the first can be had 2nd hand for about $100, would make a lot more sense to me to go for the newer mainboard / socket design.
edit: sorry, $100 au, thought I was on an aussie forum

Last edited by Blowtus, Wed 10 May 2006, 08:36.

very interesting. according to that r3's should be approximately the same grip as r2's, (both at optimum temp) if the r3's are around 7psi lower.

I love these 'my way is right, realistic, hardcore, sim enthusiast champ of the world' discussions...

Sinbad, like I mentioned earlier about sitting off to the side... this would still be realistic yes? Just without the stupid 'stuffing up every corner' business that having what feels like an artificially offset view causes for me.
When I drive my 'real' car I guess I tend to reference everything from the centre, I don't find this possible in LFS if the view is offset.

wheels view minus the wheels for me. Feels the most realistic. Driving in real life I don't have a problem placing my car where I want it, have a much better spatial awareness. This view partially makes up for that, and it also means the monitor functions more as my windscreen, with all the other crap around here (wheel, desk, etc) as my cockpit. I might try sitting slightly to the right of the monitor and see if it feels more realistic...

there is but that value is highly dependant on everything I mentioned - whereas with pressure, grip, tyre type etc, it's either not at all dependent or only very lightly so.

camber isn't really as 'static' a value as the others... highly dependant on vehicle, vehicle setup, tyre type and pressure.

lrb, this was for a series of 10 lap sprint races, pushing extremely hard and with a fair bit of oversteer necessary for my setup and driving style... so yeah, not quite as clear cut.

I asked because I'd be interested to see the difference in pressure required before r3 had more grip. racing at so long last night in the xrr had me running 95 degrees on certain tyres, perhaps running lower pressure and being able to push harder on r3's would have been worthwhile.