very interesting. according to that r3's should be approximately the same grip as r2's, (both at optimum temp) if the r3's are around 7psi lower.

I love these 'my way is right, realistic, hardcore, sim enthusiast champ of the world' discussions...

Sinbad, like I mentioned earlier about sitting off to the side... this would still be realistic yes? Just without the stupid 'stuffing up every corner' business that having what feels like an artificially offset view causes for me.
When I drive my 'real' car I guess I tend to reference everything from the centre, I don't find this possible in LFS if the view is offset.

wheels view minus the wheels for me. Feels the most realistic. Driving in real life I don't have a problem placing my car where I want it, have a much better spatial awareness. This view partially makes up for that, and it also means the monitor functions more as my windscreen, with all the other crap around here (wheel, desk, etc) as my cockpit. I might try sitting slightly to the right of the monitor and see if it feels more realistic...

there is but that value is highly dependant on everything I mentioned - whereas with pressure, grip, tyre type etc, it's either not at all dependent or only very lightly so.

camber isn't really as 'static' a value as the others... highly dependant on vehicle, vehicle setup, tyre type and pressure.

lrb, this was for a series of 10 lap sprint races, pushing extremely hard and with a fair bit of oversteer necessary for my setup and driving style... so yeah, not quite as clear cut.

I asked because I'd be interested to see the difference in pressure required before r3 had more grip. racing at so long last night in the xrr had me running 95 degrees on certain tyres, perhaps running lower pressure and being able to push harder on r3's would have been worthwhile.

for a given peak output, more cubes makes the engine heaps better from a drivers perspective... I certainly see the purpose of it on the passenger cars, I just think with their 'sports' type models they always seem to push shit uphill instead of using tried and true methods. I'm all for innovation, I just don't like Honda's style of it

excellent stuff!
If you're ever feeling inquisitive again, a few graphs of pressure vs grip for the various compounds would also be very interesting...

honda always seem to want to do things the hard way. Why stuff around with steppy torque curves and fancy technology on a drivers car when more displacement (either in the form of real displacement or forced induction) would be a much nicer option to drive?

Quote from Becky Rose :

Driveability - if the set is edgy you need to fix it, either by steering or suspension geometry or downforce. A single spin in a 1hr race will probably cost you the chance of a win, it'll cost you more places to spin once than the loss in performance of a tenth or two here and there by making the car more stable.

one thing I find interesting on this point is accident avoidance. South city with lots of traffic is an obvious example, but I always find the 'edgier' sets work better there because they allow more chance to stick it sideways in a hurry and scrub off speed pointing the right direction, as opposed to plowing into the wall / vehicle.

funny, I hate the big paddle shifters, I like to just flick my fingers and have the gearchange done...
the quality of the dfp wheel is great, feels so much more solid.

No doubt it depends on driving style / preference, but in any close racing I've been involved in there's no way I'd get a pass on someone in a turn without a mistake first... it's pretty easy to make a car awful wide through turns

how many people wanting to play games really own a mac? What sort of intelligence level does that require? Do we *want* them in LFS?

yup, or the drivers were not fully lifting. no other way for any half working system to do that that I'm aware of...

actually I forgot to mention that I tend to go with a little less downforce... makes you harder to pass and others easier to pass.

With more downforce, when you get dirty air, isn't there going to be a bigger difference in grip level? If you run with no downforce dirty air isn't nearly as big a deal I thought...

you need to make it easy enough to drive on the limit, for your driving style / ability, for however many laps the race is. For someone in need of asking this question this would probably involve a softening of the rear anti roll bar, to reduce the oversteer.

You then need to adjust the tyre pressure and camber for the best compromise of grip. You probably want the inside of the tyres to heat up to about 10 degrees above 'optimum' for the tyre you've selected, and the outside to get around optimum. This will vary, there will often be a 'cold' side of the car that won't get up to temperature, with a bigger variation between inside and outside temp.

Then adjust brakes if need be to reduce lockups.

they could very easily be 'production class' parity modified cars. having parity amongst a purly racing (ie, not building and racing) class makes sense from every perspective...

the fxo is easier to drive faster than the uf1 also...
ie, it's a faster car!

for all the goodness the devs seem to manage, things like this really feel like a lack of playtesting... frustrating.

I'm stuck trying to buy the damn thing...

it's a very good demo - if you don't like it you won't like the full thing.

lfs is very cpu intensive. download a program called prime95 and run a few torture tests in that while keeping an eye on cpu temp.

Quote from Gunn :

Indeed you can defend, but FIA also says, don't swerve on a straight. Changing line is not the same as jumping in front of an overtaking car.

Does it really? Excellent. I had a hand in rewriting some of the rules for our league recently, this was a point of contention - trying to maintain the 'move to maintain defensive position' ability, but not allowing any swerve blocking.

you just don't have low enough tyre pressure, or your compound is too hard, Rappa.