Quote from Rooble :

Over inflated tyres can also heat up just as quick as those with less pressure!

Only if you start to spin them like mad because of poor throttle control... not going to happen on the combo in question

how would traction control work if it judged it on wheel speed? There would be no comparison element - think of it as comparing driven and non driven wheel speed in this case.

Quote from Rappa Z :

Fe black rev in a FO8, i haven't done it, but it's bound to be hell flying into the fe club chicane.

I just finished a league round at fe black in the fo8 and thought it was a brilliant track for it... you're right that that chicane in reverse would be nasty though.

Never thought south city was too hard in any car. Fe green is a wild track for certain vehicles - fwd gtr's particularly. Westhill is pretty tricky, especially in the fast road cars.

pump the tyres as high as they can go, run as much camber as you can without the insides getting over about 100-105 degrees after 10 laps. r2's setup like that, pushing very hard, last for approximately 50.1 laps around westhill in the forwards direction

k.david - how do rollbars help?

lfs has saved me money - I stopped taking my real car for as many mountain drives and track days. Also probably made me less likely to crash as I don't feel the same urge to push the limit out in reality as I used to.

Last edited by Blowtus, Tue, 13 Feb 2007 13:35.

Depends on the combo - but generally I think a setup that is comfortable to drive and can be pushed hard is very important for everyone, but further tweaking for outright speed is only useful for those with the outright speed in the first place.

Cheers Tweaker. Find my set faster and a little easier to drive though damnit! Fairly compliant and low damping rates pretty much removes the problem of oversteer when clipping kerbs (as in the first left turn after the fe green chicane, or the fast sweeper after the wall) but still gets unsettled when hitting the chicanes with the weight transfer a little off. As expected, I'm just trying to be fussy, like usual. Hopefully I get down to the quick times you were talking
Neither higher or lower front end as opposed to rear seemed to help with the chicanes at all.

Quote from Mr.Ferret :

Damn blowy thought you would know this lol!!

Why would you want less grip anyway? them Fern Bay black curbs too hard on the frail ole Fo8? :P

Hehe, I thought rather than stuff around testing I'd get a few responses to try... I have my own ideas of course
I don't want less grip, I want less front end grip when I smash over the huge chicane kerbs, so it just understeers out of it rather than spinning.


Tweaker - fo8 on fern black. I know too much power locking will cause issues too, not going any lower than 40% that it's currently at, though it would make the bumps easier. So far I've found absorbent works better most of the time, but occasionally it just seems to get caught the wrong way... I thought a lower and stiffer front end would help, but maybe I should have tried lower and stiffer rear instead.

It's fun to post isn't it.

Anyone know the best way to reduce front end traction over large bumps, more so than rear end? Without substantially affecting the balance of the car otherwise?

Quote from pasibrzuch :

I forgot about this. When you have low pressure in one tyre you can clearly feel it just in normal cruising or braking. Car goes to left or right. It's because that one tyre is slowing down in one side hardly enough to change direction of car. In LFS all four tyres may have 3 times less pressure and it will not slow you any little bit. I think now you know why I'm shouting all the time.

Take the fox for a drive on westhill with moderate pressures, then crank them up and see how much faster you go.

Quote from pasibrzuch :

With flatened tyres you have same acceleration as guy with tyres pumped to 3bars

No you don't. There are a number of cars where signifigantly quicker times could be achieved if there were no upper limit to tyre pressure.

nice. hopefully someone fixes the useless ffb and then I might play the game...

Quote from greygoose0076 :

i generally only use the locked diff option, but have noticed that the "Locked Diff" dosent really mean locked.
sometimes when braking, one of the rear wheels will lock up, and the other one wont. or in a fwd car one front wheel will lock up but the other one wont.

wtf man.

how much torque is "locked" anyway.

err, got a replay? 'Locked' isn't torque dependent, it's locked. If LFS behaved as you described it would be rather broken...

Last edited by Blowtus, Fri, 26 Jan 2007 23:24.

you reckon they could ban sensationalist forum topic titles while they're at it?

woohoo.

Quote from Tweaker :

I am pretty sure it does if you try in large amounts.

Changing tyre pressure in large amounts is hardly a step I would take in the fine tuning stages of vehicle setup. Will throw temperature and acceleration out the door.

Quote from Tweaker :

I'd first try adjusting the front camber to a lower value by at least 0.3 to 0.5, and then adjust tire pressures (you'd lower the psi on the front, and raise it on the rear). Wouldn't even touch ARB.

Camber on the front was already at a level optimum for low speed grip and manageable temp wise. reducing it further would reduce outright corner speed and not make full use of the tyres. Adding camber to the rear would mean the insides get too hot. Adding pressure to compensate for this would change the low speed balance again, and reduce traction out of the low speed corners.

Your examples other than camber are wrong, in my experience. Lowering tyre pressure down a few psi doesn't give you more low speed grip and less high speed. Tyre pressure is also critical for temperature and speed. There is a point where you can adjust camber for either better low or better high speed, but if you set it for high speed you destroy tyres much quicker. Throwing differentials, anti-roll, and and toe settings in is quite laughable, all have a similar effect at all speeds.

I found myself in a situation at Aston North, with the fo8, where I was trying to tweak the balance for the loosest (thus fastest, and best cornering) setup I could handle. I had my tyres set at a level where they worked well for the low speed sections and didn't overheat. 1 click of downforce either way was a massive change to vehicle handling. High speed cornering a touch loose, low speed cornering not loose enough. What would you suggest? half or a quarter degree of downforce on the rear, and a little more rear anti roll, would have been the perfect, simple, logical solution.

People can still adjust it in 1 degree increments if they want to! Having smaller changes possible doesn't suddenly make it harder to work out the effect of a change.

Tweaker, you entirely miss the point. I don't know why you are at such pains to do so. Downforce affects vehicles in a specific way. Other settings can be combined to achieve a very similar feel to a change in downforce, but this is less accurate, more prone to affecting other areas unintentionally, and entirely unnecessary. Can you name any other areas of adjustment that affect high speed turning more than low speed?

4998... fun, but could be better designed I reckon

Yes... sometimes good results take more work, it's a frustrating world isn't it...

I find 'exercise' too dull. So I rockclimb and dirtbike. Keeps my body healthy, and also tends to trivialise a few of lifes more petty concerns...

Quote from tristancliffe :

Who cares. Whats the point of being perfectly healthy but miserable, when you can be 5lbs overweight and enjoy your lunch!!! Don't let anyone downside to a normal Twix either!

Does constantly fulfilling short term desires necessarily equate to best long term happyness? Scientific studies of Buddhist monks say no