Well, strictly speaking no - it's not sufficient overlap. You should be 'fully' alongside by the apex is my understanding. Ofcourse you wouldn't see a racer get penaliseed for an incident like this.
But in simple terms of blame, which is what is being asked here I believe, driver B was more at fault than driver A.
It is worth the money. I had a MOMO before and the feedback on the G25 is far more refined. Reckon it improved my car control and may have even made me slightly faster.
Nightmare - G25? I wonder if they've come down in price yet. I must say they seem rock solid. Mine still feels like new and it must have done 20 - 30k miles.
It's at Blackwood GP reverse (a classic configuration in my opinion - T1 is a lot like Paddock Hill at Brands) and it's on Sunday 18th November (next Sunday) at 20:00GMT (UK Local Time)
It's a pretty old joke and in fact it's been done to death now. I'm starting to get very tired of it. It's especially annoying when it happens in a thread which is part of the Gentlefoot Challenge subforum. What exactly would you expect me to write in this section??
Maybe I will start following people around adding pointless comments too. Oh no, that's right - I remember - I do have a life.
You can also enter all the gentlefoot.com events by clicking here. Add a comment that you would like to enter the next race and which car you will be driving.
Next one - Sunday 18th November - 20:00 UK Local Time (20:00GMT)
It's the final GFC race of the season on 18th November. There won't be another GFC race after that until 6th January 08.
I am now accepting entries for season 2. The final race of this season is a great opportunity for those joining next season to get some experience of the dual class system.
You can enter all the gentlefoot.com events by clicking here. Add a comment that you would like to enter the next race and which car you will be driving.
There are 32 places on the grid in total. The average grid size so far this season has been 22.5 cars. This leaves almost 10 places for new faces wanting to participate.
We have drivers of all speeds and experiences and welcome anyone who wants to race cleanly and fairly
Interesting figures on that LX8. I guess this must have an ali V8 lump cos the weight distribution is almost 50/50. I would have thought with 300kgs of cast iron v8 engine up front it would be quite different.
Also torque figures seem low in comparison to power for this type of engine. I wonder what engine it is based on.
I've driven a car with seats like that. When you have your harness on and you look left or right all you see is the seat's built in head protection. Nightmare on the road.
Still, doesn't matter that much in LFS - seems most people don't bother with look left/right anyway hehe
I guess by this logic (that all cars should have rollcages) then all cars should have plumbed in fire extinguishers, timing struts, FIA approved seats and harnesses and the MRT should be banned for not having enough ground clearance.
I am going to produce an article on how I go about setting up my cars. In the meantime here are some of the things I do.
First I try a few different sets (inferno or maybe one you know is good on another track) and pick the one that feels the best and produces the most consistent times.
Watch the WR hotlap and click 'Test Drive'. Try it and see if it feels better than yours. It probably will so you need to try and recreate the feeling.
Think about how your set behaves differently to the WR set. Is it less stable under braking, over bumps or does it understeer more mid corner?
Then use the basic rules set out in the guides to adjust the settings to try and recreate the feeling.
Use the damper settings to adjust the balance in transition i.e. corner entry and exit. Use the ARBs and springs to adjust the balance in static state - i.e. mid corner under part or full throttle.
Once you have the balance about right at corner entry, mid and exit then you now need to re-adjust the camber angles to get the max from the tyres.
Do this by watching the WR lap. Slow the replay down to a quarter speed. Take a note of the tyre temps at the start of the lap. At the end of the lap repeat the process. You should have two sets of tyre temps each with 4 tyres and 3 temps for each tyre - inside, middle and outside.
Do a test run with your setup. Do the same number of laps as the WR. If the WR was set on lap 2 then do two laps and save the replay.
Watch the replay and note down all the tyre temps at the start and end of the lap again. Compare the tyre temps from your setup to that of the WR setup.
If your front tyre temps are hotter on the inside than the outside by a greater amount then the WR set then you need less camber and vice-versa.
If the tyre temps are hotter right across the surface then you need more air pressure and vice-versa.
Try and get all the tyre temps so they are as close as possible to the WR.
You may then find that if you have got more grip from, say the front tyres (relative to the rears) by changing cambers then you might need to adjust the suspension balance slightly again. This is an iterative process.
Don't forget about the brake balance - very important. If the car won't turn in when braking then try adding more rear brake. If the car snap oversteers while braking then try more front brake.