My temps are pretty much identical to yours when on 2GHz stock clock. Only my idle is slightly lower. Mind you, I don't even use the Core Center to control CPU fan speeds now. I have an Asetek Vapochill Micro High End fan with an external speed control, so it is just constant at 2500rpm.
oh right, well thats fairly obvious
GTRs have never had a interior made for them anyway, it is just a straight copy from the road going version.remember they are still road going cars, so i doubt people would strip their interiors all the time. caterhams are pretty sparse anyway!
@bobvanvliet: its Eric who does the cars.
@bobvanvliet: its Eric who does the cars.
I think roll cage including the diagonal roof struts on LX6 as it is the more powerful, but keep the LX4 as it is now just without the tyre.
i suppose it maybe suits some cars/tracks better than others?
tbh, i used viscous @ BL1R and found it alot better, then i found clutch pack to be better at FE.
tbh, i used viscous @ BL1R and found it alot better, then i found clutch pack to be better at FE.
just recently i tried a viscous diff on the LX4, it was pretty sweet tbh. i thought it felt best between 16-20Nm on most tracks. maybe give that a try? imo it handles really well like that. pretty stable into turns, but having really smooth modulation while in the turn as well as being able to take hairpins well by allowing some rear slides. no problems under power either as long as you are smooth.
id like to hear what some of you setup gurus think of the viscous differential as nobody seems to use it, but i think it was pretty sweet on the LX4 at least. i know its not as customisable, but imo it was pretty flexible anyway to give good control.
Although it makes it very easy to differentiate between LX4 and LX6, i must say i agree that it looks a bit silly.
Especially as it bascially just looks as though its floating there. Also, when the number plate gets bashed it clips through wheel and looks cack!
It would be nice to see the LX models tweaked, but imo they are pretty much OK as it is. If the tyre were to be removed, then some other distinguihing feature could be added just to help. I would recommend adding two more bars to the existing roll over bars on the LX6, to make it look more like other 'more racey' caterham type cars.
I particularly like the roll over bars in the second picture, although this type of roll over bar configuration might be reserved for the LX8 if it ever makes an appearance.
Like in these pictures
1. http://www.halling.org.uk/Pics/CCCB/Caterhamback.jpg
2. http://www.ianhardy.net/albums ... lton_a_e_f_g/IR0E2086.jpg
Especially as it bascially just looks as though its floating there. Also, when the number plate gets bashed it clips through wheel and looks cack!
It would be nice to see the LX models tweaked, but imo they are pretty much OK as it is. If the tyre were to be removed, then some other distinguihing feature could be added just to help. I would recommend adding two more bars to the existing roll over bars on the LX6, to make it look more like other 'more racey' caterham type cars.
I particularly like the roll over bars in the second picture, although this type of roll over bar configuration might be reserved for the LX8 if it ever makes an appearance.
Like in these pictures
1. http://www.halling.org.uk/Pics/CCCB/Caterhamback.jpg
2. http://www.ianhardy.net/albums ... lton_a_e_f_g/IR0E2086.jpg
if you are still learning, dont try going fast, just try being in control.
you are alot less likely to spin if you take it easy and try and be as smooth as possible. smoothness is obviously the key here, so this is tricky with keys.
as you are a demo racer, and in beginners forum, i am assuming you are relatively new to the game so much of your problems will likely be resolved over time and practice. you are basically climbing the learning curve, LFS can take quite a bit of getting used to.
like i said, brake earlier, try not to lock the brakes, then turn in as smoothly as possible. to help this you could maybe reduce brake force to stop lock ups, and also reduce the steering angle of your setup so that your turns are not as harsh.
however, if you have any analogue devices, try using them for steering.
you are alot less likely to spin if you take it easy and try and be as smooth as possible. smoothness is obviously the key here, so this is tricky with keys.
as you are a demo racer, and in beginners forum, i am assuming you are relatively new to the game so much of your problems will likely be resolved over time and practice. you are basically climbing the learning curve, LFS can take quite a bit of getting used to.
like i said, brake earlier, try not to lock the brakes, then turn in as smoothly as possible. to help this you could maybe reduce brake force to stop lock ups, and also reduce the steering angle of your setup so that your turns are not as harsh.
however, if you have any analogue devices, try using them for steering.
Athlon 64 3000+ Newcastle core @2Ghz (not OC).
I dont know if the Core Center that comes with these chips alters anything on the fly, but voltage core, FSB and other gubbins can be tweaked manually using Core Center. I just leave them be as my MB doesnt lock out the RAM and AGP, so i leave my CPU standard.
I dont know if the Core Center that comes with these chips alters anything on the fly, but voltage core, FSB and other gubbins can be tweaked manually using Core Center. I just leave them be as my MB doesnt lock out the RAM and AGP, so i leave my CPU standard.
Doesn't matter J.B.
I applied that registry fix from the link Noccy provided, so thanks Noccy
All works perfect now, yay!
I applied that registry fix from the link Noccy provided, so thanks Noccy
All works perfect now, yay!
yeah thats right. and i would expect locked diffs to make the cars 'skip' more under power.
thanks.
i might try the registry edit. im pretty sure its not my PSU though, its a decent 350watt Antec one (iirc).
could this be anything to do with it?
http://www.tgdaily.com/2006/02 ... atch_for_power_drain_bug/
one of people in the threads linked to that story has the exact same problem as myself. although it primarily mentions laptops, it seems as though it is XP in general. i look forward to a patch
http://www.tgdaily.com/2006/02 ... atch_for_power_drain_bug/
one of people in the threads linked to that story has the exact same problem as myself. although it primarily mentions laptops, it seems as though it is XP in general. i look forward to a patch
Last edited by mrbogeyman, .
you might also want to add that the locked diffs in LFS are also a bit iffy, as in they shouldnt really be easy to use. i think?
i drove the FZ5 with locked diff the other day, and didnt realise what i had been missing, it makes it so much easier to drive, without any mojor handling issues tbh. IRL surely it would be a pig and cook tyres?
thanks for the clarification bob. could you clarify whats wrong with the diffs in LFS atm? especially being able to use the locked diff? is it basically just because the tyres dont have enough grip (or too much slip) that the inside can easily turn at the same rate as the outside wheel?
i drove the FZ5 with locked diff the other day, and didnt realise what i had been missing, it makes it so much easier to drive, without any mojor handling issues tbh. IRL surely it would be a pig and cook tyres?
thanks for the clarification bob. could you clarify whats wrong with the diffs in LFS atm? especially being able to use the locked diff? is it basically just because the tyres dont have enough grip (or too much slip) that the inside can easily turn at the same rate as the outside wheel?
Last edited by mrbogeyman, .
IIRC there is a recent thread about the best FFb settings for LFS in which i also posted.
but here are the settings you should have for LFS specifically.
as said before, LFS generates its own forces, so you can turn off things like the centering spring and damping force in windows. the only force setting i use on my wheel other than those in LFS (@ 50%), is to have the standard FFB level at about 25-50% in windows. this basically just makes sure that the FFB is on.
tbh, i dont think i can comment on the understeer side of LFS as i haven't tested any of the cars enough to check. one thing i can say is that i always know when i am understeering, but off the top of my head i dont know why maybe it is the ffb which i pick up subconciously, or maybe i just react to whats on screen...i just cant remember :P
but imo, at least the oversteer feeling is correct but this is often dependant on the wheel. i think my Momo spoils it slightly as it has some constant resistance which negates the feeling of the wheel going light.
but here are the settings you should have for LFS specifically.
as said before, LFS generates its own forces, so you can turn off things like the centering spring and damping force in windows. the only force setting i use on my wheel other than those in LFS (@ 50%), is to have the standard FFB level at about 25-50% in windows. this basically just makes sure that the FFB is on.
tbh, i dont think i can comment on the understeer side of LFS as i haven't tested any of the cars enough to check. one thing i can say is that i always know when i am understeering, but off the top of my head i dont know why
maybe it is the ffb which i pick up subconciously, or maybe i just react to whats on screen...i just cant remember :Pbut imo, at least the oversteer feeling is correct but this is often dependant on the wheel. i think my Momo spoils it slightly as it has some constant resistance which negates the feeling of the wheel going light.
Last edited by mrbogeyman, .
well, im not a car wizzard, so i will explain it in the terms that i understand.
If you have 60% (Power) and 50% (Coast) Clutch pack, Then when accelerating (power) out of a corner you differential will be 60% locked, meaning that 40% of the power could dissipated by the wheel with the least grip (inside). This is easiest to explain when you are close to an open diff, which allows all the power to travel through the path of least resistance, i.e. the unloaded tyre. This means that the loaded tyre is very unlikely to skid/slip as very little of the power will be tranismitted to it. So, increase that upto 60% lock, and 60% of the power should be transmitted into the loaded wheel, giving it more power and a greater chance of skidding/slip.
The difference between power/coast from what i understand is that power works under throttle, and coast locking comes into effect when coasting (no throttle). Try experimenting. Try a locked differential and you will see it is hard to turn in, but is stable, but when you give it gas there is a large chance you will spin up both wheels and drift.
Generally, more locking on Power (60-80%), this will allow the car to get more power down, with a greater chance of spinning both the rear wheels but also in LFS giving a little bit of slide and often helping turn-in. Less locking on power (0-30%) will allow you do drive like a hooligan out of the corners without much chance of sliding as the power will be dissipated through the least loaded (inside) wheel.
As for more locking on Coast (50-80%) this will make the car more stable into the turn, but harder to turn right in as the car is having to twist(?) more. If you have a very low locking on coast, then the car will often step out alot easier under braking and will turn in easily.
Hope thats clear, that is how i understand it.
If you have 60% (Power) and 50% (Coast) Clutch pack, Then when accelerating (power) out of a corner you differential will be 60% locked, meaning that 40% of the power could dissipated by the wheel with the least grip (inside). This is easiest to explain when you are close to an open diff, which allows all the power to travel through the path of least resistance, i.e. the unloaded tyre. This means that the loaded tyre is very unlikely to skid/slip as very little of the power will be tranismitted to it. So, increase that upto 60% lock, and 60% of the power should be transmitted into the loaded wheel, giving it more power and a greater chance of skidding/slip.
The difference between power/coast from what i understand is that power works under throttle, and coast locking comes into effect when coasting (no throttle). Try experimenting. Try a locked differential and you will see it is hard to turn in, but is stable, but when you give it gas there is a large chance you will spin up both wheels and drift.
Generally, more locking on Power (60-80%), this will allow the car to get more power down, with a greater chance of spinning both the rear wheels but also in LFS giving a little bit of slide and often helping turn-in. Less locking on power (0-30%) will allow you do drive like a hooligan out of the corners without much chance of sliding as the power will be dissipated through the least loaded (inside) wheel.
As for more locking on Coast (50-80%) this will make the car more stable into the turn, but harder to turn right in as the car is having to twist(?) more. If you have a very low locking on coast, then the car will often step out alot easier under braking and will turn in easily.
Hope thats clear, that is how i understand it.
@Faster111
I see your town has been censored...
hehe
I see your town has been censored...
heheI thought you would know better XCNuse. Threads like this are absolute garbage and a waste of space.
I agree with Griv, the devs are busy and dont have time to reply to pointless arguments about what is happening.
This should be locked before it becomes yet another annoying thread that goes round in circles.
:iagree:
organised races always provide the best competition.
Do your team mates not provide close and clean racing?
I can sypathise with your reasoning here though. If i had to search for a server of my liking, only to find it was half full of people who havent quite grasped the concept of clean racing, I would also get very frustrated.
I suppose one of the main reasons LFS has such longevity for me is the fact that I can pretty much always goto one of our team servers and at least have control over what goes on.
Take last night for example, there was alot of good racing with Tristan, Clownpaint, Fordy and quite a few others at the front of the pack on our team server. But there was still alot of noobs on. I know these people need to learn, and until it proves a problem we can all race togther. However, even these races can turn messy unfortunately.
The reason I am surprised that you get frustrated is that I thought you would get clean races with your team mates. This is guaranteed for myself and our team every Friday when we have private practice/races, often with invited guests. e.g. last friday we had TBO4 at FE Gold, and there were no accidents at all during the 1st lap
and ive got the replay to prove it. I suppose it is all down to being able to race with people you can trust, and those people knowing that races arent won on lap1.I suggest trying to get your team more active and organising events, or at least joining someone else's event.
Last edited by mrbogeyman, .
well, dont think it needs an update really.
dSRC had a 1hour race there in TBO4 last night, and tbh is doesnt seem dated or anything compared to the other LFS tracks. Sure there are the usuall GFX glitches like tears and some floating walls etc, but generally I think it looks fine.
IMO fern bay doesnt need to be fancy at all, it is a club track and therefore should retain a slightly rough feel to it. The corners and kerbs are spot on in Fern Bay to make it an exciting challenge, I would hate for it to be tweaked significantly.
If anything, the little glitches need fixed, but that is it.
dSRC had a 1hour race there in TBO4 last night, and tbh is doesnt seem dated or anything compared to the other LFS tracks. Sure there are the usuall GFX glitches like tears and some floating walls etc, but generally I think it looks fine.
IMO fern bay doesnt need to be fancy at all, it is a club track and therefore should retain a slightly rough feel to it. The corners and kerbs are spot on in Fern Bay to make it an exciting challenge, I would hate for it to be tweaked significantly.
If anything, the little glitches need fixed, but that is it.
i think it is exaggerated by low AA/AF levels. i noticed it when i put new GFX drivers in, and thus LFS had no AF or AA setup. FE is definately the worst for it, but it is greatly reduced by higher AA/AF levels imo.
i think it is either AA or AF in particular, but i canny mind
im on a GF6800 on 8xAA and 16xAF
i think it is either AA or AF in particular, but i canny mind
im on a GF6800 on 8xAA and 16xAF
I think im easily guilty of that too
Largest single race so far has been 1hour , but usually that is preceeded with a sprint race or something.
our dSRC team nights usually last at least 2-3 hours
well, like i said chaps...i am being pedantic here! 
and i know 37C is perfectly ok.
but like Gunn says, a sudden jump like this is quite strange and a bit annoying.
btw, MB is MSI KT800 just incase. ill have a look to see if there are any known issues.
ive caught the bug, i blame [dSRC] Gener_Al and his watercooling! my 120mm fans are more than a match........bah!
and i know 37C is perfectly ok.
but like Gunn says, a sudden jump like this is quite strange and a bit annoying.
btw, MB is MSI KT800 just incase. ill have a look to see if there are any known issues.
ive caught the bug, i blame [dSRC] Gener_Al and his watercooling! my 120mm fans are more than a match........bah!
Last edited by mrbogeyman, .
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG