Don't get too excited all - it may never happen.
Many of the teams are pressuring the FIA drop the idea. Williams have in fact just invested 10s of thousands of £S into a hi tec tyre warming equipment which allows them to set up the temps easier.
Many of the teams are pressuring the FIA drop the idea. Williams have in fact just invested 10s of thousands of £S into a hi tec tyre warming equipment which allows them to set up the temps easier.
I run the same cambers for a short run as I would for a long race. I do find however that R1s work better with a touch more neg camber than R2s.
When the tyres go through the hot patch you have to amend your driving style to manage the temps for a few laps in order to maintain some reasonable level of grip. You can also set the front rear temp balance so that when they go through the hot stage you will suffer from understeer or oversteer depending on if the fronts get hotter than the rears or not.
Still about 10 slots left on the GFC grid and about 4 slots left on the GTTC grid if anyone wants to join us this coming Sunday.
F08 class has picked up again now following the introduction of the overall Team Championship. Many teams have realised they can net more points by fielding two drivers in FOX and another 2 in F08 class.
A number of FOX drivers will switch at the start of the next season too.
Don't forget it's bank holiday this weekend. I know there are a hell of a lot of good events on. RallyX at Lydden, A1GP at Brands maybe if I remember right. Need to check the Calendar hehe
That's not strictly true.
Those of us who compete in longer races know that R2s can be just as fast as R1s when they have done 20 odd laps and they start to wear thin and cool. And the last few laps before they pop, say after an hours worth of running, they generate huge amounts of grip and very little scrub.
Road tyres behave in a similar way after they begin to wear thin.
Ofcourse this only works if you have run aggressive pressures that meant the tyres got very hot between say 5 and 10 laps. This means they don't get too cold when they wear thin.
Just to illustrate, I have set some of my PBs on R2s in the FOX after 30 odd laps. You just have to get through that hot stage the tyres go through in their lifecycle.
Rev limits are lower too so you need taller, closer gears. Power band is narrower.
Anyone up for some more racing again tonight? Server is set for qualifying now but when we get a few of us on we can switch it to racing. Say about 9ish again?
Server is Gentlefoot.com#1 and it's now set to Aston Grand Touring which is the next race on the GFC/GTTC calendar.
Nice, fast and flowing, quite a contrast to FE Black Rev but no less frustrating hehe
Server is Gentlefoot.com#1 and it's now set to Aston Grand Touring which is the next race on the GFC/GTTC calendar.
Nice, fast and flowing, quite a contrast to FE Black Rev but no less frustrating hehe
yep - always record in 640X480 or at the biggest 800X600. My machine is half decent still but any res bigger than this and it starts to struggle. Not the graphics card, memory or processor. It's the disk I/O that causes the problem. The write rate simply cannot keep up with the amount of data generated by FRAPS when using the larger screen resolutions.
Can anyone get anywhere near Storm Racing??
Its a general guideline and testing is the only way to find the correct camber angles for maximum grip but yeah, I find this kind of heat distribution works pretty well on slicks, grooved and road tyres.
You only learn by getting in there and having a go. Reasonable people accept that mistakes are made sometimes.
You missed my point mate
What I'm saying is that it is not the racing game that is the cause of people taking risks on the road. Instead it is the nature of the people playing racing games and taking risks on the road.
I guess to put it another way you could say that people who take risks on the road are more likely to buy an S2 licence.
It's the cause/effect that I was on about
hehe all r welcome. And I'm sure you'll be fine - there will be a mix of GFC and general random public racers on I expect.
Should be another good turnout again tonight by the sound of it
See ya all in 4 hours.
See ya all in 4 hours.
Kinda stupid research if you ask me.
Is it a surprise that drivers who are likely to take risks on the road are the same drivers who are likely to play a racing simulator game? I could have told them that without spending millions on research
Is it a surprise that drivers who are likely to take risks on the road are the same drivers who are likely to play a racing simulator game? I could have told them that without spending millions on research
The nutter rank includes every single combo. Then there are the individual car ranks too.
Yeah but the time difference means it'll be in the afternoon for you. But there is always a few of us about any evening or weekend.
You just happened upon a very bad server. Not all of them are like that.
Come along to the gentlefoot server on Saturday. We can give you sets so you can get a feel for how the FOX should respond. Also we can give you some tips on lines and stuff. It will be very useful for you to watch some of the GFC guys lapping.
I can make some changes to the set too for you, tell you what I did and you can feel the differences.
I can make some changes to the set too for you, tell you what I did and you can feel the differences.
Have you looked in the system/application event logs?
Was a great laugh again last night - thanks all. We do it again tonight 21:00 again if you fancy it
btw - I'll probably switch to FO8 next season and I think a few others might too.
btw - I'll probably switch to FO8 next season and I think a few others might too.
I don't set things up in any particular order. I just change settings that 'feel' incorrect as I am driving. I am only able to do this because making setups has been my passion in LFS for over 3 years now.
It takes a long time to learn how setup adjustments change the feel of the car. Best thing to do is just to start lapping. When you can lap consistenly (to within 1 or 2 tenths at each split time) then you can start making small adjustments and feeling the effect of those changes. Over time you build up experience as to what has what effect. There are no shortcuts.
And no matter how good you are at understanding the dynamics of setup, you will still have to do say 100 laps of a circuit if you want to make a set of any quality.
A lot of the time I think people mistakenly believe that you can learn setup skills by reading simple rules and guidance. It doesn't work like that. Experience is the only thing that counts.
When I test drive, I ask myself these things:
Does the car react slowly or quickly?
If the car is too 'squirrely' you may need to run a generally softer set.
Is the car generally oversteery or understeery?
Oversteery? u need softer rear/harder front or less power diff lock/more coast lock.
Is the car oversteery or understeery over bumps?
Oversteery? u need more front damping or less rear damping
Is the car oversteery or understeery at corner entry?
Oversteery? u need more front bump damping (or more rear rebound but to a lesser extent) or less rear brake or more coast lock.
Is the car oversteery or understeery at corner exit?
Oversteery? u need less rear bump damping or less rear rollbar or more front rollbar or less power diff lock.
When the suspension is fully loaded i.e. mid corner, is the car oversteery or understeery?
Oversteery? u need more front ARB and less rear ARB
Ofcourse if the answer to any of these questions is 'understeery' then just make the opposite change.
Tyres? Simple, make sure the temps are as well balanced as they can be from front to back if you intend to do long runs with the set (less important on quali sets)
Also, The inside edge of the tyre should be 10-15 degrees above the optimum temp, middle should be 5-10 degrees above optimum and outside edge I find works best when about 5 degrees below optimum. If you want more inside edge temperature increase the amount of negative camber. I always leave tyre setup until the end when I am happy with the suspension and aero balance. Ofcourse that doesn't mean I won't change some suspension settings and then need to go back and amend the tyre pressures and cambers.
If you are completely lost and don't know what you are aiming for then why not 'Test Drive' the WR hotlap setup and simply try and make your car feel the same. This has been very successful for me in the past.
These are some general guidelines but as I said before, you need to be able to have driven enough and to have made enough setup changes to know all this stuff for yourself.
Oh, and as far as aero is concerned I generally try and use as little rear downforce as I can get away with. Rear downforce promotes understeer which always equals slower times.
As I mentioned before 46% front aero is about as aggressive as you can go and to achieve that the downside is that you need a lot of front suspension stiffness which can then result in understeer in slow corners where the wings are not having an effect.
That brings me on nicely to another important point. Aero settings have a greater affect in high speed corners and almost no affect at all below about 50mph. Suspension settings will affect all speeds of corner however a high aero setup can mask problems with the suspension settings which will become more apparent in low speed corners.
Hope this helps. If you need more advice then come visit gentlefoot.com#1 one weekend. There are always a few of the GFC boys about to help you.
It takes a long time to learn how setup adjustments change the feel of the car. Best thing to do is just to start lapping. When you can lap consistenly (to within 1 or 2 tenths at each split time) then you can start making small adjustments and feeling the effect of those changes. Over time you build up experience as to what has what effect. There are no shortcuts.
And no matter how good you are at understanding the dynamics of setup, you will still have to do say 100 laps of a circuit if you want to make a set of any quality.
A lot of the time I think people mistakenly believe that you can learn setup skills by reading simple rules and guidance. It doesn't work like that. Experience is the only thing that counts.
When I test drive, I ask myself these things:
Does the car react slowly or quickly?
If the car is too 'squirrely' you may need to run a generally softer set.
Is the car generally oversteery or understeery?
Oversteery? u need softer rear/harder front or less power diff lock/more coast lock.
Is the car oversteery or understeery over bumps?
Oversteery? u need more front damping or less rear damping
Is the car oversteery or understeery at corner entry?
Oversteery? u need more front bump damping (or more rear rebound but to a lesser extent) or less rear brake or more coast lock.
Is the car oversteery or understeery at corner exit?
Oversteery? u need less rear bump damping or less rear rollbar or more front rollbar or less power diff lock.
When the suspension is fully loaded i.e. mid corner, is the car oversteery or understeery?
Oversteery? u need more front ARB and less rear ARB
Ofcourse if the answer to any of these questions is 'understeery' then just make the opposite change.
Tyres? Simple, make sure the temps are as well balanced as they can be from front to back if you intend to do long runs with the set (less important on quali sets)
Also, The inside edge of the tyre should be 10-15 degrees above the optimum temp, middle should be 5-10 degrees above optimum and outside edge I find works best when about 5 degrees below optimum. If you want more inside edge temperature increase the amount of negative camber. I always leave tyre setup until the end when I am happy with the suspension and aero balance. Ofcourse that doesn't mean I won't change some suspension settings and then need to go back and amend the tyre pressures and cambers.
If you are completely lost and don't know what you are aiming for then why not 'Test Drive' the WR hotlap setup and simply try and make your car feel the same. This has been very successful for me in the past.
These are some general guidelines but as I said before, you need to be able to have driven enough and to have made enough setup changes to know all this stuff for yourself.
Oh, and as far as aero is concerned I generally try and use as little rear downforce as I can get away with. Rear downforce promotes understeer which always equals slower times.
As I mentioned before 46% front aero is about as aggressive as you can go and to achieve that the downside is that you need a lot of front suspension stiffness which can then result in understeer in slow corners where the wings are not having an effect.
That brings me on nicely to another important point. Aero settings have a greater affect in high speed corners and almost no affect at all below about 50mph. Suspension settings will affect all speeds of corner however a high aero setup can mask problems with the suspension settings which will become more apparent in low speed corners.
Hope this helps. If you need more advice then come visit gentlefoot.com#1 one weekend. There are always a few of the GFC boys about to help you.
Last edited by Gentlefoot, .
FO8 Drivers Wanted
The GFC is currently looking for new talent to compete in this well established, clean racing league. In particular we are looking to expand the field of FO8 drivers at each race.
Please consider joining us. See www.gentlefoot.com for more information.
Please consider joining us. See www.gentlefoot.com for more information.
I find with the FOX that any more than a 46% front aero balance and it becomes very hard to set up the suspension to give good balance.
Most of my FOX sets are between about 3 degrees front/4 degrees back for low downforce circuits like Aston Historic and about 9 degrees front/13 degrees rear is about as much downforce as I ever need for somewhere like Fern Bay Black.
To understand what downforce I need I tend to watch the WR lap and output the lap data. I then output my own lap data and compare the acceleration, split times and top speeds using F1 Perf View. From this you can see very easily if you have more or less downforce than the WR holder.
Most of my FOX sets are between about 3 degrees front/4 degrees back for low downforce circuits like Aston Historic and about 9 degrees front/13 degrees rear is about as much downforce as I ever need for somewhere like Fern Bay Black.
To understand what downforce I need I tend to watch the WR lap and output the lap data. I then output my own lap data and compare the acceleration, split times and top speeds using F1 Perf View. From this you can see very easily if you have more or less downforce than the WR holder.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG