You are clicking "lock" in LFS axis/ff screen after you calabrate everthing right?

Did you have to load a driver to get the wheel working when you first used it? or did it just plug & play with windows drivers?

What model and make of wheel/pedals is it? oh and whats your OS?

Do you have any other controllers also plugged into the same PC?

If you lock everything in LFS options it should not "unlock" unless you;

1. close lfs then restart it.
2. lose power or USB connection to your wheel

could it be possible that one of the wires to/from the wheel might be damaged? sometimes the internal cores become damaged with overtwisted or constantly yanked cables, I've noticed this is a very common problem with laptop chargers

Good luck

SD.

A good tip would be to have calabrated your wheel and pedals, before you line up next to everyone on the grid

Also if you flat shift and dont lift the throttle between shifts, deoending on the car your in you can overheat the clutch very quickly, in LFS atm the clutch even when set on axis, is only really a simple switch

SD.

I will probably start with one of these 64Gb will be plenty for now, I picked up a WD velociraptor couple of years back, as my system drive, and did notice lower boot times etc.

I think SSD are about to jump in performance with another generation round the corner, maybe one day they will become cheap enough and large enough to realistically replace the HDD properly

SD.

ftr, I am using panda AV with no probs and firewall settings on default W7 64beta build 7100, I can post hw specs too if anyones interested.

SD.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Thu 16 Jul 2009, 22:36.

Interesting reading this thread, however when I shift F4 to windowed and back I dont get any change in FPS at all

It has been said before LFS relies heavy on the CPU for high fps with big grids, but newer CPUs will always out perform older ones even at the same clock speeds, because when the jumps in die sizes happen, they don't just shrink the chip, they completely redisign it, trying to make it more efficent each time. Even a intel quad (lets say 2.0Ghz) with 3 cores dissabled will outperform a P4 2.0Ghz in every situation.

This is also why you can't compare AMD with Intel by clock speeds alone.

Excellent system upgrade Avih nice to see you can run at higher gfx settings now

SD.

Blinkdude you need to seperate the axis in the controller screen in windows control panel/game controllers/G25 properties/settings (you can also acess this from the profiller)
Then in LFS make them seperate there too, in lfs/ options/controllers/ axis/ff like in the pic posted by Amp88 above.

You have loaded the drivers for the G25?
do you have the Wingman profiller icon in the taskbar near the clock?

Good luck.

SD.

Great news you got LFS running again

As for your slowing HDD I think its normal as the drive fills up for it to be a little slower, Im not sure tho.
I would strongly reccomend backing up on a regular basis, unbelivably I just had 2 drives die on me this week, and one was my backup drive! its at data recovery atm
I am about to order my first SSD I think it will be more reliable but you can never tell

SD.

You could try a system restore, to a few days ago and try it again, could you have had a power blip in the time your were away form the pc? possibly corrupting something that was in use?

Try running the dxdiag tests it might throw up a problem.

Right click the LFS.exe and try Run as admin?

open cfg file with notepad and changed the start windowed from 0 to 1(or other way round)

GFX card drivers up to latest version?

just a few things to try.

Goodluck

SD.

Sounds like an unstable system to me...

Try running your CPU at stock speed, does LFS run ok @ stock?

Have you peformed a soak benchmark test? (like prime95 100% load all cores for 24hrs solid)

Do you have other 3D games or benchmarks? do they all run fine?

New system or have you had it ages?

Good luck

SD.

If you think that was bad, wait until you drive on the SR server

I have always tried to respect the unoficial " 2 wheels on track" rule and intentional cutting is something that really grinds my gears, LFS has shortcut marshals that will spectate (or warn) anyone who really cuts a corner but this dosen't seem to pickup properly even when the cutting looks huge they get away with it.

On past, points based, tiered servers, layouts have been used sucessfully to help with this prob.

I personally don't think its acceptable driving this way, the same as I feel about bumpdrafting, however it seems to me the majority of "players" feel its ok to do both.

SD.

ALUCARD, What brand of DDR2 are you using? I only ask because I have seen alot of issues with the asus maximus and rampage boards not running stable at high RAM FSB.
I had an similar problem running quality 1066mhz rated DDR2, turned it down to 800Mhz and all ran fine, (IIRC they fixed it with a bios update (I'm not completely sure)) If it is your system and not LFS, I would expect any other fullscreen 3D game/demo to be unstable also, so its well worth checking, you might want to try orthos or prime95 to test how stable your PC is.

Did you build it yourself?

Good luck.

SD.

Hi LFS working fine here (Win7 x64 beta7100) I do have an ATI card tho, I would check your device manager to check that 7 installed the correct motherboard drivers for your laptop.

You could try deleting your card_cgf file to force LFS to make a new one.

Are you running the latest version of LFS (Z0.5)?

Do you get any problems show up if you run dxdiag?

Good luck.

SD.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Mon 13 Jul 2009, 15:34.

If you corner the same way with mud on the tyres, as you would normally do with clean tyres, some grip is lost, due to the mud, if you dont knock off some extra speed then the tyres slip more and heat is produced by this slipping, its quite easy to come off the track because alot of mud reduces grip by a high factor.

if you drive in a straight line like BL1 straight, no extra heat is produced, and the mud comes off slowly down the straight, but I dont think the tyres cool down any quicker with or without mud on them.

Try it at the end of BL1 straight with F9 display up, run your left wheels on the grass for a couple hundred meters before the right turn, then see how this changes the way you have to attack the turn.

This is all in LFS tho maybe different in other games or irl

SD.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Sun 12 Jul 2009, 10:45.

Quote from lizardfolk :

on the oval? At your expense? NO WAY If i can help the person in front of be pass the guy faster and...better yet, get me to go along with him you can bet I'll do it.

Are we talking about bumpdrafting only at the oval? seems if we are then thats ok as special rules seem to go hand in hand with oval racing.

Thread title just said bumpdrafting, video posted was BL1, maybe Im reading the post as I see them, but it seems to me that bumpdrafting is becoming the "norm" at most servers in most cars.

even this thread is giving new users the impression that bumping a car infront is acceptable, and I don't think on a "normal non-oval" race track that it is.

SD.

Quote from rsnake53 :

I should post a replay of someone bumping me in a turn at Atlanta right as he/I lagged...

I don't understand how some people can't see the fact that you can't pass a person if they are side by side with another. In a situation like that, it's best to bump one ahead (preferably the one you predict will be faster) then follow them through and make a pass on him later.

Or you could bump one enough to make them decide to pass a car ahead of him, then use that to go the other direction and pass both in their confusion.

I've seen both pan out very well.

Is it not best to let them have a battle and not to ram either of them??

I just dont get how some people cant see the fact you shouldnt contact other cars!!! especially when they are in a battle for position

SD.

Hi again, your co-driver looks a bit of a dog

OK back to your annoying pedal issue, Ive done some searching around and found some old lfs forum posts from 2005, with the exact same R220 Digital problems and reports of "its all fixed" but no info
A wider search brought me to this thread (check the last post) and then I re-watched your 2 fab videos, it looks to me like your running windows XP is that right? if so is it XP64? or just the standard 32bit XP?, also did you just plug & play this wheel? or did you install the specific drivers for the R220 for your flavor OS?( if not there available here) I have a really good feeling that you could have a fully analog pedal set soon Cougar dont give up just yet

Good luck

SD.

Have a look at this thread its a R220 problem but sounds similar (gas pedals acting like a switch) some good advice in there, If you find a solution please post it

SD.

You may use a forum avatar now

have you been through all the icons and submenus at lfsworld?

Tristan normally lets us all drive his F3 car in rotation, I think its my turn next week Ill have to buy another junior hacksaw

SD.

This is indeed a tricky one
as Jason has said if both pedasl are detected properly (analog) in windows controller config the they should be detected in the same way by LFS.

are you running a profiler or saitek device manager? any macro programs or hotkey apps, Im thinking the raw inputs are ok but something is changing the Y axis into digital, its interesting that you have so many Y axis in your video and the brk is on a unique axis RZ and works ok, this is why I suggested unplugging the other controllers. You know it could be the drivers for your other controllers (flight yolks? joypads?) auto load when you start windows and this then "overrides" the correct Y imputs.

If you wanted to test you could set up another windows user account and just plug in the wheel alone and load the wheel drivers, and fire up a fresh LFS, with the most common wheels you will see the name of the controller in that axis/ff screen top right, if it says Saitek R220 wheel you know you have cracked it and it should then work.

Dont give up its probably a small issue even if you have to "mess about" reinstalling drivers for an evening, it will make for many more hours of driving on the edge with full car control

Keep us posted we don't like to have a problem unsolved

SD.

Well after seeing that 2nd video, theres nothing wrong with your pedals but you already knew that

Could you try restarting your PC with just your wheel & pedals plugged in (no other controllers) then run LFS and do a reconfig all the yellow bars in use should go all the way not just half way.
if that dosn't work try deleting all the .CON files except default.CON in your data/misc folder, then restart LFS and reconfigure wheel.

Another thing is to try clicking combined pedal axis in LFS controllers screen but I think seperate "should" be ok.

Is your directX up to date? check with start/run type dxdiag and press return.

Im sure we will get this sorted soon

SD.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Mon 6 Jul 2009, 07:59.

Quote from cougar7005 :

just tried that, the brake pedal slider bar now goes all the way instead of stopping halfway but the throttle stays either on off

Hi again

That youtube video was great so easy to see whats happning
It looked like you only have a small amount of movement on the gas pedal is that right? it should travel through the same distance as the brake one does, was that you or is it like that?

If that is all the movement you have then I think something has moved or broken inside the pedals (or possibly a break in the internal cores of the cable) its very easy to get a small screwdriver and take the pedals apart carefully remembering (or photographing) how it all comes apart to make it easy to reassemble, I suspect the pot (potentiometer) has come out of its seating in the surrounding plastic depending on how its made you may be able to repair with little fuss and only a couple hours work tops I have repaired alot of this kind of thing bit fiddely but not too hard.

don't attempt to take it apart unless your confidant you can reassemble as you might be left with completely broken pedals I accept no responsibilty

If it was purchased new less than 12 months ago, take it back for replacement, the old "not fit for purpose" line never fails

If the gas works smoothly in your windows controllers config then it must be a setting, post another vid of that if its the case.

Good luck

SD.

EDIT: do you have any other controllers plugged in also? this might be confusing the driver software.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Sun 5 Jul 2009, 20:05.

Something not quite right if your not getting the same pedal input ingame as in the control panel.

Can you post a screen grab (ctrl+S ingame, bmps saved in data/shots) of the controllers axis screen the one below so we can have a look, maybe its just a setting as Jason said already

SD.

Cougar, are both pedals are acting like switches? if they are analog you might be able to calibrate them to have more "range" as someone has said above try calibrating them ingame (options/controllers/ "axis/ff" then click recalibrate push pedals a couple of times to their limits turn wheel lock to lock. then click "lock" you might want to set remove deadzones to yes, but its not essential, then as I posted above make the pedal bars visible in lfs to test the amount of usable pedal.

If they are digital switches, look for a new wheel

SD.

Ahhh its the one that looks like a laptop power adaptor, with a lead that comes from your wall socket.
EDIT it plugs in just next to where the pedals plug in

SD.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Sat 4 Jul 2009, 19:21.

unplug/ uninstall your gamepad,

then re-plug in the G25s USB again, do you see the yellow bars moving when you press each pedal?

Goodluck.

SD.

Last edited by SparkyDave, Sat 4 Jul 2009, 18:51.