pit spotter makes close racing so much better. only one I wouldn't want to go without.
what should they put on the webpage well?
I'm hugely in favour of anything which gets these damn cars balanced. Find it fairly disappointing that the fxo has *always* been faster. Almost seems as if Scavier has an idea about what the cars specs should be to be balanced given perfect physics, and is unwilling to compromise on this for less than perfect physics...
fantastic stuff, love the way the interface is being streamlined. One suggestion I have along these lines is to remove the exit confirmation once you click to exit LFS - it's pointless. Doesn't exactly take a long time to reload LFS if someone does click it by accident.
I use hotlaps for my practice, and if I beat or come close to a wr I will upload. If I end up beating or getting close to it in whatever race I'm practicing for I'll sometimes go back and set a hotlap.
it makes me sick that this thread was born.
the point of a simulator is it's an accessible way to develop and use skills that 'could' be put to use in real life - if you want realism, buy a race car!
you may not be aware, but we're talking about the game, "live for speed" here 
Titanium, none of what you appear to be suggesting relies on having strong enough brakes to lock the wheels in a straight line though... which was the original point I think 
yes - less camber means that when the car starts to slide, and body roll is reduced, the contact patch / tyre load, becomes more even. If you were to have camber set so even load is achieved under max cornering load, as you go past max load (and start to slip) the contact patch becomes worse, reducing grip further.
This is most effective on the driven wheels.
Gentlefoot is probably correct regarding slip angle and soft tyres, but I usually find higher pressure tyres brake traction much more smoothly, at least in the road cars. Reducing the wallow of the tyre just makes it skip around more predictably, for me.
This is most effective on the driven wheels.
Gentlefoot is probably correct regarding slip angle and soft tyres, but I usually find higher pressure tyres brake traction much more smoothly, at least in the road cars. Reducing the wallow of the tyre just makes it skip around more predictably, for me.
big -1 from me. The 'view new posts' button would become useless to me...
it sounds good. Though, if I was going to concoct a fake movie to get you all excited, I'd use very short snippets to save myself too much work 
Here's hoping...
Here's hoping...
the onset of boost is determined by the amount of air flowing into the engine - the airflow doesn't change if your throttle doesn't change, the speed just drops off
in situations where boost is developing, (more open throttle positions) you'll get more boost (below any sort of max limit) for a given rpm uphill, because it has more time to build.
in situations where boost is developing, (more open throttle positions) you'll get more boost (below any sort of max limit) for a given rpm uphill, because it has more time to build.
would anyone really be silly enough to think they wouldn't be found out?
I thought it was kinda funny...
I thought it was kinda funny...
yes - that was my point too Smaller resolutions create far bigger jaggies than higher resolutions. antialiasing would be unnecessary given a high enough res. Games look better to me at 1280x960 with no antialias, than they do at 640x480 with everything cranked. There is certainly room for compromise, I agree - I just don't think it's as straightforward as your previously bias'd examples show. Even without antialiasing, if you scale that 1600x1200 down to 160x120, it will look much nicer, because you can't see enough detail for it to look bad
Smaller resolutions create far bigger jaggies than higher resolutions. antialiasing would be unnecessary given a high enough res. Games look better to me at 1280x960 with no antialias, than they do at 640x480 with everything cranked. There is certainly room for compromise, I agree - I just don't think it's as straightforward as your previously bias'd examples show. Even without antialiasing, if you scale that 1600x1200 down to 160x120, it will look much nicer, because you can't see enough detail for it to look bad Interesting post - your sim makes nice noises and seems to respond well
I'm all for realism. Sometimes though compromises need to be made, if tyre degradation such as I described is not easily modelled, perhaps a tyre that responds more violently to temperature change is a suitable compromise, from the drivers perspective? Of course I doubt we'll ever know the motivation behind each and every bit of physics in LFS
I'm all for realism. Sometimes though compromises need to be made, if tyre degradation such as I described is not easily modelled, perhaps a tyre that responds more violently to temperature change is a suitable compromise, from the drivers perspective? Of course I doubt we'll ever know the motivation behind each and every bit of physics in LFS
glyphon, examples like that make no sense as they are not the same visual size
This was on a 15 year old sportscar, I dunno if they bother to recommend for those, but they were certainly not 'sports' tyres. You're right that I didn't notice much change in grip until the tread blocks peeled off. I've never noticed any change in grip on road tyres except from cold to warm to destroyed - but then I also have no idea just how hot I've got real 'sports' tyres. It does seem that even my proper 'sports' tyres, when treated in a similar fashion, were heading down the path of destruction without noticeably losing grip. spots of what looked liked blistering, chunks out of side tread, etc.
Sure. I was more responding to your argument (or at least, what I thought it was
) that more accurate physics would be beuseful for drifters in terms of tyre life...
Todd - I appreciate your depth of theoretical understanding on these subjects, but I honestly think you're off track on this one. Perhaps the current implementation of temperature vs grip is totally wrong - this doesn't mean a more realistic tyre degradation model would be 'useful' for drifters. I have no temperature data from my experiences, but I do know it didn't take many laps at fairly moderate slide angles / power output, to completely destroy a set of harder compound street tyres - to the point where I had to stop or trash the guards on my car.
the yellow line is the only one that uses the whole track. the red line starts from the inside, and the blue line misses the first apex.
but as others have said - it depends.
As for FE green - over the course of a recent race there in the ufr I generally clipped the first curb, but the fastest laps were generally getting the turn in hard enough so that only the 2nd curb was clipped. That's mainly because they're so goddamn big though
but as others have said - it depends.
As for FE green - over the course of a recent race there in the ufr I generally clipped the first curb, but the fastest laps were generally getting the turn in hard enough so that only the 2nd curb was clipped. That's mainly because they're so goddamn big though
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I like assymetric setups. My ideal for a race set is one that is setup optimally for the 'main' side, and then setup so that the less used side responds the same way, albeit with slightly different overall grip. Ie, if you have mild oversteer on turn in on your main side, you want the minor side to do the same, over the course of the race. sometimes this may involve dramatically different pressures and cambers. Try to avoid the temptation to set each side up to heat to optimum temperature - if you're only doing one or two turns a lap on the minor side, it's likely that a little less grip through turns there is more than made up for by running a more realistic tyre pressure and getting better acceleration / top speed.
you sure about that compound stuff Woz? When I stuck 'standard' tyres on the back of my rx7, they were falling apart after about 5 laps (40 seconds in a basic sportscar) of sillyness. They didn't 'wear out' from the heat, the hard rubber just chunked very, very badly and got torn apart. Softer, sportier tyres, last far, far longer in the same circumstances.
left foot braking with the throttle applied is available as a directional control technique even with the brakes set to 'normal' levels. I think it's much more likely the 'friend' originally in question was just wrong
20 below optimum, I believe.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG